Conference vicki::boats

I would replace the waterpump impeller anyways.  You have already done the
work taking it apart and although it may look ok it could be dried out, etc.

Back to the original question.
I pull the lower unit on my Merc 150 every other year and change the waterpump
impeller.  It is an 89 and also did the same to my 115hp merc '83.  I always
had it in neutral.  The problems that I had are the alignment of the shift
mechanism and the splines from the lower unit to the engine.

You may have to have someone jimmy the shifter while pushing up on the lower
unit.  You can turn the prop shaft by hand while puching up on the unit to
align the splines.  It's not that tough once you get the hang of it.

Gordon

    Hi Bill,  (careful - I get verbose here...)
    
    I have a 1969 65 HP Merc - Great Motor! I second the recommendation
    to change the impeller now while it's apart. (I did this in May).
    The manual was not much help with this procedure (re-attach lower
    unit), trial and error were my teachers.
    
    Mercury recommends dropping the lower end in forward gear but it
    does not matter as long as your controller is in the same gear as the
    lower end when you bolt it back up, neutral/neutral etc.
    
    If it's a one man job I recommend hanging the lower end by a few
    bungy cords so you can lift it into the power head with one hand.
    (At what point is he getting held up?)
    
    ENSURE the lower end is in the same gear as the controller.
    
    1) Slide the lower end (LE) up until stop, if it does not go up far enough
       to start the nuts on the bolts turn the drive shaft clockwise in
       1/4" increments, sliding the LE up after each turn, until the drive 
       shaft slides into the power head. (coat drive shaft splines 
       with anti-ceasing compound beforehand)
    
       Once the splines mesh properly, and the water pump pipes meet...
    
    2) As you slide the LE up, monitor the Reverse Lock Out Rod and Shift
       Rod thru the opening at the front of the unit, immediately above
       the LE. The shift rod is most likely to hold you up if it does not
       mesh OVER and ONTO the LE shift rod. Plastic guides help direct
       the rods together but you may need to fiddle with the controller
       a bit so that it turns the upper shift rod just enough so the the 
       shift rod splines mesh. You can feel the shift rod with your finger 
       via the front opening, if the LE won't slide up all the way feel for
       tension on the shift rod. If the shift rod is tight in place and not
       swinging around this is where you are held up. Keep mild but steady
       tension holding the LE up against the shift rod and move the
       controller slightly back and forth until you hear the shift rod pop
       down ONTO and OVER the LE shift rod. The LE should easily slide up
       into place now. Throw a few nuts on the lower end and ensure you
       have all three gears by running the controller into the three
       positions and turning the fly wheel by hand watching for the desired
       response on the prop shaft.
    
       If you get all three gears put it in reverse and try to tilt up the
       motor, if it's locked down (like it should be) finish bolting it
       together. If you can tilt the motor up while in reverse the "Reverse
       Lock Out Cam" is not in the proper position on the shift rod and the
       LE will need to be dropped to try the Reverse Lock Out Cam in a
       different position.
    
       I hope this helps! Write to my node if I can be of further
       assistance.
    
Tom
    
PS: My rates are as reasonable as Rick Wilson's!!! 8^)
    
    
       

    Thanks for the input folks, I shared them w. Jim, and he's going to try
    it again this week-end. Much appreciated, Bill C.

    We have "Re-assembly", the motor ran fine, Thanks for the advice !
                                                   Bill C.