| Ron,
I rode the entire path about 10 years ago, in the DC to Cumberland
direction (uphill, that is.) Of course the "hills" at each of the
locks do not present too much of a challenge, just a bit of variety!
There was a booklet published by the Boy Scouts, I believe, called "186
Miles of Adventure," describing the path, camping areas, etc., and I
think there also are some National Park Service publications which
would be helpful. There are interesting histories available; the
canal was never really an economic success I believe, since it was
built so soon before the railways came into force.
I'm not aware of any shelters along the path (except those that are
inhabited by Park Rangers), and camping is best done in tents. There
are plenty of campsites and they never seemed to be too full, used
mostly by Scout groups and the like on weekends. When I cycled the
whole length, I spent two nights and carried everything I needed (which
wasn't much) on the back of my trusty (at the time) Ross 10 speed
sport-touring bike.
As for the path, it varies quite a bit. There are parts,
especially toward the DC end, which are of very smooth hard-packed dirt
and are easy for cycling and are wide enough to easily cope with the
traffic of walkers, joggers and cyclists in both directions. There are
a few stretches, in particular one near Great Falls, where it is too
rocky for riding and where pushing or carrying your bike will be
required, but they shouldn't present too much of a problem. There are
(or were, at least) also stretches where the path is somewhat overgrown
and therefore very narrow and somewhat difficult; these were more
toward the Cumberland end. (In fact, on my last day there was a nasty
encounter between some of the undergrowth on the trail and my rear
derailleur, and I had to ride the last 30 miles or so in high gear!)
The canal is very scenic in places, but unfortunately there are
other areas where the water level is at a very low level and
stagnant...good mosquito territory! There are also opportunities to
see the Potomac, especially around the camping areas...you could take
fishing gear if you felt like it. Real highlights are the Great Falls
area, where I recommend you spend a little time exploring on foot as
there are some good trails and a Park nature center, and the Paw-Paw
Tunnel, which is nearly a mile long as I recall, and DARK...bring
headlamps for your bikes.
I spent two great summers using the towpath as part of my
summer-job commute, in the Chain Bridge-Glen Echo-Great Falls section;
a great way to start and finish the day, as that's a beautiful and
relaxing stretch of trail. Oh yeah, be prepared for a little mud
during wet weather!
If you're taking kids, it might be more fun to start from
Cumberland, as the trail gets easier toward DC, which might make the
prospects seem more encouraging as legs begin to tire. Of course going
the other way gives the trip more of an "into the country adventure"
feel. What the heck, do the round trip!!
Have fun..............Rob (former Northern Virginian!)
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