Conference noted::bicycle

    I don't see that there should be any problems here, Buddy. You don't
    say if you're building the wheels yourself or not, but the 2 things
    that need to be right are (a) chainline and (b) wheel dishing. The
    first is correct when the middle sprocket of a 7-speed is in line with
    the middle of the 2 chainrings. It's adjustable by hub/casette spacers 
    and/or BB spindle. The second is correct when the wheel rim is centred
    between the dropouts. This is adjusted by the wheel builder.
    
    Chris 

    Thanks for the reply Chris, I'm planning on having a shop build the
    wheels for me since I don't have the experience or the tools.  I'd
    prefer to have it done by an experienced wheel builder since I'll be
    using quality parts (probably mavic MA40 rims).

    The 7 speed Ultegra hubs are only $59.99/set thru Performance, while
    the American classic and Phil Wood brands are almost twice as much.

    I'm leaning toward Ultegra.  Anyone using the Ultegra, American
    Classic, or Phil Wood stuff care to comment?
    
    Buddy

Buddy,


I would not suggest going through a catalog and then bringing the components to
a local shop to get the work done. Most bike shops don't the the words
(Performance, Nashbar etc...). I would probably suggest getting the prices at 
a shop first and find out how much they will charge you for a handbuilt set.
This way they could suggest the spoke pattern, mirror image lacing etc.. I
would bet that some places would come pretty close or even match the
Performance hub prices if you let them do all the work. Also, if you have any
problem, a local shop will take care of it on the spot if they want to keep you
as a customer while you would have to send the hubs or the wheels back if you
mail order.

As for the hubs, I ride on Ultregra and Campy Records and never had any problem
with ether one of them. But the Campy is definitly alot smoother and higher
quality. The campy stuff is expensive but it will last forever. Phil Wood and
AC also has a good reputation and I don't think you will go wrong with the seal
bearing hubs (Little Maintenance).

If you buy the Shimano Ultregra, you could swap the interchange teh freewheels
between the two wheel set. If you buy the PW or AC, I am pretty sure you have
to purchase a freewheel. Guess what! I don't think Shimano doesn't make a
Hyperglide freewheel and it is thought to find a 7sp Ultregra free. SO you will
end up dishing $50 for a Dura Ace freewheel. But Phil and AC are made in USA..

Good Luck,

Dave


                     

Dave,

>I would not suggest going through a catalog and then bringing the components to
>a local shop to get the work done. Most bike shops don't the the words
>(Performance, Nashbar etc...). I would probably suggest getting the prices at 
>a shop first and find out how much they will charge you for a handbuilt set.

I agree with you on this point and have always tried to get most stuff I
needed at local bike shops.  I like supporting the local economy and enjoy
the personalized service I get.  I also enjoy the little fringe benefits of
being a valued customer.

However, some of the prices for hubs and rims (and even handbuilt
wheelsets) offered by the catalogs are just too good to be ignored.  Not
that I have given up on the local shops for this, yet, though.  Here is
a list price chart:

Item                     Local shop (US$)       Performance Catalog
----                     ----------------       -------------------

Shimano Ultegra hubset       ~100.00                 59.98
Mavic MA40 Rims (2)          ~120.00                ~60.0

That's almost twice as much at the local shop, but I will try to talk to
them and see if they come down any.

>If you buy the Shimano Ultregra, you could swap the interchange teh freewheels
>between the two wheel set. If you buy the PW or AC, I am pretty sure you have
>to purchase a freewheel. Guess what! I don't think Shimano doesn't make a
>Hyperglide freewheel and it is thought to find a 7sp Ultregra free. SO you will
>end up dishing $50 for a Dura Ace freewheel. But Phil and AC are made in USA.

That's too bad.  I'd love to buy US, but not if I have to shell out an
additional $50.  (Pretty ironic that in order to buy US, I have to buy $50
worth of Japanese goods - oh well).

Thanks for your input,

-Buddy

    
    
    While the prices are pretty difficult to ignore, a bike shop will
    usually want $25 or more to build a wheel. You really have a few
    choices:
    
    * Unless you want a special lacing pattern, let Performance build
      them. It's really cheaper than taking them to a bike shop. 
    
    * Build them yourself. I built a wheel this year that is still true. 
      I've had two different bike shops look at the wheel this year, 
      and even after 600 miles the wheel is nearly perfect. It took me
      a spoke wrench ($3.00), Bicycling Magazine (March 1992?), and 
      "The Plain Gauge Guide to Wheelbuilding" (another note in this 
      conference), and about 3 hours. A truing stand would have made things
      a LOT easier, but it is not necessary. A worse case, you could get
      the wheel VERRY close and have the bike shop put the final true in 
      them for some small fee ($5-$8).
    
    * Let the bike shop build them. I'm willing to bet that they would 
      want $50 to build a pair, and that like :-2 said, they would cut
      you a deal on the parts and bring the total to nearly the same as
      buying the parts from Performance. 
    
    
    I personally , I'd go for letting Performance do the work for 
    a standard 3 cross pattern. For a custom pattern, I'd do the 
    lacing and initial truing myself. Wait for a rainy day, put on 
    some music and take your time. 
    
     
    
    
    doug 

>However, some of the prices for hubs and rims (and even handbuilt
>wheelsets) offered by the catalogs are just too good to be ignored.  Not
>that I have given up on the local shops for this, yet, though.  Here is
>a list price chart:

>Item                     Local shop (US$)       Performance Catalog
>----                     ----------------       -------------------

>Shimano Ultegra hubset       ~100.00                 59.98
>Mavic MA40 Rims (2)          ~120.00                ~60.0

>That's almost twice as much at the local shop, but I will try to talk to
>them and see if they come down any.

Buddy,

I just check with the service manager at the shop I worked at and he gave me
the follow quote:

 Item                     Local shop (US$)     Performance 
 ----                     ----------------     ------------

 Shimano Ultegra hubset       $230.00             167.95 + shipping   
 Mavic MA40 Rims (2) (32)     
 DT Spokes                    
 Labor                        
                              
                                           
 He indicated since Mavic got more popular, they have cut allot of distributors
 and am selling direct. So they are making a larger profit due to popularity.
 Performance probably purchased a large quantity of these prior to the price
 increase so they are selling them at last years price. 

 This situation comes up a lot at the shop and the only thing we can offer is
 better service like no spoke breakage and free truing for 1.5 years on new
 handbuilt wheels. He indicated the catalog house usually lace there wheels by 
 machine and then it is fine tuned by hand instead of actually building the
 complete wheel by hand. 

 So we probably loss a lot of customer to catalogs these days.

 Read the book on "How to build a Wheel" published by Avocet if you plan to 
 build it yourself. I have built all my own it is pretty relaxing. You kind
 of appreciate the bike ride a little more.
                                           

    A small suggestion:
    
    Mail-order shops sell built wheels.
    
    Both Nashbar & Performance are having their post-christmas sales
    right now. Some pretty decent prices to be had, even with UPS charges.
    
    Quality? Not a spokesman, but I bought a pair o' MTB wheels two years
    ago from Nashbar (Deore LX hubs, Ritchey Vantage narrow rims) for under
    $90 bucks. They've held up well, even with massive abuse.
    
    NOTE: IF you've never laced/tensioned/trued a wheel before, do not
          do it yourself now. It takes practice, and a few mistakes to
          be able to produce a reliable wheel. Yes, you can do it your-
          self, but it is an acquired talent. Tensioning a wheel isn't
          easy, and can be the deciding factor in how long your wheels
          will survive. (2 cents worth from a party-pooper) Experiment
          with inexpensive, or older equipment, developing your skills.
          Spokes are getting just too darned expensive these days. And
          the prices on those hubs/rims, man. I's remember when spokes
          were sold in boxes of 100, for less than $8. Anyone remember
          Torrington spokes? Fiamme gold label rims? Ah, memory lane.

I've got a Shimano 7 speed HG cassette on my Trek 2100 with 105SC.  I'm
interested in getting some easier gearing for a biking trip to Vermont.  I'd
like to replace the existing cassette with the Maillard Aris 13-28 freewheel.
I'll then leave it on since the old cassette is getting pretty worn.

Is this part going to work as good as the OEM cassette?  

Is the Maillard a cassette or a freewheel?  Does it matter?  

If I tried to change it myself do I need a chainwhip or just the freewheel
removal tool & a vice?  

Is it easy to do?

Lastly, has anyone use a tool called the Hypercracker?

Thanks for the input!
Ray

    You can't replace a cassette with a freewheel.  You would need a new
    wheel.
    
    ed

    You could replace it with a Shimano 12-28, $23 from Performance.  You
    might need a longer chain too.
    
    Andy