Conference noted::bicycle

     The chain does not have a play in the gearing other than it does need
    to be the appropriate length to get to the small gears. If the chain is
    too short you won't get all of your gears and it will place a tremen-
    dous strain on the derailleur springs, pulley wheels, and chain. You
    may even find it will shorten cable life because you'll find yourself
    squashing the lever down to get that last small gear.
    
     My $.02
    
         Chip

    too long a chain may result in sloppy shifting, noisy chain drag,
    an uncool bike appearance , and even picking up dirt and stuff from the
    road.
    
    You need "Baby Bear's" chain which is "just right."
    
    There's more than one note in here on how to achieve that exquisite
    balance.
    
    ed

	I am sure there will be some-one else in this conference who has had to
shorten the new chain he bought and would be prepared to give you these "spare"
links so you don't have to splash out on a complete new one.  I'd give you my
Sedis ones but I have calculated that if I buy another 10 I will have a "free"
one by connecting up the bits      ;>)

BTW That's another reason for sticking to the same model.......

    
    Or... this may be your chance to move to a straight block!
    
    -john

    This is how to set the chain lenght on geared bikes.
    1. Set the rear changer to the lowest gear ( largest diameter ).
    2. Set front changer to the highest gear ( largest diameter )
       This insures the max lenght of chain condition.
    3. Weave the chain through the rear changer pulleys and gear then up 
       through the front changer and gear , NOTE:: use the end without the
       the pin protruding on it.
    4. Once complete draw both ends together until the rear changer is
    fully extended ( the lower pulley pulled out towards the front )
    5. Start adding more links ( by reducing the chain tension ) until you
       can get at least 1/2 " deflection on the middle top part of the
       chain by lightly pushing down on it with your indeg finger . the 
       deflection should be 1/2 to 1" on non SIS system . SIS should be
       1 to 2" to allow better shifting.
    6. Mark the link and press out the excess ( save the excess for repair)
       taking precaution not to push the pin completely off the link. If
       you allow 1/32" or .030" of the pin to protrude inwards it will be
       easier to install the chain cause the links will stay together.
       how ever you will have to spread them appart slightly to get it out.
    7. Derail the chain off the front gear for a relaxed posistion press
       the link in and remove drag on the link . ( USE CHAIN TOOL )
    8. go to the other extreme condition ( lowest front highest rear ) 
       check for the lower chain if it hangs down ,
       No = test and lubricate .
       Yes = a. your rear changer is not capable of enough chain pull for
                that gearing. Cage too short or weak springs .
             b. chain too long reduce the lenght , check other extreme 
                condition when done.

     Or measure it up against the old chain (+) what you may have
    removed... :-)
    
       Chip

    Or go for fixed wheel....

    chain lenght will change if you change the size of your lowest gear 
    

Thanks guys, especially .5 (WLDWST::SANTOS_E)

My derailleur already needed to be replaced, but it does look like the shifting
has changed for the worse. This may be due to the reduced chain length.

As for the fixed wheel and straight block (if I understand correctly), I'm rather
fond of my gears -- especially when commuting into some of the Atlantic winds
we get here on the west coast of Ireland!

Patrick

    re: "Atlantic winds"  Only need an 11 and a 36?
    
    ed