| T.R | Title | User | Personal Name
 | Date | Lines | 
|---|
| 2873.1 |  | WMOIS::GIROUARD_C |  | Mon Oct 31 1994 06:52 | 7 | 
|  |     I use Blackburns and like it for what I do (same things you've 
    mentioned). I also built my Merlin on it. 
    
    The things I like are the ability to rotate the clamp 360 degrees
    and it folds up.
    
     Chip
 | 
| 2873.2 |  | STOWOA::SWFULLER |  | Mon Oct 31 1994 12:24 | 4 | 
|  |     Use one with a clamp, ie Blackburn, then clamp it to the seatpost.
    Price for one of this type run about $100.00
    
    steve
 | 
| 2873.3 | Ultimate's pretty good too. | DNEAST::FIKE_MIKE |  | Tue Nov 01 1994 06:02 | 13 | 
|  |     
    I have a Park consumer model stand; about $110 plus another $15 for a
    tool tray (comes in very handy for holding all the odd bits and tools).
    
    I read a lot of good things about the "ULTIMATE" workstand- but it's
    fairly expensize. Nice if you've got space issues as it folds up into a
    small (sort of) carrying pouch. You can also get a somewhat flimsy
    wheel truing stand that attaches to it.
    
    DON'T forget to clamp your bike by the seatpost, NOT the tubes;
    aluminum isn't very forgiving of being squeezed too tight.
    
    Mike
 | 
| 2873.4 |  | WMOIS::GIROUARD_C |  | Tue Nov 01 1994 07:17 | 13 | 
|  |     <- Ti's not a problem... :-)
    
       Actually, I used my Blackburn on C Dale and use it on my TREK 7000
       which is aluminum also. All I've ever done is put an old piece
       of sweatshirt in between the jaws and clamping to the top tube
       with no problems. 
    
       Actually, it would take an inhuman amount of force to squash a
       cylinder like the top tube (cylinders are one of the strongest
       configurations around and clamps deliver fairly consistent force
       all the way around). But, it's the paint that you want to save...
    
       Chip
 | 
| 2873.5 |  | EXPERI::MENTAL | Got me a caffeine jones! | Tue Nov 01 1994 08:05 | 12 | 
|  | 
>    I have a Park consumer model stand; about $110 plus another $15 for a
>    tool tray (comes in very handy for holding all the odd bits and tools).
    
	Mike,
	I've been thinking about buying a Park Consumer stand. How do you 
	like it? Is it stable? I've been trying to decide between the Consumer 
	stand and the heavier Park stand that sells for about $150. 
	/ken
 | 
| 2873.6 | Depends on the Ti... | EDWIN::HARVELL |  | Tue Nov 01 1994 08:51 | 20 | 
|  | Re.4 
It depends on the Ti that you have.  I have a frame made by Mike Augspurger 
that is double butted, by hand.  Anyway when Mike was building the frame up
it slide in the stand and he dimpled the top tube.  Its very small and has 
no affect on the frame but I did get a very very good deal on the frame...
As far as workstands I have an Ultimate and it is very good.  I bought it at
Naults in NH when they were having Super Sale for about $145.00.  Its super
easy to use and holds everything steady.  I only got the stand as I have a 
better truing stand and other tools.   All of the reviews that I saw for the 
Ultimate workstand were very good and I would only back them up having owned
it now.  Great if you want to travel with it also.
I only clamp my bikes, six between my wife and I, on the seat tube.  With 
the adjustability of the Ultimate workstand I have always been able to get 
it into the position that I want.  I have built up bikes on this stand and 
done all repairs.
Scott
 | 
| 2873.7 | Yup, but... | WMOIS::GIROUARD_C |  | Tue Nov 01 1994 09:20 | 8 | 
|  |     <- I would agree with you... Ti is soft and easily dents when
       struck. Uniform pressure and a little guarded use of the clamp
       should never damage a tube. 
    
       Some people may not have enough seatpost to clamp on to. And if
       they are alzy like me probably won't raise it use the clamp on it.
    
       Chip
 | 
| 2873.8 |  | NOVA::FISHER | Tay-unned, rey-usted, rey-ady | Tue Nov 01 1994 11:09 | 7 | 
|  |     one ham-handed way to damage a seat tube with a clamp is to
    close the clamp onto a water bottle braze-on bolt.
    
    NO, NO, NO I've never done this but I do know someone who
    did and he has worked at most of the bike shops in Southern NH.
    
    ed
 | 
| 2873.9 |  | WMOIS::GIROUARD_C |  | Tue Nov 01 1994 11:43 | 3 | 
|  |     <- Lemme guess... The guy blamed it on a frame defect, right?
    
       Crashing works well too! :-)
 | 
| 2873.10 | Yeah, it's stable.. | DNEAST::FIKE_MIKE |  | Tue Nov 01 1994 13:05 | 12 | 
|  |     
    
    	re:.5
    	
    		I like it pretty well. It's stable and the clamp holds
    tight enough to rotate the bike into different positions. The "Y" legs
    fold up easily it you need to hang it up, but I'm not cramped for space
    where I have it so I just leave it up all the time and hang my bike up
    on it after a ride to clean and adjust. I haven't tipped it yet.
    
    
    Mike
 | 
| 2873.11 | Whoops should have said seat post not tube... | EDWIN::HARVELL |  | Thu Nov 03 1994 09:04 | 18 | 
|  | I ment to say that I only clamp my frames by the seat post not the seat tube.
The adjustability of the Ultimate workstand lets me swing the frame around in 
any position to work on any part of the bike.  I can raise it high enough to 
hold the bike by the seatpost and work on the bottom bracket (this was one 
of my main reasons for buying this stand, none of the others would extend very 
high) and it will go low enough so that I can spin the bike upside down to 
work on it.
While I  it.
While I will agree that one can clamp on the tubes if one is careful.  I am more
concerned that when working on some things, like taking off cranks or removing 
bottom brackets, that it is very easy to torque the frame which can twist the 
frame in the grips and damage it.  Not that I would would ever be ham handed or
careless when working on bikes - not me!!! :^)
Scott
 |