| T.R | Title | User | Personal Name
 | Date | Lines | 
|---|
| 1994.1 | start with just the chain ring | MATE::PJOHNSON |  | Fri Jul 12 1991 16:02 | 7 | 
|  |     You can just replace the chain ring.  I'd recommend round rings instead
    of Biopace.  I'd also recommend getting a bike repair book.  There are
    several notes in this conference about which bike maintenance manuals
    are good.
    
    Phil
    
 | 
| 1994.2 | If you don't go al the way it might skip | SMD72J::MCCAULEY |  | Fri Jul 12 1991 22:35 | 6 | 
|  |     You can try not changing the freewheel. you will know soon enough if
    gets you by, because you will get skiping on the worn cogs. July's
    issue of "bicycle" mag. has a article on drive train maintenance.
    the book advice from reply 1 is also a very good idea.
    
    Ken
 | 
| 1994.3 |  | CXCAD::EDMONDS | Diane Edmonds, Colorado Springs | Fri Jul 12 1991 22:47 | 16 | 
|  | 
    An old chain on a new chainring will almost certainly cause
    "chain suck", where the chain wraps up around the bottom of the
    chainring.
    One reason that your chainring wore out is probably that your
    chain got elongated.  When the chain stretches, instead of all the
    engaged teeth driving the chain, only the 2 or 3 at the very top
    of the chainring drive it.
    The chain is the part that wears out most frequently in any bike
    transmission.  If you don't replace the chain with the chainring,
    your new chainring will wear out more quickly.  Try these two
    parts first.  If it seems to work fine, leave the rest alone.
    - Ray
 | 
| 1994.4 | Might have misread you 1st time | SMD72J::MCCAULEY |  | Fri Jul 12 1991 22:48 | 4 | 
|  |     Regarding my .2 reply ---- thats if you go with a new chain & chain
    ring. just changing the chain ring won't effect the freewheel
    
    Ken
 | 
| 1994.5 | YOU'LL KNOW... | WMOIS::C_GIROUARD |  | Mon Jul 15 1991 06:14 | 9 | 
|  |      Whether or not you change ANYTHING else will depend on the wear and
    (or) miles on the stuff. I say miles because some "miles" are worse
    than others. Some folks can get away with 3k-5k on a chain. I usually
    end up replacing mine every 1500-1800 or so... The last time I had
    1600 miles and the thing was stretched 1/4"...
    
     Only you'll be able tell. And probably during the first test ride.
    
       Chip
 | 
| 1994.6 |  | WUMBCK::FOX |  | Mon Jul 15 1991 11:50 | 8 | 
|  |     On the bio-pace c/r's...
    How does the positioning of the ring in relation to crank arm position
    affect pedal stroke performance, or anything else for that matter?
    In other words, if you take of a bio-pace chainring and rotate it,
    say, 45 degrees, then put it back with the crank in the same position,
    what happens differently?
    
    John
 | 
| 1994.7 | APEX'S & ELIPSE'S (GREEK) | WMOIS::C_GIROUARD |  | Mon Jul 15 1991 12:13 | 7 | 
|  |     You loose the advantage (whatever it is) of having the apex of the
    elipse positioned through the beginning and end of the down and
    up stroke -- I guess this is position is where the majority of
    torque is generated through the pedal cycle. At least that was the
    concept...
    
      Chip
 |