Conference noted::bicycle

	Sounds like a decent frame and fairly usable components.  I would
	recommend that you "go for it".  Take everything off the bike
	and take it apart as much as possible.  Clean everything, of
	course, and replace the cheap stuff like cables and brake
	shoes.

	A set of alloy rims and a set of spokes ran me about $26 per
	wheel at a shop in Fitchburg, Mass.  I would recommend keeping
	the steel rims for a year and re-build the wheels NEXT 
	winter if you find you can't stand the steel rims.

	A new set of derailleurs (front and rear) sounds like a good
	investment.  Cheap ones will do because A) they won't be as
	worn as the old ones, and B) the technology has probably 
	improved since the bike was built.  No need to spend $40.

	The handlebars could probably use new tape.  You might ask around
	for a used saddle.  Should be able to find a good used saddle
	for about $5.  I've got an alloy seatpost you can have
	for free... If it will fit.  You'll have to pick it up in
	North Chelmsford, Mass. (home) or Littleton, Mass. (work).

	I think the bike will turn out to be well worth the time
	and money invested.

				-John A. Wasser

    
    	Well, I suppose its more or less your size ?   
    
    I mean, if its a 27 inch frame and you're 5 ft 2 in., then forget it. 

    Reg
    
    

        
    	OK, now for a more serious reply.   You will almost certainly
    have a French threaded bottom bracket, parts are available though
    not as readily as for English threaded bikes, which is what most
    American and Japanese stuff is.  Also check the rear hub for threads,
    they could be french, but are more likely to be Engli(British) if
    the bike was built for export.  If its got lots of chrome and decals
    then it was probably built for the U.S. market.  Lots of stuff will
    fit if you don't much care about how well it fits, there is a
    phenomenon known to some as "foo-foo-metric", this is the oriental
    version of metric threads, they have the same pitch and diameter
    but a different thread profile.  According to which half has European
    metric and which has foo-foo things will either be tight (as you
    cut a new thread into the softer part) or lose (you'll notice when
    bits fall off after a coupla hundred miles).
    
	I would take it into Bike Exchange in Cambridge and have them
    identify it for you, lots of European bikes (even cheap ones) have
    a model number and serial number stamped in the bottom bracket shell
    or on the rear drop-out.  
    
    	Reg
        
    

    
    Re: Reg
    
    Definitely. Make sure before you spend a cent that it's close to
    your proper size. Also, check out the alignment of the frame, if
    it's way off forget it.
    
    The bike sounds like it's worth restoring, although it's not a super
    high quality bike, in fact it sounds like one of Peugeots lower
    models. So think pretty hard what it's worth to you.
    
    The crank is probably a steel Nervar cottered model. If the chainwheels
    are worn, you'll have to find some in an obscure place (like my
    basement 8^)) since they're not available anymore. The derailleurs
    are Simplex, they're disposeable anyway so don't sweat their
    replacement.Suntour LePree or equivalent should do nicely $25-28
    pr. The seat pin is most likely 1". TTT and Atom make these (as
    well as Campy 8^)), but are expensive. Get an alloy seat post and
    use an Ideale microadjusting clamp. It's just as light and a lot
    cheaper and readily available. As for the wheels, replace those
    steel rims ASAP, they're dangerous. The hubs are probably Normandy,
    which are the best low budget hubs around. Axle sets are <$5 each,
    so rebuild them and get a nice pair of alloy rims, like the Mavic
    G-40 and the best spokes (DT). This is where your money should be
    spent.
    
    Enjoy! If you need help/parts/advice give a shout.
    
    CdH
     

if you need another freewheel, I have one sitting around that came off an old
Motobecane so it's French threaded.  It does not look very worn.  The
price is right (free).

ed

re: Simplex derailleurs: It sounds like you have a Simplex rather than 
a Huret derailleur. If so, check to make sure that it's the kind that 
has a detachable hanger, rather than a hanger built into the rear
dropout. Simplex uses a different hanger than anyone else, another
derailleur can't be used with an existing Simplex dropout.

Wheels: before deciding to salvage the hubs, disassemble them and 
examine the races. If the races on the hub body are pitted, chuck
the whole mess.

Sounds to me like you have a Peugeot U-08, which sold (10-12 years back)
for about 130; comparably now perhaps 100 more....

                                        G'luck,
                                        ken

    Re: .4
    	The Simplex derailleurs on my 60's vintage PX10 have outlasted
    most of the rest of its parts.  They may not be as prestigous as
    a Campy, but their simplicity is engaging -- I won't replace
    them until they crumble.
      
    

    It's not a UO-8, it's hhe next most expensive, forget what #.
    Dropouts should not be a problem
     					John

     Well I am impressed. You people clearly know more about my bike
     than I do. I had to go home and read the SIMPLEX on the deraillers
     to know what kind they are. 
     
     Thanks for all your advice opinions etc. Here is some more info:
     
     o Yes it is my size. (I am 6' 3" and it is a 19" frame. ;-})
       I am 6' and it is about a 23" frame.
     
     o The hubs say NORMANDY. I haven't looked inside yet.
     
     o The seat post is about 13/16" or 2.1cm, but it goes into a sleeve
     that might be optional(?)
     
     o The crank assemb. is steel and says PR in script with a small double
     circle in front of it.
     
     o The dropouts do not look unusual.
     
     o A decal on the frame says "TUBE SPECIAL" for what it is worth.
     
     As for specific parts offered, I won't really be taking things apart
     until winter. Its still too nice to clean out a work space in the
     basement. Thanks again for the info. 
     
     Dave

    I have a Peugeot PBN10 that I bought ~1982.  I didn't know much about
    bikes then, and didn't have a whole lot of choice since there was only
    one bike shop in town.  I'm wondering if I should sink much money into
    this bike or concentrate on saving for a new one.  It has a Carbolite
    103(?) frame (sounds like steel to me), and Simplex derailleurs (with
    Peugeot labels, plan to upgrade to Shimano 105).
    
    How did this bike fit into Peugeot's product line?  Should I save it or
    save my money for a new one?  BTW, I paid $400 for it in '82.
    
    I'll have to measure the frame, but it probably would be considered too
    big for me by today's standards.  Do frame sizes go through style fads
    (such as ski lengths), or was I the victim of the salesman?
    
    Thanks for any help!
    
    Jamie

>    103(?) frame (sounds like steel to me), and Simplex derailleurs (with
>    Peugeot labels, plan to upgrade to Shimano 105).
    
Might wanna be careful if the frame has a builtin derailleur hanger on 
the rear dropout - Simplex (used to?) thread their hangers different 
from ANYBODY else..... if the hanger comes off, you should be able to 
replace w/no problem...
                                  ken

    If the hanger is built in, it can be drilled and tapped to fit Campy,
    etc.  I anticipate having this done on my PX10 if the Simplex
    derailleur ever wears out.
    
    	Barry

    re.: last two
    
    The hanger's built in . . . and I don't think I'll ever be putting
    Campy components on this bike!
    
    Now that I've thought about it, I think I paid $300, not $400, for it. 
    I'm going to go ahead with the upgrades (as money permits), but also
    start saving for a new one in a year or two.  One problem: the bottom
    bracket is probably French threaded, a style which seems to be
    unavailable now.  Does anyone still make a French threaded BB?
    
    I'm still curious as to where this model (PBN10) fit into Peugeot's
    product line.  The salesman claimed it was a transitional model between
    their touring and racing lines, and it is set up for panniers.
    
    The Weinmann brake pull levers have shallow holes drilled into them to
    give them that "drilled" look that was popular in the Seventies.  Maybe
    I should take the components I'm replacing and drill them out in case
    the style comes back.  :^)
    
    Jamie

    I think Performance's cartridge bearing BB is available in French
    thread.  Various others are available on a special order basis.  I
    opted for a Mavic, which doesn't use the BB's threading at all, but
    they are pricy and require special tooling to install.  I would go easy
    on the upgrades and concentrate on saving for a new bike.  The cheapest
    way to buy components is assembled on a frame.
    
    Barry

Let's expand the info in this topic a little. 

Which New England bike shops carry French bicyles and hopefully will carry
French threaded components?

And which catalogs do the same (we already know Performance is a possibility)?

Harry

     My personal experience is that the French stuff is out except for some-
    one looking for parts... Not everything is available in French
    threads... But a lot of catalogs still offer some stuff in French.
    
     Your best bet is to look into Colorado Cyclist, Excel, Nashbar and
    Performance... Then call some shops. A lot of have "old" new stuff
    in backroom... I saw a brand Nuovo Record crankset (175mm) in the
    store display box (pretty) up in Gamache's attic a few months ago.
    
     The moral of the story is if you look well you'll find it!
    
       Chip 

I doubt that many shops stock French parts, except, as Chip noted, as leftovers
but there are many possibilities if you special order, which is what I've had 
to do.  The only French-thread mail-order parts I've seen are Performance's
sealed BB's.  Actually, I've found that buying Campy leftovers is a economical 
way to get some very nice parts.  BTW, Is Gamache's attic open to the public?

Barry

    Random thought (well I'm on vacation...)
    
    Why in France did my Bike shop talk of `Italian' or `English'
    threading ?

    Because they needed something to mutter about besides politics?
    
    ed

re .18, Rod

I think French threading is out of favour, my new Vitus comes standard with
English, note this means BB width as well.  However, to get the correct chain-
line, I had to buy an old "Italian" axle which is for 70 rather than 68 mm.

I'm intending to do up the old Alan, which I believe is Italian but to confuse
the issue has French fittings - certainly the headset is 25 x 1, and I haven't
found enough strength to undo the BB to find out if it's 2 x RH or 1 of each.