Conference noted::equitation

    Bonjour Rene,
    
    You might try a product called "Leather New" it's a liquid glycerine
    saddle soap that you spray on a cloth and clean the saddle (or any
    leather item) with.  It would be very good for everyday cleaning,
    but you'll find that you don't always have time to clean your tack
    everyday anyway.  If you use a saddle pad under the saddle, that
    will help keep your saddle cleaner.  For 'deep' cleaning, you can
    probably use the same product, but you may want to oil your saddle
    when you 'deep' clean it to keep it supple.  Be careful of using
    too much 'Neatsfoot' oil on the stitching, because it tend to rot
    the cotton thread after a while.  You might try using a toothbrush
    to get into the engraved areas of the saddle, and use a suede cleaner
    if you have a suede covered seat.  4 times a year should be good
    enough for 'deep' cleaning, especially if you have been cleaning
    it once a week.

    For that really grungy/dirty saddle w/lotsa deep engraving I'd
    recommend this.
    1.)Buy a battery powered shoe shine kit (should have a soft bristle/
    and several buffer pads with it)
    2.)A wide mouth jar of Murphy's oil soap----very good an gentle
    3.)A bucket w/clean water
    4.)Take said brush---swish in clean water---insert into jar of Murphy's
    turn on brush to get soap onto brush....
    5.)Apply brush w/soap to saddlewith brush running (of course sillly)
    6.)Let saddle dry
    7.)Using the buffer pads(supplied w/machine)lambswool I think
    apply a generous amount of your favorite leather oil directly
    to pads and again turning on machine .Apply onto saddle.......
    
    This works great---my wife got me this shoeshine kit/saddle cleaner
    for Chrismas.....I now no longer have a grungy/dirty saddle...
    
    
    Cheers/applause						gary
    

    
    For a really grungy saddle (and braid reins!) try putting a small
    amount of Mr Clean (yes, Mr Clean) in the water that you are using
    with your glycerine soap. Be sure to oil your saddle (and reins)
    after you do this. And only use this technique occassionally. The
    toothbrush method is very good.
    
    Nancy
    

    
    I have also found that LEXOL cleaner works well.  It does make
    oiling your leather a requirement after cleaning 'cause it dries
    it out.
    
    I currently use the kind of reins that are canvas like, with leather
    ends and stops.  This avoids the every day cleaning problems.  They
    clean up great in the washing machine!  Again the leather parts
    get dry after this and must be oiled, I'd rather do that than clean
    braided leather ones!  I save the tough to clean nice stuff for
    the shows.                                             
    
    Dani

    How about the care of a NEW saddle?  I've heard that there is a
    wax(?) or coating of some type on it.  And that this should be
    deep cleaned off.  Doesn't seem to make a lot of sense to deep clean
    a brand new saddle....  
    
    your advice is welcome!
    
    Cher
    

    I bought a new saddle last fall and after I got it and made sure
    it fit both me and my horse I cleaned it with regular saddle soap
    and then gave it a good coating of oil.  The cleaning and oiling
    helps the saddle break in easier and faster.  I cleaned and oiled
    the saddle again about 3 weeks later to get rid of the last of the
    wax and to make the leather even more pliable.  
    
    P.S.  New saddles cannot be returned after they are cleaned and
    oiled so make sure it fits before you do this.  I also wrapped both
    of my stirrup leathers in old towels so that I didn't get any strap
    marks on the flaps and used an oversized saddle pad so that I was
    sure that there were no sweat marks on the underside.  
    
    
    Pat

    New saddles are covered with a waxy coating to keep them new
    and fresh (and not moldy/stained) while awaiting sale.  This coating
    should be removed before normal cleaning and breaking-in, mostly
    because the coating prevents absorption of moisture and oil.  The
    coating is not easily removed with glycerine based saddle soap.
    In fact, DIRT is not removed with saddle soap.  Saddle soap's purpose
    in life is to condition leather already clean leather.  You want
    to condition the leather, not the dirt.
    
    I use Murphy's oil soap or castile soap for cleaning.  Some of the
    commercial cleaners (lexol or fitform) work well but they tend to
    dry out the leather more than I like. I use saddle soap everyday
    after getting my tack clean and oil every few weeks.  Depending
    on the finish of the leather, I may only oil the underside of the
    saddle.  I don't like oil stains on my breeches and some leathers
    just don't like to absorb oil, particulary those with a glazed type
    finish. Bridle leather isn't one of those finishes; it will absord
    lot's of leather.
    
    

    	A word of caution,,if your new saddle is light in color,and
    you like it that way,some leather conditioners will darken it.
    Neatsfoot oil is notorious for this. This doesn't hurt the saddle,
    but if you want to maintain the original color,be sure to check
    that the conditioner won't darken it.
    
    	George
    

    I always wondered why there were two kinds of neatsfoot oil - pure
    and compound.  Being a little dense it took me a while to read the
    directions.  Pure Neatsfoot will darken leather and the compound
    isn't supposed to. For light leather, I use Lexol and avoid oiling
    the exterior surfaces.
    
    Maureen
    
   
    

    A little late but I get there
    
    
    	I have a 30 year old saddle.  2 years ago I went to Florida to work
    on my aunts breeding farm.  I left my saddle there for 6 months before
    I could have it sent back.  When it finaly arrived It was GREEN!  I
    used Murphys and a tooth brush.  After 3 days of intense cleaning, I
    finaly found leather.  I have always used Murphys and an oil made up of
    olive oil, neetsfoot, and carocen(sp?).  I have never had a problem
    with that.  I can't say the saddle looks new, but it is still used
    daily and is the most comfortable one I have.
    
    
    virginia

    Re 222.9 -< where do they get neatsfoot oil from, anyway? >-
    
    Six years later, he stumbles across the note and says "Oh, I know that."
    Formfeed inserted for those who don't want to be grossed out...
    
    Neatsfoot oil is obtained by boiling the feet and shin bones of
    slaughtered cattle.