| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 2371.1 | just move the pads in/out | YNGSTR::BROWN | | Tue Aug 04 1992 15:39 | 5 |
| I just move the pads in to the point where they best accomodate whatever
action results from the brake lever's squeeze... sort of tuning up
the entire system by just getting the last thing in the process to work
right. FWIW, I was told not to take XT Rapid Fire Plus brake levers
apart.
|
| 2371.2 | how to do it (mostly) | DNEAST::FIKE_MIKE | | Wed Aug 05 1992 06:34 | 29 |
|
I just upgraded my MTB Shimano 200GS brake levers to Deore, so I
can tell you what works for me (may not be gospel according to
Shimano).
You have basically 4 adjustments; a screw/cam device under the
lever that controls the reach of the lever- adjust this one first with
your cables loose to where the reach of the grip feels comfortable to
you; the second one to do is the down cable that goes into the
adjustment thingy that the cross cable (the one over the tire) hooks
on. The third one is the cross cable and the last one is the fine
tuning adjustment on the lever.
Do this- after you've adjusted the lever reach to where you want
it. The cross cable should probably be o.k. where it is; screw the fine
adjustments nuts all the way in on the levers (so you have maximum
adjustment later so you don't have to make major ones so often). Then
hold the brake pads close to the rim (with your hand or a "third hand
tool"). loosen the adjustment nut and pull the cable tight and
retighten the adjustment nut. Try the brake; adjust the fine tune until
the wheel spins with no drag, but locks up with the lever pulled no
closer than 3/4" to the handlebar.
There are also pad adjustments which you can use to set the pads
in/out up/down so they meet the rim and don't hit the tire. They also
adjust the "toe-in" of the brakes so that the leading edge of the shoe
touches the rim first (prevents squeaking brakes).
Richards Ultimate Bicycle book ($29.95) has a very good pictured
section that shows all this in detail.
|
| 2371.3 | | PIPPER::GOOD | | Wed Aug 05 1992 10:37 | 14 |
|
There is another note on brake adjustment with good info on
the pad adjustment.
I just finished building my MTB and I have the factory instructions
on the brake installation and adjustment. There is a tool that is
available. It is a bridge that holds the top of the cants so you can do
the cable thing. Otherwise the previous reply and the other note are
accurate.
One thing-the XT low profile compared to the regular is a much
more elegant design. The pads are gimbaled and you squeeze them tight
and sock them down and everything comes out perfect. The pads
themselves have little posts that perform the toe-in automaticly.
Roger
|
| 2371.4 | | ESKIMO::HUI | | Wed Aug 05 1992 12:14 | 6 |
| There is also another adjustmnt hex screw on one of the brake calipers. The hex
screw is to fine tune the brake calipers spring tension is equal. When you
squeeze the lever, both caliper should move, not just one.
Dave
|
| 2371.5 | Calaper mounting bracket holes adjust retract force | COMET::PAPA | VOTE LIBERTARIAN | Sun Sep 06 1992 19:36 | 5 |
| In addition to .4 their are three holes for the retract spring on the
mounting bracket for the calapers. Selecting one or the other of these
holes changes the retract force on either calaper. In my case I have to
have one set for more force then the other to get both sides to retract
equally.
|