Conference noted::bicycle

    
    A Tipo is a great hub.  You may be able to replace the axle and
    cone set with Nouvo Record, making it even better.
    
    To get the freewheel off:  Try clamping it in a vise between two
    pieces of soft wood.  Clamp the other (left hand) flange between
    the blocks.
    
    Chuck
    

    
    Reg,
    
    You can use my tools if you can get to Oxford one evening.
    
    CdH
    

    
    Oh, yea...
    
    The Tipo axle set is the same as the NR but it's not polished to
    the same degree, therefore it's an upgrade as Chuck said.
    
    CdH
    

    I have a Regina Extra free wheel on "Normandy" hub.  The flange
    that the free wheel tool fits into sheared off when I tried to remove
    the free wheel.
    
    I would like to replace the free wheel, and not the hub...  any suggestions?
           
    karl

    (re: .4) How badly is it sheared?  I've seen some supposedly hopeless freewheels
    that can still be removed.  Put the freewheel remover on and then
    put the skewer on throught the axle and remover, tighten and back
    off 1/4 turn.  Now use your wrench to remove the freewheel, only
    turning it as far as you have backed off the skewer, then back off
    the skewer some more and then the freewheel, etc., etc.

    
    That must be an old style notched Regina freewheel. That's why they
    went to splined bodies.
    
    There is an easy-out tool available from Bicycle Research that will
    get it off. You can either take it to a shop that has one or order
    one for yourself. I used to have one but lent it out, never to be
    seen again.
    
    CdH
    

    
    	Thanks Y'all.  I had neglected to mention that they are the
    (not_currently_fashionable,_but_I_like_'em) wide flange hubs.  I'll
    probably make up an angle iron  bar with a couple of appropriately
    spaced 3/8 or so inch bolts through it that I can use to hold the
    hub, kind of like a big peg spanner.

    	Reg
    
    	( I *KNEW* there was another good reason for wide flange hubs)
    

    
    RE: .7  You can clamp the left-hand flange in a vise (with wood)
    whether the flange is large or small. 
    
    (I must confess that I speak from experience, having performed the
    dumb maneuver myself that got you into this mess.  (This of course
    was a very long time ago and I have never done anything equally
    dumb since.  :^).   )) 

    RE:  Getting off stripped Regina:  You can take the freewheel apart
    without removing it.  That will leave just the base attached to
    the hub.  You can then put a pipe wrench or something similar on
    it.   
    
    To do this unscrew the circular plate that holds in the outer ring
    of freewheel bearings.  This plate is often left-hand threaded.
    
    
    Chuck

    re .8	Well, it may be kinda academic, but I have a strong
    aversion to subjecting the hub's centre (which is just an alloy tube)
    to the kind of forces that will likely be needed to get a rusted
    cluster off.  Now I know that the rust is only on the cluster, and the
    alloy doesn't rust, but when steel and alloy have been together for a
    long time in the presence of air and water, without any kind of grease
    to keep them from oxidizing (an assumption) they [chemical term for
    bonding together of dissimilar metals] together.  I'll soak WD 40 or
    penetrating oil into this for a couple of days anyway, but I think it
    will still need more torque than I want to put through the centre of
    the hub.  A built up wheel is one hell of a good force distributer. 
    
    	If this doesn't work I may just braze a cluster tool onto a
    1/2 inch drive impact socket and go at it with the compressor. 
    If that works I'll make the tool available to Y'all (right after
    the patent is cleared, rights are hereby reserved).
    
    	Reg
    
    

As an aside, this very thing happened to a friend, and not due to his 
silliness. After a Bad Crash, his wheel had very few spokes left 
attached to the rim, and we ended up with exactly the same problem.
Good luck; you'll need it!!!!

    RE: .9
    
    If you can get the cluster tool on the freewheel, why do you need
    to braze it to anything?  Just put a pipe over the wrench handle..
    
    chuck
    

    re (.11 re .9))	Without a wheel to provide the leverage in the
    oposite direction a big pipe doesn't do me a lot of good.  Hence
    there seems to be a choice between two options:-
    
    	a)	Rig up something to apply the opposing torque with,
    i.e. a bar with a couple of bolts through that engage with the holes
    in the flange, or
    
    	b)	avoid the need for opposing torque by shaking it off
    with the rattle gun (impact wrench).   I am still fascinated when I
    am able to shake off rusted parts without shearing them, and its
    usually possible to hold the other half by hand.
    
    	Reg
    
    	(besides, I like brazin' things together to make special tools)
    

    
    Jeeez, Reg, air tools and torches.......what do you need MY tools
    for? Sounds like you have all you need...
    
    
    8^)
    
    CdH