Conference wahoo::fishing-v2

Berkley
One Berkley Drive
Spirit Lake, Iowa    51360-1041

January 10, 1992

Dear Mr. Ota:

Thank you for your letter addressed to Mr. Bedell, the president and 
owner of Berkley and Fenwick.  Mr. Bedell asked me to respond to your 
questions as I am the Product Manager for Berkley Rods.

Your letter is personally satisfying to me for two reasons.  First, 
you obviously have done a lot of research and hold a high regard for 
Berkley and Fenwick.  We are extremely proud of the quality and 
function of our product and it is gratifying that people recognize 
this.  Second, it is refreshing to able to respond to your in-depth 
questions.  It gives me an opportunity to dispel some of the myths 
that seem to surround the rod area.  We could discuss the information 
you are requesting for an entire day as it can get quite complicated.  
I hope my short version will be clear.

In the early 1980's Berkley made a technology breakthrough in graphite 
rod construction that utilized 100% graphite material.  This means 
that if you were to remove the handle, wraps and guides and burn off 
the resin (the graphite bonding agent) all that would remain would be 
graphite.  All other competitive rods would contain a fiberglass 
"scrim" cloth which is a fine mesh fiberglass woven cloth.  This was 
used to ensure hoop or crush strength.  Berkley's process eliminated 
the need for fiberglass scrim cloth and actually increased  the 
strength of the blank.  This gave fisherman a true 100% graphite blank 
or state-if-the-art sensitivity.

In earlier years, fiberglass rods were the only rods available.  Then 
graphite material was used in combination with fiberglass calling them 
composite rods.  Now Berkley uses 100% graphite blanks.  These are the 
three basic construction materials.  Each has its advantages.

Fiberglass is a very durable and forgiving material.  It has a slower 
response time than graphite and has less power.  This can work to your 
advantage in some situations, as professional fishermen have found, 
such as crankbait fishing.  It is possible using multi-treble hooked 
crankbaits to actually set the hook too quickly and the fish can 
cantilever himself free.  The slower response of fiberglass slows the 
hookset allowing the fish to completely inhale the bait.  Also, as the 
fish gets close to the boat, that inherently softer fiberglass action 
acts as a shock absorber so the fish can not as easily "twist" free.

Graphite on the other hand is much lighter, more sensitive and 
provides more power.  When you pick up a graphite rod and flex it you 
will notice that is seems much more stiff.  Graphite allows you to 
load (backcast) and unload (forward cast) more energy/power.  Or store 
and release more energy providing more power in the cast and in the 
hookset.

Graphite is also a very sensitive material.  It transfers energy very 
quickly and is much lighter than fiberglass.  This allows the blanks 
to be smaller in diameter (less material) reducing the mass which 
increases the sensitivity.  Fiberglass, in fact, transfers energy very 
well.  However, it becomes bulky to achieve the necessary strength.  
This increased mass dampens the sensitivity.  Sensitivity then, is 
dependent on a number of factors.  Two important factors are graphite 
content and the physical weight of the rod.

There are literally hundreds of types of graphite available.  However, 
only a handful have the necessary qualities for a fishing rod.  Most 
other graphite applications are in the aerospace industry.

One of the key attributes of graphite is its modulus.  Modulus simply 
means stiffness.  The higher the modulus the stiffer the material.  
(note, the material not the rod blank.)  Some people believe that the 
higher the modulus material used in a rod the better the rod will 
perform.  Not necessarily so.  In fact, high modulus materials can be 
weak.  The key to using very high modulus material is to use the right 
type along with correct fiber placement and blank design.  As with 
most things in life you must balance all the properties to achieve the 
best solution, not inflate a single component.

Berkley's Bionix Pulse uses two types of graphite with differing 
modulus (stiffness).  The longitudinal strands running tip-to-butt are 
of a lower modulus (less stiff) material than are the hoop fibers.  
The linear fibers are constantly flexing whereas the hoop fibers are 
there to keep the blank in round.  This is a classic example of using 
the right material for the right job.  It should be noted that a 
perfectly built blank breaks because as it is flexed the diameter 
wants to oval until it finally fails.  Think of how a common drinking 
straw breaks when flexed.  The longer the rod stays in round while 
flexed the higher the break strength.

Fenwick's Golden Wing has a higher modulus than IM6.  IM6 is one of 
the many types of graphite available.  Others include T300, T400, 
T500, T600, IM7, IMX, the list goes on.  The weak link in the IM6 
material is its fiber strength.  The Golden Wing material offers 8% 
higher modulus, 28% more break strength and 19% more elongation.  All 
properties must balance as in the Golden Wing material.  Its an 
excellent material.  The advantage of using a very high modulus 
material coupled with increased break strength provides for incredible 
power and speed.

The term "high modulus" is used on many rods including Berkley's 
Spirit Rod.  In this series, one type of graphite is used that is a 
more traditional type material.  The term "high modulus" definition 
comes from an earlier graphite construction period.  At the time it 
was introduced it was truly a high modulus.  In today's technical 
terminology it would be considered a low to medium modulus.  It is a 
material that is more common in its performance characteristics.


There are many types of guides used on rods today.  However, I would 
classify them into 4 groups:

    1.	Wire frame guides are the original style and are used on only 
        very, very inexpensive rods.

    2.	Ceramic guides were the first step towards today's high 
        performance guides.  They are very smooth and allow the line 
        to move through them easily.  However, they are not very 
        durable.

    3.	Aluminum oxide is the main type of guide used.  They have an 
        extremely hard surface and are very smooth.  Most Berkley rods 
        will use aluminum oxide guides.

    4.	SIC (Silicon Carbide) guides are the top of the line.  They 
        are very high quality and also expensive.  They are used on 
        Berkley Series One Rods only.

Aluminum Oxide guides are made very consistent and have excellent 
qualities.  Simply, they do what they are supposed to do.  There are 
guides that are harder and smoother than even SIC guides, however, 
they become cost prohibitive and quite honestly aren't necessary.

Berkley was the first rod company to start building rods with an 
integral solid graphite tip.   This system increased the tip strength 
by over 4 times when snapped across a sharp edge.  Fenwick now uses 
this system in their Lunker Stik series.  Berkley has been using this 
system along with polymer filled tips.  This system incorporates an 
epoxy resin comparable to the resin in the blank itself.  By filling 
the tips with epoxy we would increase the tip strength.  However, as 
of January 1, 1991, Berkley discontinued the solid tip approach in all 
of the models.

The rod story can go on and on.  I hope this information will be 
helpful.  If you have any questions please feel free to contact me 
personally.  Again, thank you for taking your time to contact Berkley.

Sincerely

Dave Ohlaug
Product Manager-Rods  

    Another job well done Brian, lots of good info.  -donmac 

Although not in a leaque with Bass Fish-er-persons'
I was very impressed with both messages.
It was great to see someone up at that level take the time and effort
to respond to a customer with such valuable information to us all.

Depending on other responses you will get I would recommend a follow up
message saying how us readers enjoyed the feedback.

Although I fish the Salt mostly I will now choose my new rod purchases
with this information in mind.

Good Work
-< Tuna Tail >-

In a previous life (read that, previous employer, not a Shirley MacLaine
mystical thingy) I worked with a guy who is a very, very serious
fisherman who takes (for example) trips to Labrador to catch seven-pound
brook trout(!)

My friend Ed also has a collection of fly rods that he began many years
ago, and includes custom rods that he ordered -- and received -- in
separate calendar years. Would you wait two years for a custom rod with a
four-figure price tag? Along the way, Ed began fixing busted rods for me
and other friends in the early 70's. He completely restored two rods that
I've had since the '50s, taking them down to the blanks. Then I asked him
to build a custom rod, from scratch (it's a work of art). To make a long
story short, Ed is now a reputable custom rod builder and restorer, doing
work for some names you would probably recognize.

He just returned six rods that he fixed for me around Christmas time, and
there's no doubt that they are better than when they were new. He had to
replace tip-tops and various guides on all of them. Everything matches,
including the garnishing on the wraps. There's no "hey, what happened to
that rod? Had it fixed?" Or, "Well, I had to replace the stripper guide,
and that's the only one I could find."  

He doesn't really know I'm doing this, but if you want a custom rod, or
have a rod (graphite, bamboo, fiberglass, boron...) that you really like,
and it needs to be fixed by a craftsman, contact:

       Edward Verow
       PO Box 10087
       Bedford, NH 03110
       603-668-4383

    re. - .0 & .1
    	While you had their attention you should have asked about their
    	Customer Service, which IMO does not warrant another Fenwick
        purchase.
    
    	To make a long story short I purchased a $250+ flyrod from a Fenwick
    	dealer and it broke (fault subjective) after two years of use. 
    	When I called about having it fixed or replacing the broken tip,
    	the answer simply was 'we can't do that'.  Instead they offered to
    	sell me another rod at "cost" or approximately $125.00.  I replaced
    	the rod with a second-hand SAGE RPL which new retails for $325.  About
    	two years later this rod also broke (fault subjective).  This time
    	when I called the answer was 'that rod is warrantied for life, just
    	send it back with a letter explaining what happened and we'll match
    	a new tip section to the butt and send it back'.  About four weeks
    	latter I had my rod back with an invoice for $0.  No whinning about
    	how old, where did I buy it, receipt etc.  I also asked what if it was 
    	clearly my fault for a break, the answer was 'we'll replace any rod
    	section for $65, just send it back and we'll match the old to the
    	new'.
    
    So if you're about to spend big bucks on a rod you expect to use alot
    and last a long time ask about warranty and repair, it could save you
    money, the other stuff is all smoke!
    
    regards....john
    still_dissatisfied_fenwick_former_customer!
    
    BTW:  I still prefer the casting of the Fenwick over the SAGE.
                                                     

 Bummer, John. I hope my fenwick never breaks. :-(

    I'm still pissed at Shimano for not replacing a rod that broke on me a
    few years ago.  They returned MOST, but not all, of my broken rod with 
    a copy of a form with a (something like) "not covered" box checked.  No
    explanation, no nothing.  I wrote a letter of complaint after that and
    never heard another word.  I've dealt with the customer service
    departments with most of the other major manufacturers and Shimano has
    been my ONLY negative experience.   
    
    Haven't bought a Shimano product since.  I know they make a good
    product, but that have not proved to me that they'll stand behind it.
    
    Maybe I should have Brian write me a letter...
    
    Everytime I have another positive experience with another manufacturer
    (like the out of warranty Diawa PS1305 that arrived on my door step
    overhauled free of charge this week) my flame towards Shimano becomes
    hot again.  I actually started writing another letter a couple of days
    ago, but tossed it aside, I just may wind up sending it).
    
    -donmac
    

To make a long story short, I had been the happy owner of 3 Fenwick HMG rods,
until about a year ago.  I broke my short 4wt rod and sent it back to Fenwick 
for their "LIFE TIME Warranty" repair,  what I got back was an invoice for $98
plus handling of $7.  Well the rod I got on sell for $87 and wasn't about to 
pay, more than the rod cost.  I sent them back a letter and was called my one
of their customer assistance people who said that the break was questionable and
that I would have to pay.  They ended up sending the rod back to me, and I sent 
a letter to Fenwick, which got no reply.  Since that time I've built a Winston 
for myself and a Sage for a neighbor.  I now regret that I have the other 2 rods


Last summer a friend of mine was fishing the Henry's fork and broke an Orvis HLS
that he had gotten earlier in the spring.  He called Orvis direct and they had 
him take the rod over to the Jackson store and they replaced it there on the 
spot.  I was impressed at the easy and quick responce by Orvis.


It seems that when companies are bought out, like Fenwick a few years ago, that 
the attention goes to the bottom line.  I broke a rod 13 years ago and Fenwick 
fixed it quickly without a word of question.  They have surely changed.

Tabber (disgruntled by the Fenwick attitude)

    Back in late Sep, I was fishing with a friend and using his Iron
    Feather fly rod when I was setting the hook on a 3-4 lbs striper,
    the butt section of the rod exploded into 3 pieces.  This was a 
    10 wt fly rod that  had just landed two stripers in the 25 lbs 
    class.  My friend sent the rod pieces back to Fenwick explaining
    that the rod was approximately one year old but he did not have 
    a receipt since this was a replacement for a Fenwick Boron that
    failed.  
    
    Anyway, in took about three months but Fenwick did the replace the
    Iron Feather for FREE.......
    
    In some cases Fenwick is still making good on their products, but 
    after that experience I wouldn't even consider buying or fishing with
    another Iron Feather, Tin Feather would be more appropriate if you
    ask me.
    
    Greg 
    
    

    .4 recommends a fly rod builder.  I'd like to have a surf rod made.
    Can any noter recommend someone to do that in the NH/MA/ME area?
    
    Thanks,
    Jack

Send mail to Bruce LEVERS::SWEET.  He does good work.  I expect he'll reply
here himself, however, he & I are going to buy rod parts tomorrow night,
so you may want to get in touch with him ASAP.

Tim

Bass Pro Shops has their "Bionic Blade" rods on sale for $30.  They're
normally $50 and $60.  They've just upgraded the whole line.  Get 'em
while they last!

I have a couple of them, casting and trigger.  They're really well made
of IM6 graphite, Fuji-style ceramic guides (all in line), good strong reel
seats, and anatomically contoured cork grips.  And they say BIONIC BLADE 
up the side so everyone knows you mean business :-)  I've never seen the
spinning rods, but the casting rods have a true fast action, so that they
can cast a light lure very well and also have a lot of backbone.  They
are really strong and tough too.  Definitely my favorite small rods.

The replacement line is made of IM8 graphite, whatever that is.