| T.R | Title | User | Personal Name
 | Date | Lines | 
|---|
| 2167.1 | buy cheap | WLDWST::SANTOS_E |  | Wed Jan 15 1992 15:41 | 18 | 
|  |     First thing is get catalogs from performance and nashbar . 
    deore is the standard at this time . look for discounted items if you 
    want to be in the ball park . I use deore rear changers sis but would
    realy not mind friction cause they are quieter , They are hard to find 
    though . are you building your own wheels? Rims are at least $40 a pair
    on up spokes $ 18 for 75 hubs are at least $50 . I heard the suntour 
    pro has a good advantage type (mechanical)rear brakes. I am not
    particular about mixing components I like the best for my dough . there
    are some items you need to keep the same though like crankset and
    bottom brackets . drive system . There is a campy offroad group in
    nashbar with nice cranksets. stems can be inexpensive so as pedals 
    like sakae on nashbar , strong brand seatpost are cheap , bars are
    around $20 . Get cheap chains they all wont last long anyways .If you
    are not over 160 lbs you can go 32 hole wheels , 36 has more weight but 
    will be more bulletproof and if you break spokes it will stay true
    better not counting softer ride. Some mailorders give discount on
    groupos . check mt bike mags. Gotta Go I'll come back later
    
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| 2167.2 |  | CSCOA1::HOOD_R |  | Wed Jan 15 1992 16:16 | 38 | 
|  |     
    
    Unfortunately, $700-$900 is not a lot to work with when your buying
    components as pieces. For instance, to go top of the line DeoreXT 
    will cost about $500 (not including clipless pedals) for the group 
    from Nashbar. This includes crank,bb, fr and rear deraillers, shift
    levers, brakes, headset and freehubs.  You still have handlebars,
    seats, rims, stems, seatpost, etc, etc, etc to go. You still have the 
    frame to buy. The Suntour MicroDrive and XCPro aren't any cheaper. 
    If you buy the components from a bike shop , add 30-100% in markup.
    These (and perhaps a Campy or Mavic, or Specialized component line) are
    the cream of the crop.  
    
    If it were me, I would do one of two things:
    
    1) scour the bike shops and want ads for an almost new high end bike 
       that meets you needs/wants. Fit is a most important or
    2) scour the bike shops and want ads for an almost new bike that has 
       the component group that you want. In this case, fit is unimportant
       as you will be transferring the components to your new frame. Sell
       the old frame. 
    
    By "scour the bike shops", I mean to check their "for sale" bulletin
    board as well as their used bike inventory. You are far more likely 
    to find a bike that doesn't fit that has the components that you want
    than you are to find one that does, so 2) may be easier to accomplish 
    than 1). Have a bike shop install the headset and bottom bracket. 
    Everything else is bolt-on, and is user installable. Enlist the help 
    of friends (if needed) for final adjustment. Get a good bike book for 
    maintenance ("Bicycling Magazine's Complete Guide to Bicycle 
    Maintenance and Repair"). 
    
    My bike is equipped with DeoreXT components (for the most part). 
    
    doug
    
    
     
 | 
| 2167.3 | what's top priority? | SHALOT::ELLIS | John Lee Ellis - assembly required | Wed Jan 15 1992 17:47 | 9 | 
|  |     
    The previous advice (e.g., "scour the bikeshops, catalogues") sounds
    good to me, if you are wanting to build-from-scratch and keep it in
    that price range.  You'll probably get as good or better a bike for the
    money, in that price range, by buying a reputable built-up bike ...
    for example, the MB3 that someone suggested a couple days ago here in
    Notes.
    
    -j
 | 
| 2167.4 | This  Mountain bike requires DEORE or above | HERON::MARTIN | I don't have an attitude problem!!!! | Thu Jan 16 1992 11:16 | 6 | 
|  | 	I would go for any deore components (only the running gear and shifters)
from about 1989 onwards, If you can find any XT kit going cheap try that. If you
are using thumb shifters try mounting them upside down, makes riding just that 
bit easier.
Kev. 
 | 
| 2167.5 | con't | WLDWST::SANTOS_E |  | Fri Jan 17 1992 13:16 | 12 | 
|  |     I'm back , I just noticed you are planning on having a store build it
    up ? they will probably want at least a$100 on labor alone , are you
    sure you do not want to at least try to assemble it? As far as frames
    are concerned look or call shops in your area if they have any .you
    can try to barter down in price specialy if the frame has been there
    long ( perhaps free asembly ). One other tip look at this years 
    performance catalog and specialized stumpjumper , for 1.000 you get
    front suspension . and no worry the performance bike even has 
    micro drive by suntour , exept specialized has a better fork crown.
    
    Good Luck
    Ed S.
 | 
| 2167.6 | Bridgestone MB3 | JUNCO::HUI |  | Wed Jan 22 1992 13:02 | 30 | 
|  | 
    Requirements I have decided on thus far:
    
    - Components need not be the "latest and greatest". Reliability,
      toughness (read "bulletproof), ease of serviceability and
      functionality are far more important than style or the latest fad.
 ANS  > Deore DX
    - Top mounted, thumb shifters are a must.
 ANS  > Deore DX Top mount
    
    - Frame will be steel. I am currently leaning toward Tange Prestige.
 ANS  > Ritchey Logic CroMo Frame, Fork
 
    - Budget for entire project...$ 750 to $900.
 ANS  > $750-$800 completely assembled 
                                    
      Spokes = Wheelsmith SS 14 ga.
      Rims = Ritchey Vantage Expert 32H
      Tires = Ritchey hard Drive
      Saddle = Avocet Racing Leather
      Brakes = Dia Compe 986 with 2 finger SS-5 Lever
      Handlbars = Ritchey Force
      Weight = 26.7 lbs (49cm)
      What is this bike?
      1mBRIDGESTONE MB3 1m 
      Bicycling Guide Best Mt Bike for under $800.00
 | 
| 2167.7 | My 2 cents | COMET::VOITL |  | Thu Jan 23 1992 00:06 | 16 | 
|  |     I personally do not think it would be worth the hassle to try and put a 
    good MTB together, from scratch, for $700-$900.  It would seem almost
    impossible with new groupo and frame and tires and stem and so on.  
    There are a lot of excellent bikes already put together for that price.
    Well that is my opinion. My dream bike from scratch will be:
    Alpinestars Tit. frame
    Mavic 231 rims, alloy nipples
    flite seat
    A-tac bar and stem( if I can get it to fit)
    Xtr groupo(rapid fire and STI best on the market IMHO)
    Ritchy Z-max tires
    14/15 dt spokes
    I can figure what pedals.  All the clipless pedals I have tried I dont
    like.
    Shocks.  What kind? I dont know!
    I know keep dreamin
 | 
| 2167.8 |  | JUNCO::HUI |  | Thu Jan 23 1992 11:30 | 17 | 
|  |  
  > I personally do not think it would be worth the hassle to try and put a 
  > good MTB together, from scratch, for $700-$900.  It would seem almost
  > impossible with new groupo and frame and tires and stem and so on.  
  > There are a lot of excellent bikes already put together for that price.
  
I agree on Re -.1 on this. If you were to put together a custom with that kind
of money, you would be have to sacrifice some quality on the components, frame,
or  wheels. Figuring a descent custom Tange Prestige frame will go from $500
and up. It would be tough to get a good Grouppo, wheels, saddle, bars & stem
etc... including labor for under $400.
Just my 2 cents.
huey
 | 
| 2167.9 | nothing more than feelings | CSC32::M_VEGA |  | Thu Jan 23 1992 12:11 | 23 | 
|  |     re .6
    
    Shop around a bit, I picked up a MB3 for $540 from Grand West Outfitters
    here in the Springs. I saw the rave reviews but first time I looked at one 
    I thought it was the worst looking mountain bike around. No big tubes,
    no space age under bar thumb shifters, no front indexed shifting,real funky 
    purple color. I didn't even take it for a test ride because of my negative 
    first impressions. After renting and test riding the major brands I'd 
    decided that Diamond Back was the most cost effective way to go (I didn't 
    really notice any difference in ride except for the Diablo Sierra which 
    would make it's own opinion about which track to take on a downhill and 
    tended to pop wheelies going up). Just for kicks I decided to give the MB3 
    a spin (at 700+ it was out of my price range and I just wanted to tell 
    myself that I'd tried them all before going with the Diamond Back... I
    can only describe it as if the bike came alive and I had the feeling hopping
    skipping and jumping while riding the MB3. I went back and tried the other 
    bikes and even tried some the other brands top lines to see if I'd gained 
    some new sensitivity, but it was all just so much dead metal, rubber and 
    plastic as before. 
    
    I think Grand West is having another 30%-70% sale...
    
    Mark
 | 
| 2167.10 | Thanks for your help | GLDOA::AUGHINBAUGH |  | Mon Jan 27 1992 09:36 | 6 | 
|  |     Thanks for the advice. Don't have much time right now and it has been
    awhile since I was able to access Notes. After a cursory reading of the
    replies to my original note it appears I should beat a path to the door
    of closest Bridgestone dealer. Have to go, but I did want to take the
    time to acknowledge each of you who took the time to help me. Again,
    thank you. 
 |