| When rebuilding a Mercruiser 188 I/O (Ford 302 V8) I added an MSD box and
a higher output MSD coil. It has worked very well. The installation is
simple, but I found that I needed to add an MSD option that adpats the
output for my tach. MSD warns you that the tach may read inaccurately
so I knew to checked it. The MSD setup also allows you to bypass the S/S
ignition by means of a jumper wire. This is convenient for doing tune-ups
and for the case where the box fails.
I used a standard auto box, but I noticed sometime back that MSD also
makes a 'marine' box. I don't know what makes the marine version different.
1 vote for MSD,
Dave
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| re <<< Note 704.0 by POBOX::SWENSON >>>
> -< SOLID STATE IGNITION ADDON >-
You will probably have more luck with finding kits for older
engines than newer ones. In my nocturnal browsing through the J. C.
Whit(no, I don't need anything)ney catalogue I found kits for about
$60. They seem to have them for almost every major brand of
distributor, exceptions being the ones with dual points. Here's the
catch, you have to quote make, year, model, engine displacement, etc
of the c*r or tr*ck it is for. A little research with a "used on"
listing should come up with suitable answers once you know the marque
and model # of your distributor. Std disclaimer; these ain't b**t
parts, they ain't for use on, in, beside, under or near to b**ts, if
you get a f*r* on your b**t from using unapproved parts don't sue ME !, etc.
{Though I can't see that there's any more sparking under the cap than
with points}
Reg
PS I was referred to a speed shop when I was asking around about
this recently.
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Most marine engines do not use automotive distruibutors- in fact the
distributors are ususlally supplied by either Mallory or Prestolite
and these are not original equipment in production autos.
If you are fouling plugs- you may want to try a hotter plug or a
lean out your idle mixture, depending on the nature of the fouling.
If you have a fuzzy, loose carbon deposit on the plugs- your idle
mixture is too rich- that is carbon fouling that is occuring. A simple
readjustment of your idle mixture and an up[grade to a heat range
hotter plug should eliminate taht problem.
If you have a wet. oily black deposit- that is oil fouling. With
extended idling, or low speed operation, the high vaccum in the intake
mainofold will suck oil past the valves and foul the plugs. New valve
seals will usually cure this problem, although you may want to try a
hotter plug. This is only compensating for the real problem , however.
Valve seals in most engines can be replaced without pulling the heads.
The plug selection for most marine engines is selected for sustained
cruising (read sustined high engine loads). FGor light loads, a hotter
plug is ussually called for- your owner's manual should indicate the
correct plug- or any good auto parts soter can suggest the appropriate
hotter plug.
If you want to go to electronic ignition (you want a higher voltage at
the plugs, not just electronic ignition)- I would suggest getting the
make and model no off your distributor and head for your nearest
Auto speed shop- you can probabbly get a conversion from the
manufacturer.
If your engine is in good shape and properly tuned up, you really
shoud't be having a problem. I have a CD ignition conversiopn that I
have had sitting for two years taht I haven't installed, simply beacuse
my ol' point type system is set up to specs and wirks beautifully. I
can carry a spare set of points, condensor, coiul ,rotor and cap and
replace the whole thing or the parts if anything gives out while I'm
underway. Big $$ to have all the parts as spares for an electronic
system.
My suggestion is to find the problem that is causing the fouling- fix
that.It may be as simple as an idle mixture readjustment.
The real advantage I see to an electronic ignition in a boat is
less maintenance. Others may disagree, but that's my opinion. I like
something I can fix simply if it breaks down while I'm underway.
Dick
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