Conference hips::uk_audioo

    
    I think buying a system from scratch is really hard work. It's much
    easier when you've already got something that you can compare things
    with. There's just *so* many variables !
    
    I've just got a couple of suggestions. It might be a good idea to
    consider buying several components from one manufacturer. For example,
    I understand that Musical Fidelity equipment often works much better with
    other MF equipment. So, if you want an A1, you might be well advised to
    try MC-1s with it. With this approach, it's probably easier to find a
    well-matched set of components (but of course, you might overlook some
    other brilliant combinations). 
    
    You may have a problem with speakers that work well up near a wall (I
    know, having just been through the process of buying some). Of the ones
    you've listed, I would hazard a guess that it's mainly the small cheap
    ones that are designed to work next to a wall. I ended up buying some
    Royd speakers (full story to follow, I'm afraid), which are all
    designed to work right against a wall, but I only listened to the more
    expensive ones. 
    
    It's definitely worth going into a couple of dealers to see what they
    suggest. Reading Hi-Fi are the only proper dealer in Reading. There are
    good dealers in most of the suroounding towns as well (B'stoke, Oxford
    etc.).
    
    Trevor

    I'll offer my experience of some of the kit you mentioned.  My system
    comprises:
    
    Systemdek IIX/Linn Basik Plus/Linn K9
    Meridian 206 CD
    Musical Fidelity A1
    Musical Fidelity Reference 2
    
    I read that the MC1s aren't as good as the Ref 2s, I believe the 2s
    were canned due problems with the buying in of the drive units.  The A1
    and Ref 2 combo is really classy.  The A1 MM input has a slight bass
    boost compared to CD, I think the CD input is more "accurate".  Don't
    go for the A1 if you are a bass freak, it's good but it's not a disco
    amp.  For classical music the amp is unbeatable at the price (IMHO). 
    Don't worry about the 20 watts per channel unless you have a very large
    room and inefficient speakers, it does go loud.   
    
    The Systemdek IIX has been a pleasure to use, the sprung sub-chassis
    I'm sure helps if you have a less than ideal table to put it on.  When
    I moved to a proper turntable shelf the sound came alive.  A floor
    stand may work for you, depending of your floor.   The company used to
    call themselves Dunlop, nothing to do with tyres though.  They dropped
    the name as their products aren't "tyreing" at all!
    
    Now for the sales bit, I'm considering selling my Systemdek as my
    collection is mainly CD now.  Interested?  I'm based in Warrington but
    visit the deep south regularly.               

    
    A small amount of input on the cheaper speakers, I have the Warfedale
    505.2s (std) in my system with them about a foot from the rear wall and
    I really like them !! (understatement). I auditioned them against the
    Rogers LS2a, and the Warfedales were so much more alive. I found the 
    LS2a's a bit too polite by comparison although they were also good
    placed against the wall.
    
    Hope that's of some use.
    
    Dave Flanders

    
    I had a Philips CD850 (�400) on loan over the weekend, and quite liked
    it. It has an interesting array of useless gadgets, in addition to one
    or two useful ones.
    
    In comparison with my 3� year old CD360 (�250), there really wasn't a
    huge difference. The 850 was a little smoother, and a little more
    detailed, but really no electrifying difference - for me, not enough to
    justify upgrading to this level. I haven't heard the Arcam Alpha
    though, and that's supposed to be better than the Phillips.
    
    It would be interesting to compare the 850 with one of the 6x0 players
    to see if you think there's 200 pounds worth of difference. The problem
    I see with CD players is that anything you buy now is going to have a
    very low second hand value in 2-3 years, as the technology is
    developing so quickly.
    
    Trevor

How do you compare the CD850 to the CD840 ? What are the differences between
these 2 machines ?

I've sold my PCM II, for considerably more than I paid for it ;-) and am looking
for a good player to replace it, but with the focus primarily on the transport
as I propose the Meridian 203 DAC to partner it. Hence I'm not particularly
interested in the ARCAM Alpha.

Comments anyone ?

    
    As I understand it, the CD840 isn't sold any more. It was superseded by
    the 850 shortly after being released. The 850 has some changes, I think
    the most major is that it goes some way towards meeting new (proposed
    ?? ) RF emission regulations.
    
    Trevor

    RE:220.5

    Dave, 
    Perhaps the Kenwood DP1100SG could fit your bill perfectly.  It's
    amazingly well built and was said to be a brilliant transport
    mechanism.  It is from Kenwood's '88 range and was their flagship at
    �450, you can probably buy it real cheep now (<�260).

    The internal DAC sounds very nice to me, but I guess you're used to a
    very high standard, what with the LP12.

    It has 2 digital outputs, one optical and one not.  I did notice that
    if you switch on the digital output, the on-board DAC output lines of
    the player keep going, wonder why it doesn't get cut off?

    What is this meridian DAC based on?  What sort of input connections
    does it have?  And what would it do to one's wallet?

    Rob.

re: .-1

Thanks for the advice Rob, I'll follow that up...

The Meridian 203 is based around their PDM  bitstream technology and costs
500 pounds. It is essentially the electronice from the 208 in a separate box
(without the pre-amp). It takes either digital or optical output.

It has been reviewed extremely favourably, and seems to be a significant
upgrade to the Black Box II (which I've heard, it's OK but not staggering).

I've since upgraded my LP12/Ittok to LP12/Ekos, what a nice upgrade !

Still waiting for my Lingo...

    Dave,
    I got quite a good deal on the price, see note 190.  However, the shop
    is really a "box selling" operation, they are NOT really Hi-Fi dealers.
    
    Cheers,
    Rob.

Hi,
I've lived with a Rega 3 and Wharfedala Delta 30's for 2 years, 
(& a Rotel 820BX2 amp) the sound is neutral, and quite explicit,
although the systemdek probably sounds a tiny bit better, its also 1.5 
times the price(arm/cartridge inc.) and if I had my time again, I'd buy the 
same equipment, as it is very good sounds for pounds. If you know what I mean.
Chris.

    
    Hi All, 
    	  Can anyone advise on a 'cheap' place to pick up gold plated
    sockets for the back of my NAD amp?  I got plated plugs for the cables,
    but I guess I really need to replace the sockets also for maximum
    effect.
    
    Mikef

    
    Well... (I hate to admit it but...) I have seen gold plated chassis
    mount phono plugs in Tandy (gasp, shock-horror being seen in the place)
    and they cost about �1.70 a pair.
    
    Dave

If replacing input sockets is all you're doing, I suggest you forget it.  It
can be quite worthwhile to replace power and speaker wiring, along with nasty
speaker connectors, with more meaty alternatives.  It can also help to replace
long PCB traces on the inputs with decent coax - I find this reduces crosstalk
between inputs and makes things generally quieter.  I doubt you'd hear the
effect of going to gold-plated phono sockets; I reckon decent construction
quality is much more important than the plating.  But if you insist cheap ones
can be found in Maplin.

Nick

     The gold plating is to reduce tarnishing between the 2 surfaces.  If your 
     going to get another amp in the next few years, I wouldn't bother 
     changing the sockets.  
     
     The place for gold plated connections is only really within In-Car Audio 
     installations.  Where the environment is much prone to tarnishing 
     connections.
     
     Now there's an argument!
     
     Robbie.