| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 253.1 | Clear Vinyl Help Needed | BAGELS::MONDOU | | Wed Feb 01 1989 13:09 | 4 |
| Good idea. One problem that I have not solved is how to
polish out the fine scratches that seem to be inevitable
in my clear vinyl side curtains. Any ideas ?
|
| 253.2 | teak protection | HAZEL::YELINEK | WITHIN 10 | Wed Feb 01 1989 13:43 | 23 |
| I was lookin' to visit the boat show this week to see if I could
find this 2-Step teak cleaner/preserver I saw back at the Sportfishing
Show.
BTW-My boat doesn't have to much teak, I haven't taken delivery yet
(April 7th) but I want to be prepared with the maintenance equip.
along with the handy dandy shine accesories that are part of
owning a fiberglass boat. I mean, what else do I have to think
about when there's still a chance of sn*w....
As I understand? cleaning and oiling the teak is a 3? step process?
Or was the guy at the boat show feeding me a line......
He claimed to have a 2-Step (2 liquids) in order to accomplish the
same results as the usual 3. Anybody care to comment?
What do you people use to wax your boat with anyway. Is there a
wax specifically designed for fiberglass that you have experience
with. Or is all this nonsense something that the new boat owner does
for the first year or two
....and then.... .
/MArk
|
| 253.3 | AH but for Spring....... | SALEM::KLOTZ | | Wed Feb 01 1989 13:59 | 43 |
| Vinyl Side Curtains-
Use a mild soap about three times a year (Commission, Mid, Layup)
Ivory Liquid is great. Soap too often dries them out.
Host with a open hose (flow not spray or stream) frequently!
PLEDGE (not lemon Pledge -as it'll yellow). If you spray on
some pledge & wipe with a soft cloth you'll see an immediate
improvement in clarity, shine, & fewer scratches.
When rolling the curtains roll a soft cloth with them. The
scratches come from the vinyl cutting itself.
Vinly Seats etc..
Armor All can not be beat -- blocks the UV & the don't fade
or dry up.
Snaps for the Bimini
Silicon Spray (WD 40 will cause black streaks)
Teak
Starbright Premium -- I have used many other oils & used this
for the first time last season. I was REAL impressed. I only
has to touch it up once towards Aug. & I think that was only
cause it felt un-natural not to.
Bimini Top
If canvas a little water in a bucket with some lemon juice removes
& kills any mildew build that always show up.
If of the vinyl type - automotive vinyl top cleaner & wax is
fantastic.
General wash downs
Simple Green is great for scum lines
Turtle Wax ZIF car wash keeps a great shine & adds to soil
resistance between major waxes (not slippery either - wash &
wax in one shot!)
Stainless
Never-Dull -- one of the greatest things since slices bread
I do all the stainless on my 34'convertible in about 15 min.
Wipe on/off - removes rust spots also
Have fun,
Lou "Phanta Sea"
|
| 253.4 | Pledge for side curtains | ROBOAT::HEBERT | Captain Bligh | Wed Feb 01 1989 14:08 | 36 |
| The top and side curtains that came with my HydraSports are made
by Water Bonnet. I called them at their factory in Florida to ask
them for recommendations for upkeep. I've followed their advice
since I bought this boat in 1984.
"Canvas" - which really isn't canvas, but a vinyl-coated heavy
cloth - I wash the outside vinyl with diluted Armorall Cleaner.
When it's completely dry I spritz on Armorall Protectant, which I
then rub in with a soft cloth. It looks like it did when I bought
it.
"Windows" - the clear plastic parts of the canvas set that you
zip in or out - I wash them with a solution of dish soap (Dove,
Ivory, like that) and warm water, using a soft terry cloth. When
they're dry I spray on _non-lemon_ Pledge furniture polish, let
it get not-quite-dry, and wipe them *vigorously* with a very soft
(usually flannel) rag. This last step has allowed me to buff out
the occasional abrasions that you get in these windows, like
where they rub against the Bimini top support, you know?
Speaking of the Bimini top support, a couple of years ago a freak
heavy wet snow storm hit us in the first week in May. The
aluminum frame for my Bimini top collapsed from the weight, as I
had already removed my winter cover. I could not get a
replacement frame, as Water Bonnet has changed their style. So I
had a new one made at a small shop at Bend Boat Basin in
Portsmouth, RI. The new one is completely stainless steel, right
down to the set screws. This one does NOT rub black marks onto
the side curtains like the old aluminum one did. Looks much
better, too. It should, for the cost. But it fit perfectly.
There's good reason to take good care of your canvas top set and
side curtains. It will cost you $1200 to $1500 to replace them on
a 24' boat.
Art
|
| 253.5 | boat care products + product query | FENNEL::KLEIN | | Wed Feb 01 1989 17:53 | 16 |
|
For teak (which I truly hate to take care of), I use DEKS OLJE.
It's apparently a mix of an oil and a light varnish. Needs no sanding
once it's applied and you keep after it. Keeping after it = a fresh
coat every 90 days (that's in sweetwater). It comes in several grades,
I use the #2 grade which is imparts a light gloss to the wood.
For stainless, there's a product called 'Magic Wadding Polish' or
some other such thing which cleans and seals quite nicely.
There is a product called NYALIC which, once 'painted' on, reportedly
seals the gelcoat on a relatively permanent basis - anyone had any
experience with this?
this?
|
| 253.6 | Ahhhhh...the *Magic Wadding* | HAZEL::YELINEK | WITHIN 10 | Thu Feb 02 1989 15:03 | 15 |
| re:-1 >For stainless, there's a product called 'Magic Wadding Polish' or
>some other such thing which cleans and seals quite nicely.
I believe you're refering to "Never Dull" which a previous noter
recommended. Comes in a can about 4" high & 4" in diameter.
I've used this stuff for years on the chrome on my motorcycle. Its
leaves a slightly oily appearance after applying the 'magic wadding'.
Follow this with the buffing using a towel and it shines beautifully.
I like the stuff and continue to use it however I question its ability
to 'seal' since its application is thin over essentially a non-porous
surface.
/MArk
|
| 253.7 | Two cents | USRCV1::FRASCH | | Mon Feb 13 1989 15:43 | 4 |
| FIBERGLASS:
I use Starbright "Marine Polish". Its not a wax at all but, some
sort of silicons treatment. It doesn't fade in the sun. Works great
on the stainless as well.
|
| 253.8 | Common task | PACKER::GIBSON | | Mon Mar 20 1989 14:06 | 17 |
| Amazing New Product.
It's called Raw Linseed oil. Works real well, lasts a long time
and is ceap by comparision.
I'll second Marks vote for never dull. I recived professional training
by my drill instructor in the Navy in Brass care and this is what
uncle sam recomends.
Turtle wax- What kind of turtle does it come from?? Beats Me. but
it works fine. 2-3 times year does it.
A couple more weeks and well be in the water too. Anybody want to
come to a commisioning party?
Walt
|
| 253.9 | when the party..! | HAZEL::YELINEK | WITHIN 10 | Wed Mar 22 1989 15:01 | 9 |
| >> A couple more weeks and well be in the water too. Anybody want to
>> come to a commisioning party?
Surrrrrrrrrre. Name the date.
When will Rainbow Chaser be in the water up in NebT.?
/MArk
|
| 253.10 | Milky Look to Fiberglass-HELP! | LUDWIG::CAPALDI | | Thu May 04 1989 03:44 | 26 |
|
Let The Boating Begin!!!!!
But Clean Up First!!!!!
Any suggestions on how to get out bad milky oxidation on fiberglass.
I have tried fiberglass rubbing compound by hand, but not with a
buffer. Help.....
NEVERDULL.....
I can second and third the vote for neverdull. I even used it to
get the exhaust stains off of the transom, as I have through the
hull exhaust.
For vinyl, I used a "shampoo" from some company called ------
Vinyl Shampoo----- of course. It can be seen in the catalogs such
as Barts and Ski Limited. The stuff comes in a plastic bottle.
|
| 253.11 | Try Penetrol | WEDOIT::JOYCE | | Thu May 04 1989 07:00 | 4 |
| Try Penetrol. It won't get rid of the oxidation but it will bring
back the shine. It has some kind of oil (linseed?) in it.
Steve
|
| 253.12 | A last resort | NRADM::WILSON | It doesn't get any better than this | Thu May 04 1989 08:49 | 9 |
|
If the hull is so badly oxidized that rubbing compound
won't help, try wet sanding with 600 grit paper and a
flexible sanding block. Do it first in an insonspicuous
spot to make sure it works. Then follow it up with some
polishing compound and wax.
Rick W.
|
| 253.13 | Pine Tar Remover Reccomendations? | FSDEV4::BSERVEY | Bill Servey | Wed Oct 03 1990 21:20 | 10 |
| The weekend before labor day I broke my shift cable - got me so pissed
that I left the boat - uncovered - and walked up from the dock not to
return for 5-6 weeks (even though its just across the street!)
I'd like personal reccomendations on pine tar remover for use on both
the seats and the fiberglass. My boat sits under a pine tree and its a
mess! I've used regular ol' automotive pine tar remover but it sitll
seems to take a lot of elbow grease and requires the use of scorch
green pads (really beats on the canvas) - any sugesstions are welcome!
|
| 253.14 | Cut the tree down or move the dock :^) | TOTH::WHYNOT | YNOT | Thu Oct 04 1990 07:43 | 5 |
| Either Pine-Sol or Lestoil dissolves sap pretty good. You souldn't use
any abrasives as they will scratch the fiberglass/scrape the upolstery
before the pitch comes out.
Good Lucck,
Doug
|
| 253.15 | I wish I could cut the tree down! | FSDEV4::BSERVEY | Bill Servey | Fri Oct 05 1990 10:10 | 10 |
| RE: -< Cut the tree down or move the dock :^) >-
I wish I could! See its a right-of-way on my neighbors property! Worse
than that, they want the tree down, but are merely tenants! Now the
real answer here is to move to a "real" lake where I could have a
mooring and not be encumbered by local "blue laws" - I'm on Lake Boon
in Stow, all of 175 acres and there's no-wake on Sunday's from 2-6pm.
Thanks for the tip on cheap alternatives!
Bill
|
| 253.16 | try gas - be careful | PENUTS::GORDON | | Fri Oct 05 1990 15:48 | 6 |
| I've used gasoline before to remove pine pitch from the paint on a car.
It works well but I have always washed the car imediately after. I
don't know if it will have any effect on fiberglass.
Gordon
|
| 253.17 | Too expensive | GOLF::WILSON | Marine Buyologist | Fri Oct 05 1990 16:05 | 8 |
|
RE: .16
Gasoline may work ok on the fiberglass. But it will do a number on
any tape stripes and especially on the upholstery, so it should be
avoided. Besides, who can afford to use gas as a cleaning product
now? 8^)
Rick W.
|
| 253.18 | | SHRFAC::MASSICOTTE | | Sat Oct 06 1990 16:35 | 12 |
|
Sounds like you have a lot of "spots" to clean up.
If you have a delicate surface with something adheared
to it, locate some dry ice. A small piece held in a pair
of pliers and layed against the sticky stuff makes it
loose it's adhesive qualities and can be easily removed.
Mineral spirits will also desolve the sap, with rubbing.
Fred
|
| 253.19 | Avon SSS | ROBOAT::HEBERT | Captain Bligh | Mon Oct 08 1990 09:19 | 3 |
| I've used Avon Skin-So-Soft to remove sap from my boat.
Art
|
| 253.20 | | VLNVAX::HEDERSTEDT | T.B.S. | Mon Oct 08 1990 12:02 | 7 |
|
Hold a ice cube on the spot to freeze the sap,Take a butter knife or
similar object to the sap edges to pop of most of the sap. Works
like a champ! Just be carfull not to scratch the surface. Mineral
spirts will clean up what is left.
Wayne
|
| 253.21 | Cheap trix | ULTRA::BURGESS | Mad man across the water | Tue Oct 09 1990 11:15 | 19 |
|
Not that I like to spend my time cleaning the boat, any of its
accessories or even the tow vehicle when there's better things to do,
like sk*, but....
I'm as cheap with my money as I am with my time, so,
anticipating gas to be 10c or 15c a gallon higher in Vermont this
week-end, I topped it up in New Hampshire. This isn't the first time
its cost me >$5 to save a nickel, I just about washed the stripe tapes
off the SeaRay trying to overfill it at the 2c a gallon cheaper pump.
Anyway, I now have a nasty stain on the ("canvas" ?) road cover, right
where the tank vent is, and the light blue rub rail plastic insert has
turned green where the gas sloshed down it (I s'pose it would be worse
if it was rope). HELP !!! I need canvas cleaner and presumably
some kind of re-waterproofer.
Reg
|
| 253.22 | paint thinner... | HYEND::J_BORZUMATO | | Tue Oct 09 1990 11:33 | 9 |
|
(just a minute) Boat hat off::::Woodworking hat on.
paint thinner will remove pine tar pitch without damaging your
gelcoat or your vinyl seats... Woodworking hat off :
Boat hat on: (that feels better)
JIm.
|
| 253.23 | WD-40 works | CGVAX2::HAGERTY | Jack Hagerty KI1X | Wed Oct 10 1990 11:24 | 3 |
| I have great luck with WD-40. Dont know about the seat coverings
or your gel. Would expect the boat would be fine, the seats --
dont know. Try it.
|
| 253.24 | Help on cleaning plastic curtains | GOLF::WILSON | Bill and Ted's Excellent Adventure | Mon Jun 10 1991 09:42 | 17 |
| Moved by moderator...
================================================================================
Note 852.0 HELP ON CLEANING PLASTIC CURTINS 1 reply
MENSCH::BURKE 11 lines 10-JUN-1991 09:24
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I made a mistake and stored my clear plastic side curtins in the cudy
of my welcaft. They were still a little wet from the rain and when I
took them out a week later it looks like some chemical action has
turned them a gray blue fog color. Anyone else ever have this
experience or know of any cure.
Thanks
Kevin
|
| 253.25 | Cleaning plastic curtains | GOLF::WILSON | Bill and Ted's Excellent Adventure | Mon Jun 10 1991 09:44 | 8 |
| Moved by moderator...
================================================================================
Note 852.1 HELP ON CLEANING PLASTIC CURTINS 1 of 1
SHERM::SHERMAN 1 line 10-JUN-1991 09:37
-< CLEANING PLASTIC CURTINS >-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A good car wax/cleaner should clean them.
|
| 253.26 | Cosmetic Maintenance Tips | GOLF::WILSON | Bill and Ted's Excellent Adventure | Mon Jun 10 1991 09:53 | 17 |
| Kevin,
Now that I've moved your question and a reply to it over here,
I'll reply myself. First, read thru the previous notes in this
topic.
The clouding of the plastic is because they have absorbed a
lot of water. Let them dry outdoors in a shady area away from
direct sunlight and they should be fine. Then clean and polish
them with non-lemon Pledge as mentioned earlier in this topic.
I tried it for the first time on my boat recently and it worked
great.
Be careful using an automotive cleaner/wax, some of them are
fairly abrasive and could leave fine scratches. Try Meguiars
plastic polish if they already are scratched or badly weathered.
Rick
|
| 253.27 | Cleaning a canvas mooring cover? | GOLF::WILSON | | Thu Apr 23 1992 10:52 | 10 |
| Moved by moderator...
================================================================================
Note 967.0 Cleaning a canvas mooring cover? 2 replies
SALEM::NORCROSS_W 4 lines 23-APR-1992 07:51
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Can someone recommend a good way to clean a canvas mooring cover?
It has a couple of small stains but basically it's just dirty from
being tied up under a tree for a few months.
Thanks, Wayne
|
| 253.28 | Simple | GOLF::WILSON | | Thu Apr 23 1992 10:54 | 22 |
| Moved by moderator...
================================================================================
Note 967.1 Cleaning a canvas mooring cover? 1 of 2
HYDRA::BURGESS 15 lines 23-APR-1992 08:01
-< Simple >-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
re <<< Note 967.0 by SALEM::NORCROSS_W >>>
> -< Cleaning a canvas mooring cover? >-
> Can someone recommend a good way to clean a canvas mooring cover?
Sure, find a volunteer (-:
Seriously, Simple Green is good stuff, I've only started
using it since I found it in gallon jugs at BJ's. I don't remember
the exact price, but it was a lot more reasonable than the little 4 or
6oz bottles were.
Reg {spring clean up enthusiast}
|
| 253.29 | | GOLF::WILSON | | Thu Apr 23 1992 10:58 | 18 |
| Moved by moderator...
================================================================================
Note 967.2 Cleaning a canvas mooring cover? 2 of 2
QETOO::WHYNOT "Malibu Skier" 12 lines 23-APR-1992 10:18
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last year I went to a coin-op laudromat, found the biggest machine they
had (a triple loader(?)) and proceded to spend quarters. Actually, I
called the manufacturer, and they suggested to wash it once with ivory
snow, then wash it again with no soap, then spin dry. You gotta
re-apply whatever waterprooffing afterwards. I used about 5 cans of
Scotch-guard, but wasn't to thrilled with the results or expense.
This year I'm gonna try Thomson's Water Seal applied with a garden
sprayer. (worked real well on my basement floor...).
BTW this is a cotton/blend mooring cover.
Doug
|
| 253.30 | Sounds good... | GOLF::WILSON | | Thu Apr 23 1992 11:03 | 13 |
| Moved by moderator...
================================================================================
Note 967.3 Cleaning a canvas mooring cover? 3 of 3
AIMHI::BORZUMATO 6 lines 23-APR-1992 10:57
-< sounds good... >-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have thought about putting Thomson's on my winter canvas.
Let us know how it goes...
JIm.
|
| 253.31 | | RTL::LINDQUIST | | Thu Apr 23 1992 14:07 | 22 |
| Last year I wanted to re-new the water-proofing on my cover.
I went to the hardware store, and put a gallon of stuff
intended for waterproofing tents. Went on nice, but one
gallon did less that 1/4 of the cover. At $20/gallon,
I wasn't about to continue with the same stuff.
I did use a pump-up garden sprayer. Next time I might use a
air spray gun. I think I'd get the same waterproofing
without having to soak the canvas quite as much.
So, I used Thompson's water seal. Very effective at
waterproofing. But, it stinks -- as in smells bad.
It still smells a bit like kerosene. It also darkened
the cover quite a bit, and took weeks to completely dry
out.
If I were waterproofing a boat cover, I'd use the Thompson's
again. If it were a dodger, or something that I had to
touch/smell frequently, I wouldn't.
- Lee
|
| 253.32 | they use??? | AIMHI::BORZUMATO | | Thu Apr 23 1992 14:34 | 6 |
| back when i bought the canvas, it had an odor to it + you could
feel something on your hands after hadling it.
what do they use at the factory to waterproof???
JIm.
|
| 253.33 | | CADSYS::GATULIS | Frank Gatulis 226-6140 | Wed Apr 29 1992 14:37 | 25 |
|
I had my mooring cover made by Johnson Canvas (in Auburn, I think).
I'm sure they could give you the scoop on waterproofing.
My mooring cover is 3+ years old and still sheds water like a duck. All
I've ever done (each season) is follow these instructions they gave me
when I bought it.
Cleaning info:
Cold water only
2 cups Clorox
1 cup Ivory Flakes
line dry only
I don't know if this does anything in the way of waterproofing or if the
original waterproofing stuff has just lasted this long. I've forgotten the
name of the fabric but it was relatively new back when I bought it. It's
on an 18ft boat and is lightweight enough that I doo it with ease in our
home washing machine.
Frank
|
| 253.34 | boat name suggestion | WISELY::FRASCA | | Thu Aug 01 1996 10:51 | 4 |
| I'm sure you've heard this one !
How about " Bates Motel "
|
| 253.35 | KNOTTY DREAMS | WMOIS::MELANSON_DOM | | Thu Aug 01 1996 15:51 | 2 |
| I just named mine KNOTTY DREAMS. The boat is in the process of being
documented now and the name should be on it as we speak.
|