| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 507.1 | Please help the Rookie | PBA::SILVA | | Wed Apr 20 1988 15:43 | 11 |
| In response to note 501.4 by CHGVO4::LEECH
Pat, Could you explain what you meant by "ponying"?
We have two horses who have been together for at least 6 years
(although we've only had them 3 months) and if they get seperated...
well lets just say that it is a hassle to ride alone. My husband,
who doesn't mind playing stable boy and doing ALL the barn chores,
has little to no desire to get on his "pony" (a very mellow 16 year
old QH mare) finding a willing friend is not always easy. Plus
I worry about them getting hurt or them hurting my horse!
ANY advice from anyone would be greatly appreciated !
|
| 507.2 | ponying | CHGV04::LEECH | DTN:474-2338 Chicago, Ill. ACI | Fri Apr 22 1988 07:25 | 31 |
|
Ponying is where you ride one horse and lead the other. This way
both of the horses get exercise and the fence doesn't get any abuse.
To do this all you need is a good halter and a 6 foot lead for the
led horse. Do not tie the rope to the saddle in case the led horse
spooks and you have to bail out. Be careful not to get the the
lead rope wrapped around you hand as the led horse could pull back
and break and/or remove your fingers. I use this as a good way
to help traffic break a young/green horse. I get on my old road
warrior (22 years old and bomb/traffic/accident proof), saddle up
the young one and head off into the country on the less traveled
roads. This helps the young one get used to the saddle, gives both
of the the miles that they need to keep in shape in less of my time
teaches the led horse how to maintain the proper distance and
eliminates any and all leading problems. I try to alternate between
walk, extended walk, jog and trot so that all of the horse muscle
groups get used and they come back tired but not worn out.
Hope this helps.
Pat
P.S. NEVER pony a horse that is wearing a bridle. They can tear
up their mouth very badly. Even with a snaffle. Always use a stout
halter and rope. Murphy never takes a holiday.
Regards
|
| 507.3 | ..But you can dally | GENRAL::BOURBEAU | | Fri Apr 22 1988 09:59 | 9 |
| Good point about not tying the lead to the saddle or wrap around
your hand,however,if you have a good western saddle on your horse,
and if the horse being poniedis green or a little reluctant,you
can borrow a tactic from team ropers. Just take a couple of turns
around the horn with the lead rope. This gives you the required
leverage,but in an emergency,you only have to let go of the rope
to turn the horse being led loose.
George
|
| 507.4 | horn helps! | KEATON::FOX | A momentary lapse of reason... PF | Fri Apr 22 1988 11:58 | 5 |
| I agree with George about a couple of turns around the horn if using
a western saddle (which is immensely easier!). Using the horn gains
you some leverage and saves alot of wear and tear on you!
Linda
|
| 507.5 | Easy on the arm! | BSS::ZINN | | Tue Apr 26 1988 10:48 | 2 |
| The use of the horn also lets the lead horse be the one pulling,
rather than you if the led horse balks.
|
| 507.6 | more tips for ponying | CHGV04::LEECH | DTN:474-2338 Chicago, Ill. ACI | Tue Apr 26 1988 14:57 | 19 |
|
I always dally around the horn when working with the green/young
ones. I didn't one time and ended up with a dislocated shoulder
when the led one spooked at a piece of paper. I came off the one
I was riding and landed on my shoulder. Major pain for about six
weeks. I was in the pasture at the time and assumed that since
I was in there I didn't need to dally. Big mistake. The other
thing is that the led horse should always lead on the off side with
his head/muzzle even with your knee and with about 12 to 18 inches
of slack in the rope. This gives him enough room to be comfortable
and still let you keep control. Keeping him on the side toward
the ditch/gutter/curb will prevent him from spooking and swinging
his butt out into traffic and possible getting hit. You just have
to remember to give him enough room so that he doesn't run into
things or feel cramped.
Pat
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