Conference vicki::boats

    
    Well I did a "DIR/TIT=TRAIL and /HITCH and was suprised not to
    find a previous topic for this...
    
    anyway... re: Colin,
    
    	I've always found the best price at U-haul, as you have... But
    I even found a difference from one U-haul to another. There was a 
    difference of about 50-60 bucks between U-haul Norwood and U-Haul
    Lowell. Since I picked up the truck in Medway, I took a ride thru 
    Norwood to save the bucks... call around....
    
    Rick

    And U-Haul matches their low prices with equivalent service...
    
    I ordered a hitch from them a couple years ago and scheduled an
    installation.  I got nothing but one excuse after another on why they
    couldn't get the part, couldn't do this, couldn't do that....  I
    *never* spoke to the same person twice and no one ever knew what the
    others promised/commited.
    
    I gave up and went to Donahue Trailer in Burlington.  Spent just one
    morning and got everything done right, on time, as promised.  They even
    gave me two hitch balls because I didn't know the size of the tongue on
    the boat trailer.
    
    Cost 30% more than U-Haul and worth every penny.
    
    
    **Disclaimer**  U-Haul's are franchises can be very different from one
    to another.

	re .0

	My receivers (hitch AND radio) were already installed when I 
bought the vehicle, but I had priced them at Campers' Inn and they 
seemed the lowest retail outlet in the area for Reese and Drawtite.  
J.C. Witney were a little lower and I bought the ball mount and weight
distributing hitch from them.  JCW wouldn't tell me on the phone what
brand they sell; but when pushed they said the parts were compatible
with Drawtite.  BTW, even for a 3 or so mile trip to the local puddle
its worth hooking up the spring bars, it makes a BIG difference to the
handling and generally reduces the bouncing around. 

	Reg

    re -.1
    
    I bought a class 3 for my Blazer from JCW. The hitch itself was made
    by a company  out of Pheonix AZ. It is a heavy gauge, welded, well 
    built unit. The price was around $90 which was substanstially less than
    anyone else wanted ($140-$189). My only complaint would be that they
    use a light coat of paint on them, which is prone to surface rust
    readily. 
    
    I found Donahue trailer in Burlington to be a good local one-stop
    source for draw bars and such. They weren't as cheap as JCW but they
    had everything I needed. I would have ordered the draw bar from JCW but
    I didn't know how much of a drop I needed until I mounted the hitch.
    
    ~jeff  

    I will look again but I believe the information that came with 
    my new boat and trailer stated NOT to use a weight distribution
    type hitch. ie anti sway bars.  why is this?  is it due to the 
    weight of the trailer and boat as apposed to the towing vehicles
    own weight???   

��    I bought a class 3 for my Blazer from JCW. The hitch itself was made
��    by a company  out of Pheonix AZ. It is a heavy gauge, welded, well 

    Valley Hitch.

    I bought my last two hitches from the manufacturer.  They make and
    install a complete line of trailer hitches and sell to Hitch World etc.
    
    		DA'LAN, INC.
    		68 Walker Road
    		Shirley, MA  01464
    		508-425-9585
    			ask for Gerry Barclay and be sure to tell
    			him you are from Digital....
    
    The last time they did the installation and did a super job.
    Best of luck...

    
    Colin,
    The reason your boat does not require a weight distributing hitch
    is that it's only ~3000 lbs (19' Larson for those that don't know)
    and your truck is a full size Dodge 4x4.  You should have no problem
    with a conventional hitch.
    
    Now if were to hook your boat up to my little Dodge Ram 50 it would 
    be a different story...
    
    Rick

>��    I bought a class 3 for my Blazer from JCW. The hitch itself was made
>��    by a company  out of Pheonix AZ. It is a heavy gauge, welded, well 
>
>    Valley Hitch.
    
    No, it was Quality Metals, or Quality Fabricators, or something along
    that line. The sticker was on the hitch, but has since fallen off with
    the light coat of paint. :^(
    
    ~jeff
    

    
    	RE:5
    
    	Rick is right, if the boat isn't to heavy then a class-II hitch
    will be fine. But if the boat is heavier and the trailer is equiped
    with surge brakes, then the spring bars to help equalize the weight
    and the sway bar will interfer with the surge brake. The surge brake
    is mounted on the tonue of the trailer. As the tow vehicles slows, 
    the surge brake feels the presure and applies the trailer brakes.
    You can order the required parts to work with the surge brake if
    needed. A class-III hitch mounts to the frame of the tow vehicle,
    extra strength. Also class-III hitches are made for a specific
    vehicle, (none adjustable) some class-III hitches are adjustable,
    to become wider or narrow depending on the frame. If you plan to
    buy another tow vehicle in the near future, then you may want to
    consider an adjustable class-III hitch, it then could be bolted to
    the new tow vehicle. Good luck... Oh, bought my Class-III at U-haul
    
    	Mike

    I will have to look again but I believe the weight was about 4000 lbs
    I have been using my step and tow bumper but with this boat it 
    flexes to much for comfort.  On the subject of weight does anybody
    know of any "public" scales in mass to weigh trailers and boats??
    I had a non dec friend ask me this. 

    You might ask at a sand and gravel pit if they will weigh you for a
    slight fee.
    Wayne

    
    	I had my '64 Correct Craft wieghed at the Nashua landfill.
    
    	Rick

	re  weight distributing, surge brakes, anti-sway devices and 
vehicle to trailer weight ratios.....  yeah, THIS topic (-:


	Clarification; I probably don't  NEED  a weight distributing 
hitch, I had said that even on the 3 mile trip to the local puddle it 
is worth the small amount of extra time to hook up the spring bars.  
Worth it in ride comfort.  I am towing a 2,300lb boat on a ~1,100lb 
trailer behind a 6,000lb vehicle - (weighed at Kane's Concrete in 
Hudson Mass for free), so the tail certainly shouldn't wag the dog.  

The reason that anti-sway devices shouldn't be used with surge brakes 
is that they typically attach to one side of the hook-up and provide 
friction dampening of the  "hinging"  between the trailer and the tow 
vehicle.  Surge brakes depend on a little movement to actuate the 
master cylinder, as explained earlier  - -  an anti sway device
provides a pivot for this movement, i.e. you hit the brakes and the
trailer tends to jack-knife {:==NASTY !}.  I havn't looked into it,
but there may be anti-sway devices specifically designed for use with
surge brakes - Maybe something more symetric ?  Maybe something that
acts between the tow vehicle and the ball hitch instead of the trailer
frame ? 

re Rick:

	So, how much did you have to pay at the dump ?   (-:
		(one way trip or two ?)

    
    Can someone tell me what kind of hitch I need to put
    on my Toyota (4X4) to tow a 2200 lb. boat??  I've
    towed with the step and tow bumper for the last few
    years, but this set-up won't do anymore!  
    
    The trailer is equipped with brakes, do I need a
    class II hitch or a class III hitch??  Thanks,
    
    Jeanne
    
    

    If I recall the toy bumper is close to a class II, you'd probably want
    to go to a class 3 receiver, (5Klbs max)...
    
    -don mac

    Jeanne, is that 2200#'s just for the boat or does it include trailer,
    ski gear, a cooler of one's favorite beverage, etc?  I think you are
    way low on your weight estimate.  My 15 footer with trailer weighs
    about 2200#'s but it's wood and that's alot lighter than fiberglass.
    Anyways, 2000#'s is generally the cut-off point where you should
    consider a receiver type hitch which would get you to 5000 LBS.  Your
    step and tow bumper should have a rating tag on it.  My Ranger step and
    tow is good to 4000 LBS but it is pretty heavy duty compared to the
    ones I've seen on imported 4 x 4's.  One other thing to look at is the
    size of the trailer coupler on the trailer.  If it takes a 1-7/8"
    trailer ball, make sure you get one (trailer ball) rated to haul more
    than 2000 LBS.  You can find them up to 5000 LBS rated if you look
    around.  If it is a 2" ball, you will be all set because they are rated
    almost always to 5000 LBS.
    

    Wayne,
    
    I don't know if that weight includes the trailor, probably
    not.  My step and tow is rated for 3,000 lbs.  There's no
    way I can use the step and tow as it sits up too high on
    the truck.  I'll need to weld something onto the frame and
    then snap the hitch into that...I think that's the
    configuration I'm looking for.  
    
    Jeanne
    

    
    Jeanne,
    
    	No doubt that the 2200 lbs is just the Prostar, add 1000 for the
    trailer, a couple hundred for gas and equipment. You're looking more
    in the 3500-4000 lbs range with that rig.
    
    	Definately go receiver hitch as you'll get the ability to fit
    different bars in order to keep the trailer level.
    
    	I always forget my classes! Argh... anyone remember?
    
    Rick

    Jeanne,
    
    call U-Haul they do trailer hitches.  I think you'll
    want class III,  but if you tell them the weight of the
    whole rig, they will know the class.  I think Rick is 
    correct,  you are looking at about 3500-4000 lbs with trailer,
    fluids(beer),  and gear.
    
    Look in the yellow pages under Trailer Hitches.
    
    U-Haul in Natick (508) 653-5861
    
    Mike

    	When I was looking for a hitch a few years ago the best buy was at
    Rayco near Spag's in Shrewsbury.  They were very professional and did a
    neat, clean installation.  You can drop off the vehicle, walk over to
    Spag's, and spend more money! ;^)
    						B.C.

    (U-Haul) HitchWorld in S. Nashua has real good prices as well.
    
    If your close to 4Klbs, that toy is going to have it's work cut out for
    it.  Hope it has a V6.  I hauled boats under 2Klbs with a 4cyl toy 4x4 
    for 5 years, up and down the east coast, loved it, worked like a champ.  
    
    Last spring I upgraded a tad past the 3Klb mark and the toyota didn't
    have a chance.  Think the bumper was rated for 3500lbs, the truck 
    could supposedly tow more. But it could barely get out if it's own
    way...
    
    -donmac (who now has a V8)  

re: a few back

	I agree on Rayco across from SPAGS.
	They did a very professional job for me.
	I had one put on my Potiac Grand Prix SE.
	Fortunately the brother of the person who worked there also
	owned an SE and had one put on his at Rayco so I felt better
	knowing it was already done on an SE and at Rayco.

	Good Luck
	-< Tuna Tail >-

    
    I'll go with the Class III hitch.
    
    I have my doubts about the Toyota being able to tow,
    fortunately, I'll only be towing a few times back and
    forth to the lake, which is about 2 miles from where
    the boat will be garaged.  The boat goes into a slip on the
    Merrimack river sometime late May and stays there until
    October.  
    
    Thanks for all the help and info!
    
    Jeanne
    

    Geez Jeanne, I'm chasing your notes all over!
    
    Cheapest hitch I found was JC Whitney, just had 'em on sale, probably
    still are. Paid $89.95 - 10% valued customer discount for a class IV
    (6500 lbs). Of course I have to install it myself. 
    
    Think the Toys are rated for #3500 towing, which a class II could
    handle, but I don't like running the gear at the end of the rating
    limit. Your boat loaded will come within a few #'s of that number.
    A class III is your best bet, and you'll need to get the hitch
    mounted first before you buy the drawbar. You want the trailer level if
    it has surge brakes so you need to know what the height of the receiver
    opening is after the hitch is on the truck. I had to borrow Doug's
    drawbar last year to haul the boat out to the driveway to do some level
    measurements.  Come to think of it, I may need to do it again this
    year!
    
    ~jeff
    

Hi,


I just bought a 1993 Four Winns  - 180 Freedom, with a Fourwinns custom
trailer.  The boat/motor/trailer weighs about 3200 lbs.  From reading 
previous notes, it seems like I need a Class III trailer hitch.  By the
way, I will be towing it with an 87 conversion van, (V8 motor).

But I'm confused about those other things mentioned?  Spring bars?  
Draw Bars?  What exactly do I need.  The Hitch and a 2" ball.. but is
there anything else?  I just want to know what I"m talking about when I
start to call around for prices.

Thanks!

Cathi P

Oops, forgot to metion that my Four Winns trailer does NOT have the
surge brakes.

    
    Cathi,
    
    	Here are a few trailer hitch terms for ya...
    
    	Receiver - The large piece that bolts to the frame of the vehicle
    			on Class II, III and IV receiver type hitches.
    			Select the right capacity.
    
    	Draw Bar - The bar that slides into the receiver which the hitch
    			ball mounts onto.
    			Select the right size (Class II vs. III) and the
    			right shape (drop) to allow the trailer to sit
    			level.
    
    	Spring Bars - Arms that run from the tow vehicles hitch to the
    		trailer which distribute the weight even further than
    		the receiver. (Reg?)

    The receiver, as Rick describes, actually mounts to the car frame as
    opposed to the bumper. They come in differing weight ratings as
    identified by roman numerals for some reason. A class I, if I recall,
    is 2000# draw, 200# tongue weight. Class I hitches typically are bumper
    mounts, not receivers. There is a new 'sport-series' class I receiver
    hitch, but I digress. A class II is typically a receiver, 1.25" solid
    square bar (the drawbar if you will). It slides into the receiver and
    is locked with a pin (1/2" diameter I think). Class II's are rated
    3500# draw, 350# tongue. Class III's are 2" square receivers, rated
    5000# draw, 500# tongue, locked with a 5/8" pin. Then there's class IV,
    whcih is 6500#/750#. Very similar to the III except they use weight
    distributing or load leveling springs to transfer the trailer tongue
    weight back onto the tow vehicle. 
    
    Having said all that, a class III hicth would be fine for a 19' Four
    Winns. It is safer to error on the high side than the low. 
    
    Draw bars (the 1.25" or 2") are available in various rises or drops to
    allow the trailer to remain level. 4X4's with lift kits, or large tires
    would need a drop-drawbar. My fullsize Blazer needed a 6" drop, but the
    sport utility that replaced it needed a 4" lift for the same trailer. I
    would guess that a conversion van might need a 2"-4" rise or lift. 
    
    I actually made all of this up as I went along. :^)
    
    ~jeff 

    My JC Whitney class III hitch arrived last nite, what a beauty. The
    finish on it is far superior to the last hitch I ordered thru them. The
    prior hitch wasn't very resilant to the elements and really should have
    been re-painted prior to installation. It was mfg'd by a company in
    Arizona.
    
    The new hitch, regularly $139.95 from Whitney, was on sale for $89. The
    hitch is manufactured by Hidden Hitch out of Canada, and if that sounds 
    familar to you it may be because you've seen it in Overtons @ $139.95. 
    I'm a happy camper. :^)
    
    ~jeff 

    
    I called around for prices and decided to go with U-Haul 
    (HitchWorld) in S. Nashua.  They quoted me $220 ... but
    only ended up charging me $198.00.  That price was for
    the class III hitch, the receiver, the 2" ball and full
    installation.  
    
    Rayco quoted me $270-290 for the above.  Needless to say,
    I didn't go to them!
    
    I tested out the rig yesterday, towed the ProStar home
    from Rochester, NH, everything was cool!  The Toy wasn't
    as bad as I thought it would be.  For a 4-cylinder it
    did ok, maybe the 16 valves gives it a little more oommph
    or something.  Course, I had to hit the hills with some
    momentum behind me!  Total lbs. of this rig is 3200.
    
    Thanks DonMac for the U-Haul recommendation.
    
    Jeanne
    

    
    	Crossposted from 4WD, I couldn't let the boats noters
    miss out on this one!
    
             <<< GENRAL::DISK$OURDISK:[NOTES$LIBRARY]4WD.NOTE;10 >>>
                               -< 4 Wheel Drive >-
================================================================================
Note 763.36                      Trailer hitches                        36 of 36
WEFXIT::SUTER_P                                      11 lines  26-JUN-1995 10:07
                       -< Why aren't all balls 2 inch? >-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    
    	Ok, this ought to get some "creative" responses!
    
    
    	The draw bar in my class III hitch is rusted solid
    to the receiver. (A tree, chain and 4WD Low won't move it).
                         
    	Any ideas short of cutting for removing the draw bar?
    
    Rick

	   It's amazing what a propane torch and a big hammer can do for
	-most- things that are stuck...

						B.C.