Conference vmszoo::rc

    Dave,
    	I'd go with pushrods.  Cut a hole in the bottom of the fuse if you
    have to.  Noone will notice a patch there.  Also be careful to get the
    ailerons slop free.  I have seen aileron flutter problems with this
    plane.  The standard hinging is a mess.  Make sure that they won't pull
    out.  If they are marginal, rehinge the control surfaces.  Also seal
    the hinge gaps.  I'd go with servos in the wings instead of belcranks. 
    The plane flies great if you get the controls solid.
    
    Charlie
    

For the fuselage, consider putting holes on both sides and running 
pull-pull controls. Just mirror the horn on the opposite side and 
hook up the wires. You can use a piece of nyrod to snake the wires 
through initially and then remove it and connect them up.

    I wouldn't go pull-pull unless you have ball bearing servos.  The load
    on the output shaft will wear it out.  Pull-pull is good if you do it
    right but so are pushrods.
    
    charlie
    

I was thinking more from an ease of installation point of view but 
yes, BB servos are strongly recommended. The BB conversion kits offer 
a reasonable upgrade (Tower has 4 Universals for about $17 which fit 
the $15 JR 507s)

The problem I usually have with pushrods is getting them into the 
fuselage and out the holes on the already built planes. I guess a 
Telemaster might have a bit more headroom 8^)

    The tubing trick will work on pushrods.  You run a piece of nyrod
    through the fuse and slip it over the pushrod end.  Then pull it back
    through and feed in the pushrod.  Works even with Y pushrods for dual
    elevators.  Many ARF's come with the tubing just for this purpose.
    
    Charlie
    

    
    If you go pull-pull then you can use a system where you connect the
    wires to a swivelling arm, then connect the arm to the servo, you then
    have no side strain on the servo. So :
    
    	   
      wire to horn		
    -------------------------I 
    			     I------I
    	         Swivel -->  O	    O  <--- servo output arm
    			     I    
    -------------------------I <- swivelling arm 
    
    I'll never be good at ASCII graphics (sigh)
    
    In the UK Flair make a really neat moulded gizmo to do this, which
    incorporates a spring loading to keep the whole thing nice and tight.
    It also lets you get away with sloppy horn geometry. Neat product!
    
    Cheers
    
    Nigel 
    

    From what everybody's saying, it looks like pushrods are the way to go,
    as I'm not keen on cutting into the model if I can help it.  The fuse
    is slab-sided with no opening between the bays, so I'd probably end up
    with quite a mess.
    
    Since pushrods are it, I guess my next task is to figure out how to
    make pushrods work without scraping.  The exit holes for the elevator
    and rudder are almost directly below the front of the horiz stab and
    there isn't much space to work in there. I tried using dowel rods, but
    they ended up banging together and scraping.  What would be *IDEAL*
    would be something that is a) rigid b) small in diameter and c) has a
    2-56 rod on the end.  While I'm at it, I'll wish for world peace.
    
    How can you make pushrods work in such a small space?
    
    Thanks for the help.

    If you're going for push rods in a tight space then Glass or Carbon
    arrow shafts or kite sticks are worth a try the 3/16" (4-5mm) diameter
    are very stiff.
    
    Personally, I'd go for the closed loop (on Rudder at least) with the
    servo saver as described by Nigel ..(-.2 I think).  
          ...But then a Glider Guider would ..they do it all the time..
    
    Regards Trev

    Dave Brown makes nice pushrod kits that come with Plastic ends.  He
    makes both fiberglass and carbon fiber shafts.  They are about 1/4 inch
    in diameter.  I hate the extra linkage in the pull-pull with a
    belcrank.  I go directly to the servo but I use double ball bearing
    servos to do the job.  My Conquest rudder has ZERO slop.  I used Kevlar
    string for the pull-pull and it's very rigid and friction free.  You
    don't need to string it that tight if you have a material that doesn't
    stretch like Kevlar.
    
    Charlie
    

    In a tight installation I would use a full length 256 rod and sleeve.
    Dubro sells them already packaged.
    
    To make an exit hole I use a chainsaw file. It is about 3/16" in
    diameter and is a constant thickness. It is about 12" long and this
    allows you to file a groove that will line up the cable/rod with the
    horn and servo.
    
    E.

Sullivan makes a set now with carbon fiber inners that aren't temperature 
sensitive.

    As Eric said in .10 I heartily recommend solid 2-56 rods.  Using the
    chain saw file is EXACTLY how I do it.  Doing it this way eliminates
    ALL quesswork later.  Once trimmed, always trimmed.
    
    Ron