| T.R | Title | User | Personal Name
 | Date | Lines | 
|---|
| 10.1 | COPPER KILLS ALUMINUM | REGENT::BURBINE |  | Wed May 18 1988 07:32 | 14 | 
|  | re:    I've heard that the new bottom paint (copper based) can wreak
    electrolysis havick with outdrives. Anyone know about this?
    Is this true or an exageration?
    
Bill,
It is not an exageration as copper paint will kill your outdrive
in a fairly short time. That is why you can not use copper on 
aluminum boats also. When I used to have outdrives I always used
Interlux 'TRI-LUX' This is a tin based paint that is compatable 
with aluminum. Yes tin based paints are outlawed in Mass now 
except for use on aluminum boats. (construed also outdrives)
norm
 | 
| 10.2 | What paint should I use? | NRADM::KARL |  | Wed May 18 1988 15:31 | 15 | 
|  |     I use INTERLUX on the outdrive itself, but have used Pettit Atlantic
    formula UNIPOXY on the boat. That, I believe, has a lot of copper.
    
    So I think that I have already been using this on my boat, which
    may be why the "sacrificial anode" is always half disintegrated
    by the end of the season. I had a new outdrive piston put on last
    year, and the eye at the end that attaches to the outdrive was
    partly disintegrated this spring when I looked at it. I might not
    have painted it with INTERLUX which could be the problem.
    
    Should I not have been using UNIPOXY, and if not, what should I
    use, TIN free? It's a fiberglass boat (with a MERC I/O). If I shouldn't
    be using UNIPOXY, should I sand it off (this could be a real job).
    
    Bill K.
 | 
| 10.3 | Corrosion/outdrives | REGENT::BURBINE |  | Thu May 19 1988 07:38 | 27 | 
|  | re: < Note 10.2 by NRADM::KARL >
   -< What paint should I use? >-
    I use INTERLUX on the outdrive itself, but have used Pettit Atlantic
    formula UNIPOXY on the boat. That, I believe, has a lot of copper.
    
    Bill
Everybody has a different opinion on this one but I believe the 
bottom line is:
1. Expect to use more than one zinc per season if you are in an 
active area. Noe sweat they are easy to change.
2. Use the biggest zinc you can. They come in two sizes for 
mercruisers but you may have to notch the big one a little to 
clear the tip of your prop.
3. Add an active corrosion control system to the unit. Mercruiser
has this as an easy add on option only about $100 or so.
4. It is ok to use copper on the boat but never on the outdrive.
Happy sailing
norm
 | 
| 10.4 | MICRON-33 PAINT | USRCV1::FRASCH |  | Tue May 31 1988 16:53 | 5 | 
|  |     I use Interlux "Micron-33" on the bottom (glass) and the Interlux
    I/O Spray on the I/O being careful to tape up the anodes when I
    spray. (3 on a Mercruiser) 
    
    Don
 | 
| 10.5 | NOW you tell me.... | CURIE::THACKERAY | Ray Thackeray MR03 DTN 297-5622 | Mon Jul 25 1988 14:28 | 19 | 
|  |     Oh, bloody great.
    
    I just finished painting the bottom of my Bayliner Sunbridge
    (Fibreglass) AND the Volvo 280 outdrive with copper based Interlux.
    I wasn't going to paint the drive, but my friendly-neighbourhood
    boatyard owner said I should, definitely, no problems.
    
    The boat went into the water this morning.
    
    Aaaaaaaaagggghh!
    
    Anyway, if I simply watch the zinc ring and replace where necessary
    throughout the season, will that protect my drive?
    
    Tally-ho,
    
    Ray 
    
    
 |