Conference unifix::sailing

    This stuff (Git-Rot) was discussed in the BOATS Conference on node
    VICKI, Note No. 49.  The conclusion was that it didn't work due
    to the fact that there was no way to bond the boundry between the
    consolidated rotted portion and the sound unrotted portion of the
    wood.  This means that sooner or later, the lump of solidified rot 
    would drop out of the rest of the structure.
               
    A second problem is that the material only penetrates the rotted
    wood leaving it surrounded by rotting wood which it dosn't effect.
    The rot process is underway for quite some time before you see the
    effects in the wood but the wood is penetrated by cielia (or something
    like that) and those have to be killed to stop the process.
        
    Regards,
    
    John

    In addition, even epoxies depend to some extent on fillers for
    strength. A big lump of epoxy is just a big lump of plastic; strong,
    but it's reinforcement in this case is just rotten wood. You have
    to ask if the epoxy itself supplies all the strength required.
    
    I would treat all these processes as snake oil.
    
    Ross Faneuf
    

   Why not replace the rotting timber and sleep nights knowing the problem
    is no longer rather than worrying what is happening......

    Thank you for the replies.  I'll check out the reference in BOATS.
    I guess my suspicions were well founded.
    
    Re .3 -- The house is very old, and because of the construction
    techniques popular at the time, it would (will) be very difficult
    to pull the old section out and replace it.  
    						Thanks,
    						>>>==>PStJTT

    I don't know where you're located, but be aware that in New England
    at least there are a number of builders who specialize in restoring
    old houses, many of whom are capable of repairing and/or duplicating
    early structural work. Don't give up on such a repair based on the
    first (or second or third) contractor's inexperience or unwillingness.
    You could start by giving Ted Haggett of Merrimac MA a call for
    advice (if you're anywhere in that area).
    
    Ross Faneuf
    

    Well, let's get this subject alive and back on boats!
    
    On my Alden 36, I have a large amount of wood on the outside of my
    bulwarks. Near the lower portion, I've got a 3/4 inch, semi-circular
    strip of teak pulling away from the plank below. I can stand above the
    gap (approx 30 inches in length) and see what looks to be the deck/hull
    joint, the stainless steel screws that used to hold it in place and a
    small amount of what looks like old epoxy.
    
    Question: How do I fix this? The particular strip is approx 6-8feet in
    length before it joins into the next portion that continues down the
    hull. I was going to find some way of pulling out the teak plugs to
    expose all the screws (methods please!), unscrew the wood, find out why
    it pulled out (rot?), fill the joint with life-caulk and re-glue and
    screw the wood back on.
    
    Is this the proper method? What should I use to glue the wood back on,
    or should I? 
    
    Suggestions please!!!!

    Extracting the bungs covering the screw holes is straight forward. 
    Tough to do without destroying them but replacement is easy too.  I
    have simply used a small screw turned into the bung and then pried it
    out with a hammer.  Careful doing this as the surrounding wood can
    splinter if it is done too fast.  Alternately they can be drilled out
    but again caution must be excercised so the head of the fastener is not
    marred.  They can also be dug out with a small blade.  Replacement bungs 
    are available in most ship's stores in a variety of sizes.  Epoxy the
    new ones back in place when you are finished.    
    
    Good luck,
    
    Brian
    

    Plug extraction isn't too difficult, provided a little care is taken. 
    The previous reply offers some good advice.  I've had good luck using a
    lathe tool with a curved blade whose diameter is less than the diameter
    of the plug.  Give it a light tap into the head of the plug, then twist
    gently.
    
    As to how to re-fasten the plank:  You probably won't know what you
    need to do until you get your teak off, or at least away from the hull. 
    Did you intend to pull the entire strip of wood, or just repair it in
    place?  
    
    It sounds as if your hull (or at least the bulwarks) is wooden.   If
    you're lucky, you just bonged into something that's pulled your trim
    (?) away.  Then, you might be able to get away with larger screws and
    bedding compound.  Another, stronger, possibility may be through-bolts
    and bedding compound. I'm not too sure about epoxy; aren't there
    delamination problems with teak and epoxies? 
    
    There've been a few notes about checking for rot.  This is something
    you'll want to look for.  If you pull the teak completely off, you can
    replace the rotten wood below.  When cutting rot out, make sure that
    you go well beyond the rotten portions, as that stuff is insidious.
    If you do have rot, and you can't replace the rotten wood just now,
    you'll probably want to through-bolt with a good backing plate.
    Remember that rot usually spreads, and doesn't go away.
    
    Is this an area where fresh water can sit?  If yes, then you might want to
    think of ways to eliminate standing water as standing fresh water is a
    real invitation to rot.