Conference noted::bicycle

    
    Quickly looking through the thrashbar, sorry, Nashbar catalog in my
    office, I see what I think you're looking for.  There are two
    models by Onza with different bend styles. The costs are:
    L-Bend (#OZ-BEL)    181 grams  $43.
    Ski-Bend (#OZ-BES)  158 grams  $37.
    
    I'm sure I've seen others in different catalogs.
    
    rb

    Hi Shaw,
    
    	I know what you're talking about, but I've never used them 
    	and I've never seen any in titanium at those prices! The ones
    	that I have seen are made of aluminum or cromoly and the prices
    	range from $25 to $50 per pair. As .1 mentioned, look in the
    	Nashbar or Performance catalogs to see what they offer. Also,
    	check out the ATB handlebars made by Scott (same company that
    	makes ski poles).
    	Take care and stay upright...
    
    Pete
    

    
    Shaw,
    
         Remember, too, that many bar-ends clamp onto the bar... you 
         effectively lose about an inch at each end. This won't be a 
         problem if you already have a fairly wide bar, but (if you 
         have a narrow bar) you may not like how much room they take. 
         I have talked to several people who enjoyed the new hand position, 
         but did not like the confined feeling they have in the normal 
         position. At the price they charge for bar ends, you may 
         consider the Scott AT (3,4,4Pro) bars. They provide an even greater
         range of hand positions at only slightly more weight...
         and they cost about the same. I ordered and AT4 from Nashbar for 
         $42.95.... it arrived yesterday after being backordered. BTW, 
         I had previously cut my bar (long before bar ends were 
         available ) and it was far too narrow for me to put on 
         bar ends, or I might have gotten those.
    
         I don't know how much they will help your wheel lift problem,
         though. If you lean too far forward, you lose traction on the   
         rear wheel. Too far back, and the front wheel comes up.  It's 
         all a question of body balance, and is often unrelated to hand
         positions. On loose or slippery surfaces, it's all a question 
         of balance! On any uphill, though, it's nicer to get your
         hands out from under you. 
    
    Doug
    

    
    Thanks friends for the replies. I am going to check out a few cycle
    shops this weekend. I wonder if the clamp-ons are easy to
    attach/dettach at will (I hope they are), that way I can keep them 
    in the bag and use them when required. I will check into the Onza 
    the ones that I saw from Onza were $200.00.  The Scott handle bars
    sound like a good idea. If they are as light as the ski poles they 
    make. For those of you that have ordered stuff from Nashbar, how long
    do you have to wait for them, if it's four to six weeks delivery, I
    won't have the patience. 
    
    Thanks again!
    
    Shaw

    For hill climbs, try this-
    
    Stay in the saddle, and pull back hard on the handle bars,
    while concentrating on keeping your elbows in.
    
    Sounds strange, but MBA, etc. recommend it, and it does work. I ride
    with a lot of people who use this technique effectively.
    
    Have fun,
    
    Ed

    
    RE:-1
    
    Ed, I have been climbing hills for over four years and I never pulled
    back hard on the handle bars while climbing, wouldn't the front end
    lift off the ground if you did that?
    
    Shaw-which-will-try-this-tomorro

    Shaw,
    
    I agree with Doug.  The extentions tend to help with long, gradual
    consistent hills and when spinning the flats.  On short, technical climbs 
    (i.e. steep, rocky and rooted) I don't use them.  I like the
    traditional postition where you have easy access to the controls. 
    Climbing short, steep inclines successfully requires perfect body
    positioning 100% of the time.  Also, you must be in the right gear,
    not necessarily the lowest.  Too low a gear will make your front end
    come up or spin the rear wheel.  Try a higher gear and see if you
    notice a difference.  The only other factor I've noticed is consistent
    pressure on the pedals.  I seem to have much more success when I keep a
    a rhythm than when I try to use brute force.
    
    Mike
    PS
    If anyone has any input on the Scott AT-3's I'd be interested to hear
    more.
    
    

    
    Mike, you might be right about not neccesarily being in the lowest gear
    That might have contributed to my front end lifting and rear wheel 
    spining.  I tried some pretty steep climbs this past weekend. 
    I did better, although occassionaly rear wheel spins, but I never had
    to walk the bike up. It still feels that if the handle bar where
    exetended out a little furthur over the front wheel, weight
    distribution would have been better for some climbs. 
    Thanks for the advice.
    
    Shaw

    
    I am psyched, I just went out and picked up the Scott AT-4 and some 
    new Gel Gripps. I like the idea of not being limited to one positions
    and have 4 choices. It helps on long rides, but more than anything
    else, I hope it the new bars would help distribute my weight better 
    on super climbs. I am planning on a climb on one of the ski areas 
    around and yes a gong ho, downhill! The down side is, I could not find 
    a bike shop that would have time to mount the bars for me. Every body
    is back logged for the holidays. Next on the shopping list would be 
    a work stand and some descent tools so I wouldn't be at the mercy of
    the bike shop mechanic.
    
    Shaw
    

	I saw some nice workstands in the PERFORMANCE
	catalog, they also had tool kits.

	I put the profile bars on my bike and they
	really helped last nite...

	Speaking of last nite...it was marvelous
	weather for bike riding!!

	-dick

    
    Well, after several hundred miles with my AT-4 handlebar, I think that
    they are nice, but that you mostly only use the extra positions that
    you could also get with bar ends. 
    
    doug
    

    Just for info:
    
    I know several people that tried AT-3s this summer, and are trading them
    back for the flat bars and bar ends.  Most find the flat section too
    narrow and one found the bars just too soft (another rider found his
    permanently bent from normal riding, no crashes).  I ride with Hyperlite
    bars and Onza "ski bend" ends and find them great.  The key for me, whether
    it be bar ends or the single bar models, is the ability to use more
    biceps/chest by having a palms in grip.  At least for certain climbs.
    The further stretch will naturally put more weight out over the front
    wheel for steering, while allowing me to remain seated more often.  It
    is true that some climbs are better on the flats, but it is nice to
    have the option, and I've found this the exception rather than the
    rule (unless it is very technical).  Also, for rides over 25 miles 
    with lots of hills, the extra hand positions are great.

     Another fellow I know, who finished 10th in the sport class circuit at
    the Mt Snow Nationals, told me he felt he would never have done as well
    without the bar ends (actually he said he wouldn't have finished, but I
    doubt that).  That was his first time using them.  The circuit
    had a good deal of climbing, mostly dirt road which seems to be made
    for extensions.

    john

    

    
    After several hundred miles on my Scott AT-4, I've determined that
    the extra hand positions used most often ( the sides and top corners
    of the bar) can also be had with bar ends. Therefore, I don't think 
    that the Scott bars offer any significant advantage over bar ends. 
    Bar ends, on the other hand, could be easily removed without major 
    front end reconstruction. 
    
    doug