| T.R | Title | User | Personal Name
 | Date | Lines | 
|---|
| 208.1 | ASH BREEZE! | AD::GIBSON | Lobst'a Ayh'a I'm the NRA | Thu Nov 17 1988 09:12 | 41 | 
|  |     Scott.
    I don't know where you live ? But you can find lot's of good plans
    at the Dracut Town Libary. Try the one in your town too. Funny thing
    it's not only the Large city libarys that have a lot of boat books.
    
    A very good source is the Pebody Museum in Salem MA. or you could
    look into a easy to build Phil Boldger design, He lives in Rockport
    look him up and give him a call.
    
    I'm partial to the old Francis Herrshoff designs, You can get a
    listing of all his plans from the Herrshoff museum in Newport.
    
    If your into High Tech stuff check out the Pratt Monfort designs
    of Dacron skin over Kevlar Geodedic Matrix. I know it's not WOOD>
    
    The Kittery Navel Musem would also be a good place to start as well
    as a subcription to Messing around in Boats 29 Burley St Wenham
    MA.       Also Wooden Boat Magazine is an excellent source.
    
    Depending on your expertise and time available you may want to scrounge
    around old marinas for long abandoned boats, quite often you can
    have these rellics just for the asking. I have turned down more
    free boats than you can imagine.
    
    As for building your first wooden boat, Keep it simple! I would
    go for a stich and glue or a stripper design because of simplicity
    and ease of construction for a beginner.
    Again if it's your first boat. Don't spend too much on material.
    Make it out of cheaper material like exterior ply instead of Bruynzeel
    Mahogany Plywood. You can allways build a second boat later out
    of good stuff if you like the design.
    
    As for glues and resins that is pretty much a personal choice, Some
    like WEST System epoxy over organic resins, I've even used good
    old Elmers wood glue for stich an glue, Works fine but glass over
    it!
    
                                                    Have Fun
    
                                                    Walt
    
 | 
| 208.2 | and ...Presto! (just add water) | HAZEL::YELINEK | WITHIN 10 | Thu Nov 17 1988 11:18 | 24 | 
|  |     I too have been lookin' at building a boat (simple dingy).  A neighbor
    loaned me a book called:
                                         BUILD THE NEW INSTANT BOATS
    
                                         by: Harold "Dynamite" Payson
    On the cover it says: Take plywood
                                  Cut to Shape
                                     Smear on Glue
                                         drive nails - stir paint
                   ....and Presto! - You have built an instant boat
     * A You-Don't-Have-to-Be-An-Expert Book *           
                                               (ISBN 0-87742-187-0)    
    From the books i've seen, this is about as simple as it gets. And...
    as another noter put it > You don't build a boat cause you need
    it....etc. You build a boat cause you want to build a boat! These
    boat plans, however simple, are going to take up some space in the
    cellar and take between 50-250 HRS. (depending upon complexity) to build.
    The noter I mentioned above, I believe is Ron Ginger? who hangs out
    in the Woodworking_and_tools file.> Check out the keywords note 7?
    There are many discussions about boat building.
    
    /MArk                              
    
    than 
 | 
| 208.3 |  | GONAVY::GINGER |  | Mon Nov 21 1988 10:24 | 20 | 
|  |     Ron Ginger reads BOATS as well as WOODWORKING_AND_TOOLS! And I always
    like to encourage potential new wood boatbuilders.
    
    Both previous replys mention Bolger and Payson, and together they
    are probably the best source for beginers. Bolger is the designer,
    Payson builds them and writes books- The first was called just INSTANT
    BOATS, the second of that series is BUILD THE NEW INSTANT BOATS.
    Some of these are pretty odd- one of them is a 30' folding schooner!
    (it actually folds inhalf to trailer).
    
    Payson was supposed to be a co-speaker, along with Doug Alvord,
    at our last TSCA meeting, but he doesnt like to speak in public,
    so Doug came alone. TSCA (Traditional Small Craft Assoc) meets monthly
    the first Tuesday of each month, in the Events room of the Peabody
    Museum in Salem. The leader of the club is Bob Hicks, the publisher
    of MESSING ABOUT IN BOATS. Its a low key group, mostly interested
    in non-motor boats, canoes,kayaks, sailing etc. Our programs generally
    alternate between builders and adventureres. The next meeting will
    be Dave Getchel talking about the new Maine Island Trail Association.
    Meeting is at 7:30, Tue Dec 6.
 | 
| 208.4 |  | HAZEL::YELINEK | WITHIN 10 | Mon Nov 21 1988 11:25 | 9 | 
|  |     
    
    
    
         .....guess I
    
                           forced you out of the WoodWork...so-to-speak
    
    
 | 
| 208.5 | Tiny Dory | TROA01::SWALKER |  | Mon Nov 21 1988 23:12 | 24 | 
|  |     Thank you for the informative replies. My Interest stems from a
    tiny Dory i saw (and took a picture of) in a cove off the coast
    of Newfoundland. It was tied to a buoy in the middle of the bay
    and was obviously used for transportation between the shore and
    a fishing boat. The picture is still in negative form but my
    recollection of it's size was under 6 feet. 
    I have a question as to the calculation of buoyancy. How do I calculate
    the size of the boat based on the weight of the cargo (me), or any
    other weight I might want to carry? My objective is to try and build
    the smallest possible boat with an acceptable level of stability.
    
    I was told that the calculation was as follows:
    
       For a square boat (easy) calculate area L * W say 3'X 5' = 15
    square feet * 1/12 feet (1") = 1.25 Cubic feet. Since 1 Cubic foot
    foot of water displaced = around 62 pounds this means each vertical
    inch of boat will carry (1.25 * 62) 77.5 pounds.
    
    Does this calculation make sense assuming of course that the boat
    does not change in angle or length in it's rise from the water?
    
    Thanks in advance, Scott
    
     
 | 
| 208.6 | Hey Buddy, Got some prop wash? | AD::GIBSON | Lobst'a Ayh'a I'm the NRA | Wed Nov 23 1988 10:19 | 30 | 
|  |     Thats fine Scott for a Square, However if the Square is to be paddled,
    it must have a design condusive to hydrodynamic flow. If you made
    a square boat and tried to paddle it you would create lift on the
    forward part of the hull causing the rear to take a dive. Results
    would be very wet!
    
    The longer you make your hull, the easier it will be to paddle andd
    if the width remains unchanged the wieght capacity will increase.
    
    If the sides of your boat are vertical, Adding more wieght will
    only increase draft, if you flare them outwards, Adding more wieght
    will increase draft with the coefficent to the slope of the angle.
    
    Starting to sound familler?
    
    There is Static stability and Dynamic Stability, You need a comprimise
    of both to make it work.
    
    Read up on some of the classic boatbuilders and get some boat design
    books before you start. I think you will find it will make the job
    go much easier and you finished boat will perform to your purpose.
    
    Most builder will build in Scale prior to the layup of a full hull,
    Even for a small boat. This will allow you to do "Sea Trials" on
    your boat before investing lot's of time and money.
    
                                                   Good Luck
    
                                                   Walt
    
 | 
| 208.7 | To float or not to float | TROA01::SWALKER |  | Mon Nov 28 1988 08:51 | 3 | 
|  |     I get the picture, there's more to this than sink or swim...
    
    Researchingly, Scott.
 |