Conference 7.286::golf

    My brother-in-law let me borrow a set of clubs when I got
    started 3 years ago and I have decided to refinish the woods
    before returning them. I have already scraped off the old
    grips and removed the old frayed windings but I have a real
    problem with the soleplate on the 3-wood. There is a broken
    screw that is snapped off below the level of the wood and I
    don't know how to remove it without further damaging the
    clubhead. Also, how about removing the old stain on the heads?
    The inserts are also pretty thrashed as I tend to really hit
    the ball hard. There is sentimental value attached to the clubs
    or I wouldn't bother (just put new heads on). They are made
    from persimmon not laminated. Any info will be appreciated !!
    
    THE MAD HACKER

    
    You can buy a screw extractor kit at almost any hardware store.  You
    will also need a power drill to drill a small hole down the center of
    the broken screw.  Basically a screw extractor looks like a wood screw
    with left handed threads, and a very steep pitch to the threads.  you 
    insert the extractor into the hole in the screw, and start turning the
    it left, once the extractor reaches the bottom of the hole you drilled,
    or it gets tight enough to bite into whats left of the screw, the screw
    will back out.  Make sure that the hole you drill isn't large enough to
    damage the treads of the original hole.
    
    Steve Souza
      

    
    RE: .1
    
    THE MAD HACKER,
    
    Unless you have all the necessary tools, stains, poly, whipping, inserts,
    know-how, you would be much better off in the long run to take them to
    a repair shop to have them done. Refinishing and repair of a damaged
    wood head isn't something to just jump into and expect to get good
    results from (unfortunately). Just to give you some kind of idea of
    what it will cost, from your description it will cost $30+ each...
    
    Just my thoughts
    Gene

    If the clubs are really special, I agree with Gene.  Consider sending
    them to Golfsmiths or Golfworks.  It will be well worth the price.
    
    Rick

    Just to reinforce what Gene said:
    
    If you drill out a broken screw in a soleplate there are somethings to
    remember.  The screw is epoxied in place so you'll need a tourch and
    a screw heater.  You'll need to remove the soleplate to do the  insert
    work,  When sanding a clubhead it's real easy to change the shape of
    the head so you MUST BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL.  When you put a new screw
    in a soleplate it must be filed to the correct radius without damaging
    the soleplate. etc, etc ,etc.............
    
    In other words if you want to learn how to do these things go buy some
    junk clubs at a flea market.  DO NOT start out on something you want
    to keep.  Trust me I know these things.
    
    
    
    					KO

    		---<WHEREEEE'SSSPRRRINGG!!!!>---
    
    I agree with most of the replers to your note. If your not good with
    tools and haven't worked with someone else who is good on repairing 
    clubs, have the clubs repair by a pro. 
    
    I have tried to repair woods with some of the problems that you
    discussed and the results were very poor.  
    
    Most major golf areas have alot of discount golf stores that do 
    club refinishing and repair. With spring coming many run sales 
    on refinishing clubs at reduced prices and reduced prices on 
    other repairs (insert replacement). 
    
    Shop around for the best price with good quality workmenship (ask
    the store to look at their finished work) and have your woods 
    refinished with new inserts. You can redo the grips and the windings 
    yourself before you bring in the clubs and save a few dollars on
    repairs (see if you can get a Golfworks Catalog from a noter to
    help you order the right articles).
    
    If you still want to do your own work, practice on some old grubby
    woods first. 
    
    If you do the work first on the set that you want to return and your 
    not happy with the results.  If take to a pro or discount shop; 
    you'll pay plenty to get the back to normal condition.
    
    
    Happy Holidays and Club Fixen !!!
    
    
    Ron Hadac
     
    
    
    
    save a few dollars 
    

    I am sure that Gene K will be able to fix the club(s).
    Try him.... you will like him.
    

    	I started fooling around with clubs as a hobby years ago and i cant
    tell you how many clubs a trashed before i got it right. I had the good
    luck of being trained by an old timer who really knows his stuff. he
    gave me many old woods to play with so i can say i lucked out by not
    working on my own clubs. My advice is spend the money abd have it done
    by a pro or club-maker. 
    							ARMANDO
    

    I'm doing some re-gripping these days.  Just finished a set for
    a buddy of mine last night.  I was just wondering, which way do
    some of you more experienced repair people recommend putting on
    the double sided tape - two strips down the length of the shaft
    or wrapped around?
    
    Also, any tips for removing the old tape/glue?  I scrape as much
    as I can with my knife, then use a wire brush on the grinding wheel.
    To get the glue off, I use WD-40.  I then wipe down the shaft real
    good and scruff up with some emory cloth.  This seems to work pretty
    good but it takes some time to do.
    
    Any better ideas??
    
    A Novice
    
    Len

    
    RE: .9
    
    Len,
    
    The easiest way to put grips on is to use 2 inch tape not the 3/4 inch.
    Then you just lay one strip and it covers the entire area.
    
    As for getting the old tape off... Sometimes it just peels right off
    (Pings usually do) and then some times it is a REAL BEAR...! Scrape
    most of it off and then a solvent with generally get the rest off...
    
    Enjoy
    Gene

    Gene is sure right about the 2 inch tape! It is really a snap to
    apply. I have been scraping off some old molded rubber grips
    (you know, the red ones!) and it is really a chore but I have
    my brother-in-laws old irons regripped and now just need to get
    the woods back from the shop and he will be really surprised.
    It has been a lot of fun sprucing up those old clubs that he let
    me use when I got started. Maybe he will even start playing again!!!!
    
    THE MAD HACKER

    
    Mad Hacker,
    
    Just curious, what is the shop charging you to refinish your woods?
    
    Thanks
    Gene

    Gene, MH, thanks for your input.  As soon as I use up the 1/2" tape
    I have, probably in '95, I'll pick up some 2".
    
    Gene, more on the solvent.  Any particular kind? brand name?  
    
    MH, I know what you mean about those 'red rubber grips'.  They can
    be killers to get off.
    
    Len

    
    Len,
    
    Solvent sold by any of the club suppliers, Golfsmith, Golfworks,
    Dynacraft, etc... is good... Some people use gasoline or lighter
    fluid, but I don't like this idea and it smells to much for me...
    
    Gene

    Gene, the golf shop is charging me $24 for the driver and a couple
    of bucks more for the 3-wood because of having to extract that 
    broken screw from the sole. I regripped the clubs myself so all
    they are doing are the heads. I checked around the area and it
    seemed to be the going price. Probably could have sent them to
    the Golfsmith for a little less but then would have had shipping
    charges and a longer wait so probably works out the same. Am I
    being ripped off or does this sound pretty reasonable??
    
    MAD HACKER

    Oh by the way, they were able to use the inserts so I didn't
    have to pay  for new ones.
    
    MAD HACKER

    
    MAD HACKER,
    
    No that is about the going price around here also...
    
    Hope you like how them come out. I would like to hear your thoughts on
    them when you get them back...
    
    Gene

    Question folks...
    
    I've put a couple of sets of irons together and have swingweight
    questions.  If you take, say, DTR head copies and shaft them with
    a matched set of shafts and grips, how close to consistent singweight
    throughout the set will you be?  I don't have a swingweight scale
    so I can't answer my own curiosity.  I've used Dynamic Gold s400's
    on beryllium Dunlop Red Max irons, Apollo MK-II Torsion Matched on
    a set of Accu-flite (Titleist DTR copies), Apollo Spectre's on a set 
    of Lady Tour heads, and just started Apollo Shadows on BioEdge heads
    (Hogan Edge copies... sorry not forged... just forged "feel"...*sure*).
    
    Obviously Advantage Golf in Ohio is having a heck of a sale!
    
    Rick 

    
    Rick,
    
    If you are going to make clubs a swingweight scale is a must. You 
    may find that the clubs will vary as much as 3, 4 or even more swingweight
    points...!
    
    Sounds like you have been bitten by the bug real bad...!
    
    Gene

    I'm in trouble if I need to adjust the swingweight now!!  
    
    Pick the most correct answer or NONE AT ALL...
    
    (note all ideas ad weight in the hosel, and all require bringing
    the lightest to match the heaviest.)
    
    a.  I pull the shafts and add lead powder or pellets bringing them to
        the same weight.
    
    b.  I push BB's through the hole on the grip (after dipping in epoxy).
    
    c.  I pull the grips and do like a.
    
    d.  I take up indoor tennis.
    
    e.  I do nothing... It's OK.
    
    f.  None of the above.
    
    
    How DO I do it right in the first place?  Assume I have a scale.
    
    Rick

    
    Rick,
    
    
    	The correct answer is...
    
    
    
    
    
    		Z...
    
    
    
    
    
    
    		Pull the grips and add the weight down the shaft followed
    		by a cork with expoxy on it...
    	
    
    		To do it correct initially you assemble the head and shaft
    		then put the partially assembled club on the scale, with the
    		grip you are going install on it, taped to the shaft at the
    		butt end.... Then add weight to desired swingweight then
    		the expoxied cork and ram it down the shaft. They also have
    		premade weights of various weights that can just be epoxied
    		into the tip end of the shaft prior to assembling the head.
    
    		Bottom line, buy a scale and one of the club assembling
    		books from one of the distributors... 
    
    		I hat to say it Rick but, without getting the correct
    		methods for complete assembling of clubs you are going
    		to waste a lot of time and money...!!!!
    
    		Gene
    		

    O.K. Scolded again.....

    I got it now.  Found the solvent in the Golfsmith Catalogue.
    
    Thanks again, Gene.
    
    Len

    Most folks down here in the south generally use the 2 " tape and a
    small can of lighter fluid.  Put the tape on the shaft, squirt a little
    lighter fluid on the tape, squirt some lighter fluid into the new grip
    (blocking the hold at the bottom with a finger), shake it up a little,
    pour it out and then slide on the grip.  You have about 15 seconds to
    position the grip correctly.
    
    On your next regripping, the tape will simply peel off.
    
    Hit 'em straight,
    
    Mark
    

    An 8-penny common nail is ideal for plugging the hole in the end of the
    grip while you squirt solvent into it and slosh it around.  Then pull
    the nail out and let the solvent drain out of the hole onto the tape.
    Squirt more solvent on the tape if you need to to get it good and wet.
    Use some kind of tray to collect the excess solvent.

    
    RE: .25
    
    Paul,
    
    Good old golf tees work great also...!
    
    Gene
    

    RE: 25
    
    And a painting roller tray to catch solvent.
    
    The pro at our club uses Kerosene for solvent.  I use paint thinner.
    
    Rick

    Question on finishing woods;  if I'm dipping the head in stain,
    can I cover the face insert with vaseline or tape to protect it,
    or do I need to use the product, Face Sealer?  Does Face Sealer
    wipe off or is it permanent? 
    
    Len

    
    Len,
    
    I will assume that you have sanded/filed the face (doing a complete
    refinished job). One of the best things to use is some old poly to
    cover the face. You want to be VERY careful to outline the face 
    exactly. This poly will then be sanded off after teh stain has dried
    and before you apply the poly coates...
    
    Gene

    Thanks, Gene.  I assume I can outline the face with masking tape
    and then apply the polyurethane.
    
    Len

    
    Len,
    
    From your responce it sounds like you are planning to use spray poly...
    I am sure that will work, but I was referring to the use of poly and
    a brush. In any case you can certainly outline the face with tape...
    
    Gene

    uhhhhhhhhh......
    
    If you outline the face with tape and DIP it in stain, there is a good
    chance that the face will get stain on it also.  The recommended
    procedure (trust me on this one) is to brush on poly in the area that
    you DO NOT want stain.  (ie the face and insert)  Then dip the head,
    let it dry for several hours, apply the filler, remove excess and let
    that dry overnight.  Then file or lightly sand (filing is recommended)
    the poly off the face and detail the face.  Then buff the soleplate
    and apply the sealer.  Let that dry overnight and start applying the
    poly coats.  Tape, even soleplate tape may not prevent the stain
    from penetrating the face.  It is most difficult to remove stain from
    the face without doing damage face characteristics of the club.
    
    Also something that I've learned is to allow more drying time for each
    step than the manufacturers recommendations.  Chances are that the
    temperature and humidity are not what should be.  As long as these are
    reasonable (say not less than 60�F and 45% RH) everything will be
    alright if you allow enough drying time.
    
    
    						KO

    
    Kevin,
    
    I took it that what Len was saying is that he was going to outline the
    face with tape so that when he applies the poly to the face (to prevent
    the stain from getting on the face) he will be able to apply the poly
    to only the area that he wants and not get it on any of the areas
    to be stained. Then take the tape off before appling the stain...
    
    Gene

    That's right, Gene.  But what do you mean, KO, when you say "detail
    the face?"
    
    Len

    RE: Gene,
    
    	 I just read it wrong... didn't mean to run off at the fingers.  I
    was thinking about my first experience about 10 years ago following the
    directions from Golf Day products and really having problems trying to 
    recover it.  They recommended taping the face before applying the
    stain.  (Never did get that driver back into play)
    
    Len,
    
    On detailing what I mean:
    
    	After the stain and the filler dry you remove the old poly from the
    face.  Then you run a stiff piece of metal(I have a special detailing
    knife)  around the outside of the face area to make a sharp contrast
    between the face and the stain.  If you don't do this the stain will
    look fuzzy where it meets the unstained face. To see what I mean go to
    a store where they carry top name clubs and look at the finish on the
    wood heads.  You should notice this contrast.  When you get your club
    ready for the primer coat you should see what I mean about the stain
    looking fuzzy.  Hope this is clear.
    
    
    
    						KO

    Yes, that's clear.  It'll become clearer I suppose, once I begin
    the process.  Thanks a lot.  You guys have been a big help.  I'll
    let you know how they (I have a driver and a 3 wood to put together)
    come out when I'm done.
    
    Len