Conference noted::equitation

    Young horses are very delicate, and at the same time can turn sour
    very quickly.  Its very common with some breeds of horses for
    people to take advantage, especially when they are so big, bold and 
    well developed at an early age, but the most important thing is
    they may look very mature, but in most cases their minds arn't,
    infact some horses can be discribed as 'backward'.
    
    I think most people will agree that young horses, should be left
    alone, until an age when they can cope, and concentrate with tasks we
    ask them to perform. With my youngsters, I teach them in a different
    way, for their first few years, I walk them, getting them used to
    traffic, situations and the big wide world. Also I take them to shows
    this can be an experience in its self, for some babies.
    
    I dont know what the normal age for breaking is in the US, but
    3 - 4 years is the normal in the UK. Number one rule tho, is what-
    ever you do with a young horse, never let him get bored, always
    make his work interesting.
    
    Jayne
                                    

    
    Most if not ALL the excellent reining people start with a rawhide bosal
    or a snaffle bit.  And they use one or the other until the horse is
    completely trained -- walking, trotting, cantering, circling easily,
    figure eights, stopping...  before they EVER put a curb bit in the
    horses mouth.  All these transitions should be accomplished without
    ever getting 'into' the horse's face.  The movements should all be a 
    function of 'going forward'.  Or else you'll end up him running
    backwards into his spins, scotching on stops, etc. 
    
    Unless you are aiming for a reining futurity, it is advisable to take
    it real easy with your young horse.  Take him along like he is a
    'pleasure' horse -- let him get used to shows, shipping, clipping in 
    a relaxed atmosphere.
    
    I don't know where you live, but I suggested getting with a GOOD
    trainer even it means just going to clinics or for weekends.  You might 
    get ahold of some of the Richard Shrake videos.  
    
    Mary Jo
    

    I live in Epping NH but don't mind traveling anywhere. Teddy and I
    usually only work out for 15 - 20 mins about every other day. The rest
    of the time we go for walks in hand on the trails or just around the
    neighborhood. I have a Donell that is like a bosal only it is made of
    hollow peice of aluminum covered with sheepskin. It is very light but
    the way it is shaped makes it a little more severe than a bosal. I like
    to use it on horses that like to try to run away while on the long
    line. One good snap and they stop dead in thier tracks. I dont
    know yet if I'll use it on Teddy or not. He is soooo mellow for a baby 
    he probably wont need it. I can clip him with no problem. He stands
    on the cross ties. 
    
    Also my blacksmith said that I will have to start having him trimed 
    differently. He does not have shoes yet. Is that normal? I think he 
    said he would have to angle his heel more or somthing like that. I know
    some people use slide plates, are they put on just before a show or are 
    they on all the time? I know we have along way to go before we start
    any kind of sliding but I am just curious.
    
    Robin  

    
    Most don't use slide plates until the horse is completely trained.
    
    Slide plates help those nice long stops, but can cause havoc for a 
    horse learning to do flying changes and spins.

Slide plates make those nice long stops because they are slippery so please
consider not using them until you are ready to head into the show ring. 

Good luck with your baby!

    Thanx .4 & .5. (greased lightning... thats funny!)
    
    I am not even going to put reg. shoes on him till I start to ride him.
    But I was curious about if they use plates all the time. 
    
    Is there anything that I can teach him on the ground that will help us
    when I am on him? Right now if I stand beside him and put my finger on 
    his sides he will move his whole body sidways. If I put my finger
    further down his side he will move just his rear end. Little things
    like that have helped me out when I get on and use my legs in the same
    spots. Can anyone think of other things I can try. I like to be able to
    use all leg and very little rein. 
     
    ROBIN

    
    
    Well, you can use standard lunging and long lining exercises to teach
    him to walk, trot, canter, halt... on command as well as respond to 
    rein aides (turning, lateral work, etc.)

    
     RE:5 
      If reining is your goal, there are tons of ground work you could be
      doing, that once the horse learns them, are easily transformed to the
      saddle.
      Turns on the four-hand  and hind-quarters in preperation for
      side-passing. This will also teach the horse to move away from
      pressure. Backing and neck reining are also easily tought from the
      ground.
        
      Queue with a riding crop or pointy object and teach the horse to move
      away from this touch. Then substitute with pressure.
      - Turn on the four-hand is rear quarters to one side or the other, 
        while the horse pivits on a front leg. Queue is just behind the
        girth with a verbal queue "side".
      - Turn on the hind-quarters is the front moves to one side or the
        other while the horse pivits on a rear leg. Queue is on the shoulder
        just in front of the girth with the verbal queue "side.
        Teach one side first. When the horse is profficient in this, it can
        easily be tought from the other side.
      - Once the horse is working good both front and rear, both
        directions you can work on a side pass, which is both a turn on the
        four-hand and hind-quarters at the same time. If to the left, the
        horses right legs should pass in front of the horse left legs.
      - Backing is a good one. Teach the horse to keep backing untill
        you give him the queue to stop. Most horse will not continue
        backing. You need to keep asking. This is not the way it should be.
      - Neck reining from the ground. Using a lead and halter, from the
        left side. Lead the horse around and when you turn to the right,
        lay the lead against the horses neck down low by the whithers.
        For lefts, lead the horse from the right and neck queue for a left.
        This will help a great deal when you teach from the saddle.
      - Neck reining from the saddle with very light queues. Use a barn wall
        or fence and walk the horse straight at it. At the last second,
        queue for a turn by neck reinings. The horse will be straining to
        receiving your queue and will turn in the chosen direction. Each
        time, give a lighter and lighter queue for the turn. Soon he will
        respond to the lightest of queues.
    
        Good luck...I'm going thru the same with my new horse. She is
        learning and I'm learning but we've come a long way so far.
     
        Dave'    
      
      
    

    Some of my western horse magazines have some "GOOD" info 
    on this subject.
    Would you like copies of the articles?
           
    Lynne

    
    You can make a horse go back by pushing with light pressure on the
    breastbone with your thumb. If you do it in the right place the
    horse automatically backs. It is very effective and is a good
    start to teaching it the command, and very handy in tricky situations!
    

    RE .8 & .10
    
    	Thanx for the info!! I am glad to have something new to teach him.
      I will keep you posted on his progress. Dave, it will interesting to
      hear of each others' experiences. 
    
    RE .9 yes  I would like copies only I don't know what our mail stop is.
    APO something... I'll see if i can find out from someone. 
    
    	sorry to be so short but i have to go.............
    
    	Robin