Conference napalm::musclecars

    
    	Why not?
    
    	In the process of roadizing the monster OLDS again.  Engine
    	being restarted, (electrical fire caused by heavy handed,
    	'read clumsy' son), after wiring sorted out and starter
    	reinstalled.  Transmission is history and needs either
    	rebuild or replace.  Body work is complete and needs paint.
    	Looking for CHEAP, NON-RUSTED, back bumper for 1979 OLDS
    	Cutlass Supreme.  Inspection weenies will NOT pass the one
    	that is on there even though it makes current bumpers look
    	like plastic straws...
    
    	For interested parties:
    
    	1979 OLDS Cutlass Supreme - 1973 OLDS 350 Rocket with big
    	cam, bored .060" over, high capacity oil pump, rebored
    	crank journals, aluminum manifold with 750cfm Holley
    	double-pumper, headers, updated ignition, oversized
    	radiator, complete rebuild 10K ago.  Just broken in now
    	and ready for summer cruising.  Car had originally a
    	305 Chevy engine which passed away.  Still have original
    	rear end that is being babied as long a possible.  Car
    	has 144,500 miles on some parts and about 15K on all of
    	the important stuff, (front end, brakes, etc....)
    
    	Any OLDs lovers out there???
    
    	Bryan

    does anyone know how to identify the w-30 heads on the 1970-72 455
    engines?  also, is there a way to verify matching engine numbers for
    these years?  (like where is the engine serial number  pad?)
    
    

        Anyone know  if  Summit  Racing  supplies  parts  for an Olds
        403CID engine ?  They list practically everything else.  
        
        This is the stock motor in my 1979 Pontiac Trans Am.
        
        Matt

    
    	Question:
    
    		Request for long-distance trouble shooting/hints.
    
    	Problem:
    
    		After 3-4 miles, (@45 or so), of driving engine
    		shuts down.  Will restart immediately unless I
    		accidently flood it.  Will idle indefinately...
    		I have had the carb redone, (Holley), the timing
    		etc.. checked.  I have run out of cheap things
    		to try.  I heard that it could be a part of the
    		distributor that breaks down on GM products?
    
    	Any helpful hints would be greatly appreciated....
    
    	Bryan

    fuel pressure?  fuel pump going bad?

    
    	How can us amateurs check something like fuel pressure?  The
    	pump was new when the engine was rebuilt 10K ago and I have
    	been assuming it is ok....
    
    	Bryan

    dirt in:  ( pick one )  gas tank-blocking pick-up
                            fuel filter
                            fuel line

    Some vacuum gauges can also check pressure...in particular fuel pump
    pressure.
    
    If you have one check the directions...if you don't they are not that
    expensive and are really handy for tune-ups etc.
    
    /tb/

    
    	Quick check revealed dirty fuel filter which was replaced.
    	Fuel lines seem to be ok and when unhooked and engine
    	turned very briefly gas pumps out.  Like I said before
    	the engine will idle fine just won't take any rpm's at
    	all...
    
    	Is there any electrical problem which will cause the same
    	type of symptoms?
    
    	Bryan

    Does you gas tank have a vented cap or vents lines? If either is
    clogged the fuel pump could draw fine at idle, but as demand 
    increases the pump may not be able to draw as well due to no air
    being able to enter the tank. Try driving with the cap loose at
    the speeds you've been having the problem at. 

    Are you sure the Carb is set up properly?  Are the jets right float
    right etc.?
    
    It sounds to me as if there is a carb problem if the fuelk is getting
    there okay.
    
    You might also want to check out the coil.
    
    Don

    If float levels are correct at idle, and the pump is not delivering
    to spec, you should get RPM's out of it for a brief, then she'll
    drop off once the float bowls empty.
    A bad coil would prevent hi RPM revs. and would appear to be gas
    starved. How do the plugs look? Black would be ignition, white could be
    lean carb condition.
    
    Dave'
                                   

    To add to my reply re:-, what year is it? Electronic ignition? Any
    ignition mods? Any attempts to fix this cutout problem?
    
    Dave'
    

    
    
    	Well, turns out the problem was in the fuel system after all.
    	Replacement of every thing back to the fuel tank did NOTHING!
    	Finally a minor application of compressed air into the fuel
    	line solved it, (for now anyway).  My personal opinion is that
    	anything blocking the line is still in the tank and will come
    	back to haunt me anyway.
    
    	Otherwise we replace the double pumper with a 500cfm vacuum
    	advance 4bbl.  Much better response anyway as I think the
    	other carb was just too big.  NOW the #1 son announces that
    	he wants to sell his half to either me or anyone else and
    	is leaving to seek his fortune in the sin_infested_streets_
    	of_BOSTON!....  I offered him $1K for his half and believe
    	that I have him over a barrel with no room to negotiate...
    
    	"My plans" if the deal is accepted are to remove the TH400
    	for a complete rebuild, (it's tired and shifts "funny"),
    	and a shift kit, location and installation of another
    	rear end, (current one is toooo tall) and finally cover
    	up the primer that has been its color for the past couple
    	of years...
    
    	Then.....we shall see....too bad its so far down to NH for
    	some "legal" racing...
    
    	Bryan

    tell your son that $1000 isn't that much in that sinful city,
    especially the Naked i.

    Bryan,
    
          If you plan on rebuilding, you should look into a new TCI tranny.
    Cost is about the same , and I beleive they have Street/Strip versions.
    
    
    Art

    
    I have some questions of my own.
    
    My Brother-in-law and I just bought a 1965 Olds Cutlass Holiday,
    which will end up being a 442 lookalike.
    
    Well it has a 1967 425cu out of a Delta 88. I was wondering if a
    W-31 cam/lifters for a 1968 455cu would fit. Some precheck with
    some other motor heads and chiltons, I beleive it is a 39 degree bank.
    
    any help???
    
    
    Thanks,
    
    
    Art

    re. .16
    
    	Say some more.  I am not familiar with a "TCI TRANNY".  I 
    	have a rebuild price of <$550 quoted from two different
    	transmission rebuilders.  I did not try to get a quote on
    	a new one as I thought we would be in four digits to get
    	a new one...
    
    	Bryan

    
    Bryan,
    
          sorry it took so long to respond, been having troubles with the
    system. I don't know if this is too late but the TCI tranny for example
    a 400 turbo is going to run be $600. It will cost less obviously for
    the 350 th. Just call a competition shop and ask if they can get and
    tell them what you want. 
    
    Its pretty much a regular tranny w/ shift kit.
    
    Hope I wasn't to late.
    
    Art

    RE:17
    
    		I'm new to Notes so this may be too late but the OLD's
    	cam profile will fit in any olds block. You may have to watch
     	for the lifter set though. I'm not positive if the lifter
    	set from a 455 will fit in a 425. If you do use the set though
    	they MUST be placed back in the same position as before (ie intake
    	lifter cyl.1 to match that loeb on the cam etc.)if it was a used
    	cam/lifter set as it has now seated for that position. There is an
    	outlet called Mondello Performance who custom grinds cams/parts
    	for OLDSMOBILES ONLY. I have used one of his cams and they are far
    	superior to anything avail on the market. If your interested I can
    	send you a copy of the catalogue or the actual W-31 original cam
    	profile. If you go with that cam I would aleast get a new set of
    	lifters (Speed-pro for example.). Keep in mind the W-31 is old 
    	tech. thinking. The new Modello cams have LOTS of lift and less
    	timing to work very well at higher rpm's yet less timing gives
        better bottom-end. Not that a bigblock Olds needs more!
    
    					Jeff Scherf
    
     

    Sounds like you blew the fuel line backwards to the tank.  In this
    case, the inlet strainer was backflushed.  The dirt in the tank will in
    time, clog the strainer again.  The strainer is a slip fit on the end
    of the pick up tube.  I had no trouble with Olds and Buick parts guys
    but the Chevy parts manager tried to tell me I had to buy the whole
    unit, guage and strainer both.  I said, "but, but" and he put me down. 
    So I got another strainer from Olds and it fit on the Chevy with no 
    problem.  I had 3 cars konk out as you described, in one year.  I had
    drained a full tank on a car I was going to junk and put the fuel in
    each of the three cars.  What had happened was during the siphoning
    action fuel ran down the undercoating of the tank and I foolishly
    "saved" it by placing a bucket under the tank and caught the spill. 
    Well, examination of the strainer showed it was almost a solid black. 
    The tar based undercoating apparently did not 100% dissolve like sugar
    in hot water and got caught up on the fine mesh of the strainer.
    Naturally, not wanting to drop the tank to replace the strainer I tried
    all the fixes everyone has suggested but the real fix was the strainer
    in the tank