Conference wahoo::fishing

    Unless someone else has a better idea, it appears that you're forced
    into rigging the worm Carolina-style, i.e. slip weight 6-8" above
    the worm.  Even if you could get the slip weight down over the leader,
    the steel leader itself is going to reduce some of the sensitivity.
    You could elect to use 20-30 lb. test mono as a leader, but even
    that can get chewed up by a good sized pike, but then, pike usually
    are pretty tenacious fish and tend to strike rather hard, so
    sensitivity might not even be a concern.
    
    -Hj-

    re:0
    	Are you using to heavy a line to cast the worm without the weight?
    If this is why you need the weight I can think of two things off
    hand.
    
    	One is to cut the leader end off, slide on the slip sinker and
    permanently reattach it to the hook.
    
    	The other thing you could do is put one of those large split
    shot type weight on either the top of the hook shank or on the steel
    leader just above the worm.
    
    RAYJ

    	Attach the worm to a jig head and the jig to the steel leader.
    
    RAYJ

    	Well, since I got zapped by the computer while writing this
    note, I will finish it here.  I really want the sensitivity since
    the same areas also contain some fairly good bass (average size
    is approx. 16") and I am really fishing for the Bass.  I want the
    slip weight on the sinker since the action is much better in the
    moss and weed beds.  Mr. toothy is just a side attraction.  (BTW,
    minimum keepers in this lake I am fishing are 18" for bass and 36"
    for Pike.)...  So, there are some fair Mr. toothies to catch.  Oh
    well, sounds like I'm looking for the wrong thing.  I really want
    the slip sinker for the float at the end of the drop of the worm.
    The bass right now want the worm to settle slow on the end of the
    drop.  A fixed sinker doesn't let it work right at the end of the
    drop and I end up just catching Mr toothy.  Keep the ideas coming.

    I saw a device in a recent magazine that combines a bullet sinker
    and hook in one piece.  You could attach a wire leader directly
    to this device.  I think it's what you're looking for.  I will check
    tonight and report back on the manufacturer.
    
    Steve

    Re:4
    	If you don't need the weight to cast I would leave it off. You
    do not need a weight to impart action on a worm. I use and prefer
    a weight-less worm 95% of the time that I'm worm fishing, but to
    each there own.
    	As far as fast sinking and catching bass goes, I don't see where
    it would be that much different. A worm on a jig head will sink
    at the same speed (roughly) as a pig and jig which is also effective
    for bass. I believe someone else (Bassin Bob?) uses jigs a lot and
    can probably elaborate more on it but for the fish that I've caught
    using a pig and jig, the bass took the lure on the drop, not the
    retrieve, most of the time.

    RAYJ

    WHY WEIGHT???
    With a steel leader, you should not need a sinker. I have hit quite
    a few gatorfish (pikes & pickeral) fishing a weightless worm. I
    have also lost alot of them. Pike "seem" to hit from behind, and
    bite of the tail. Fishinh fallin trees and heavy brush I dont use
    a slip sinker. I tend to use a split shot (real small) about 6"
    from the hook. Only for casting distance. I think this actully has
     better action than a slip sinker.
    
    
    
                                  BUCKETMOUTH
    
    
    
    
    
    
    s
    
    inker. 

    If you have to have weight try a kangaroo worm by manns.  You can
    put the weight in the pocket!!  Boy do thy work on spawning fish
    on the beds!
    
    Bob
    

    Why not cut the end of the wire as previously suggested, thread
    it through the bullet weight and attach it to the hook, then "peg"
    the front of the bullet weight against the leader with a toothpick
    inserted into the hole in the sinker ?
    

    The product you want is called "the Texas Peg".  It is a "custom
    made extended worm hook and bullet style weight all in one".  The
    device is made by LIT'L BUFFALO BAITS Route 1, Box 22 Mineola, Tx
    75773.  For $5.00, they will send you 3 texas pegs in 3/8 oz and
    a patch.  Comes in red, blue or black (the pegs, I don't know about
    the patch).
    
    Steve

    	Well, I'm back to this problem again.  Many of the suggestions
    have worked.  The best I have found so far is to use about 12 inches
    of steel leader material on the end of the monofilament.  Slide
    the slip sinker onto the steel.  Then tie the hook on.  Much cheaper
    than pre-made leaders and you can change hokks, etc. fairly easily.
    	Now, the second part of the problem that showed up later this
    fall with the increase in moss and grass.  How do you attach the
    steel leader to the monofilament line and keep it weedless?  What
    knot do you use and what is the % breaking strength of the knot.
    I presently use a standard over-hand knot in the steel leader. 
    Don't pull it down fully.  Slip the mono through the knot and tie
    a modified clinch knot (like used on a jig for slip loop use) in
    the monofilament.  Then slide the two knots together and tighten.
    However, I have found that the clipped end of the steel leader tends
    to rub on the monofilament and fray it very quickly (approx. 2 fish
    per tie).  If you don't re-tie very often, you lose leader and hook
    when you set the hook.  Is there a better knot for this attachment?
    Rings, etc. are out of the question in this much moss and grass.
    Any help out there???