Conference hips::uk_audioo

Hmm tricky one that.

I've got a similar problem, but as I have no money, my upgrade fever is
temporarily cured!!

I tried my REGA into a Linn Amp/ Linn Isobarik system, and whilst it sounded
a lot better than my system. It exposed the flaws in the record deck pretty
ruthlessly.

I reckon your Ritz Diamonds will perform well, even with a good amp. So I'd
be tempted to go for the amp first. Then, when you are better settled, go
for the Deck, and then finally the speakers.

Anyone want to shoot me down?

Mark.

1) Do nothing until you are settled!
2) In the meantime save for a new Sondek (All current mods, no wear, etc.)
3) When ready sell current turntable/arm ( to add to funds) privately. 
4) After Linn purchase change amp next and then speakers.
5) most all all before you buy... try. 

Not just at the shop but at home as well. Get the dealer to lend you
equipment for a week. Avoid the low interest finance, low price specials,
and pay full price. Good dealers will usually supply GOOD quality speaker
cable but nothing else material. If you don't cut the dealer margins you'll 
get the service and once you find a good dealer don't change.

Go for the pre-sales and post sales support.

Happy listening.
Dave 

    I concur with .2; your Rotel amp is perfectly adequate in that it will
    reveal the benefits of a Sondek, although perhaps not the "mega" arms
    and cartridges normally associated with the LP12 - these can come
    later. Take your Rotel to a dealer who can prove this for you. Don't
    ignore other turntables like the PT2, or Roksan Xerxes, although you
    may have trouble finding a dealer who can dem all 3. Also the LP12 is
    by far and away the most cost-effective source yet, but then I'm a
    hardened Linnie!
    
    You may get improvements by changing electronics first, but ultimately
    I believe you will be unhappy - I know, I've been there and it's
    expensive - as the improvements will not be the ones that give you more
    access to your records.
    
    Above all, listen before you part with any cash....
    
    Dave

    Hello,
    
    Thanks for the advice, nice to hear some different views.
    
    My problem is that I won't be settled for a while (a year and a
    half) and that the Hi-Fi will be moved about 3-5 times in this time,
    which was why I was lothe to spend the money on a Deck. Apparently
    Linn's don't travel well....
    
    Another problem was that, due to my financial resources, I have
    cash to spend now, that I won't have again as I am working now,
    but go back to being a student in 4.5 months time....My rationale
    was that if I got the Amplification sorted, then I need never worry
    about it again (well, for years anyway) 
    
    Juju
    xxxx
    

    re last:"Linn's don't travel well...."
    
    Latest model Linns travel fine, so long as you're careful and use the
    original packing. Mine's travelled the 80 miles return to/from York for
    upgrades, checkouts, etc. several times, just "naked" on car back seat. 
    I always remove the main platter, lock the suspension with a couple of
    bits of polystyrene under the inner platter, and lock the arm with a
    tiewrap, and it's been just fine. I do my own maintenance now, though.
    
    It all depends how far you'd be moving, and how, as well as how often.
    
    If you buy the electronics you suggest now, you could be disappointed.
    
    Dave

OK, the concensus seems to be the record player first. Having seen a friend of mine not
content with his Planar III through a more expensive Amp, I think there may be some
substance in Dave Sallitt's remarks.

Don't worry too much about travel, as Dave says, if you take the right precautios, then
you'll be OK.

Let us know what you decide to do!

Mark.

    Firstly, It's nice to see some disagreements...Proves that there
    is no right or wrong as such, just better and worse ways of going
    about things. I find Dave Sallitts remarks very fair, especially
    as I was considering a quality pre/power amp (see note 12.16). You
    will never make a salesman Dave.... 
    
    It does seem though from advice, that the deck is probably the way
    to go though, which brings a whole new set of issues, touched upon
    by some of the replys. Should I go for new or second hand.  The
    point is that I can get a relatively newish Sondek with a quality
    arm like the ittok for about �600 pounds round about, or a new axis
    or similar for about �400 . Alternatively, I could save a little
    longer and get somthing covered by guarantee, such as a Sondek and
    Akito. 
    
    Or are there any other options that you feel I ought be considering?
    
    Juju
    xxxx
    

    Ah well, a real salesman understands needs ;-)
    
    If you can find a Linn+Ittok with a history you know, buy used. If in
    doubt, go for a new LP12 with Aikito....after eliminating the other
    options like PT, Roksan, etc. Although the Linn may (or may not) travel
    better than either of these, if you have problems the Linn would far
    more easy to put right than the other two, as support is better and
    more widespread.
    
    The Aikito is a gem, *very* close to the LVII Ittok - the LVIII is
    better again, but costs. In my view, the Aikito outperforms the Naim
    ARO at 1/3 the price. An LP12+Aikito may be the last you ever need
    to buy.
    
    Have fun.
    
    Dave

    At danger of going down a rathole Dave, I would be interested to
    hear a little more of your opinions on arm choices, ect such as
    how does the akito compare to an rb300. I know someone who has one
    fitted to a sondek ( a little strange !) but after having had his
    suspension reset, says it sounds fine to him. Also the differences
    between the various ittoks and/or basik/akito's. 
    
    I have an old Basik w/detachable headshell. Is this far worse than
    an akito ? One friend says yes, one says no. Another Linn dealer
    I know, feels the akito is a waste of time and is not worth the
    extra over the cost of remaining stock basik's that he holds.
    
    Any opinions ?
    
    Juju
    xxxx
    

    There's about as many right answers to this as there are questions. The
    following represents my opinions based around what I've auditioned
    and/or owned.
    
    Firstly the old Basik; if you mean the "bent" LVIX, this was an
    OEM design bought in by Linn as something passable to put on the LP12
    until replaced by the LVX, the "straight" all-black arm. The LVX+ was
    the fixed-headshell version of the LVX. All of these arms became
    standards by which other budget models were judged, simply because they
    were relatively low-cost, were simple to install and set up, and they
    worked. They were all bought-in designs, and their performance was
    limited by the quality that Linn could remotely extract from the
    Japanese maker. Even so they were a hard act to follow. I owned an old
    Ariston RD80 with the old LVIX Basik; I replaced the Basik with a
    Syrinx LE1. Although more detailed and smooth at only slightly higher
    cost, the Syrinx didn't play tunes properly, (I started listening
    properly about this time), it was unreliable and an animal to set up; I
    put the old LVIX back on, and it stayed until I swapped the RD80 for my
    LP12. That's an example of how the early budget Linn arms won their
    reputations.
    
    I've heard the Aikito with a K5, compared to the Ittok with K18, Ekos
    with a Troika and a Naim ARO with a Troika, all in the same dem. Having
    owned an Ittok with a K9 and an Asaka, I was fairly familiar with it's
    characteristics. Obviously the Ekos/Troika combination was good. The
    Aikito's sound was so close to Ittok to make it almost redundant -
    maybe that's why Linn brought out the LVIII Ittok a couple of months
    ago. I had a LVX+ with K9 on my Linn in the early days, and I would say
    the Aikito was vastly superior in every respect; indeed as I've said
    elsewhere, it also outperformed the ARO, even when the ARO had a Troika
    on the end. The ARO was very clear, smooth and detailed, but it just
    didn't play tunes so good; when the ARO was playing, I wanted to try
    different tracks to see if it overcame certain "technical" things, but
    when the Aikito was on, I just wanted to sit back and enjoy a whole
    side without moving - once you experience this in a dem you never
    forget it, which why I always say listen first.
    
    As to the superiority of the Aikito to an LVX, yes the the Aikito will
    be better (that's NOT the same as saying the LVX is worse, it's just
    less capable and flexible with respect to cartridges you can use). If
    you are referring to your Revolver then the LVX is perfectly OK; the
    Aikito's extra performance would be wasted. This may be where the
    dealer you mentioned is coming from, but be careful; if he's
    overstocked on Basiks he may have other fish to fry than giving you the
    best sound!
    
    Finally, the RB300. I've never heard it but it's earned a good
    reputation. As to fitting it to a Linn Sondek, the dealer I use sells
    both Linn and Rega products; ultimately they prefer not to sell the
    LP12 with an RB300 as in their experience it doesn't perform as well
    as, say, an LP12 with an Aikito or a Roksan with an RB300. My
    experiences in their dem room has led me by and large to respect their
    judgement. Also it's an opinion I've heard elsewhere.
    
    But this all just my opinion, albeit based on experience; it's just
    second-hand news. If you're in the market for serious hifi you really
    must get out and find a dealer who will help you to educate yourself in
    identifying your needs. It can be easy with a good dealer, and a lot of
    fun!
    
    Dave