Conference terri::cars_uk

>    and where I just don't know. Also I don't understand how switching
>    things like the indicators on can make the problem worse, (this is true
>    of any electrics).
    
Presumably this is because things like indicators/lights/windscreen wipers use 
electricity (which is in short supply because of duff altenator) that is needed 
by your injection/firing system.

You get similar symptoms when your fan belt is too loose (slipping) and the 
altenator/dynamo is not charging.

    Hmmm....
    
    	The alternator has been replaced, (admittedly not with a bran new
    one) but this made no difference. The regulator has been checked and we
    were told it is okay. 
    
    	The strange thing is that the battery warning light has ALWAYS
    glowed dimly, I haven't been able to get rid of it. It has done this
    from before this problem existed and yet has not glowed any brighter
    since this problem existed. I thought this light was indicative of a
    dodgy alternator/regulator but as the car has always started and run
    perfectly beforehand, i've never worried about it.
    
    	Dave.
    

    
     I had an IDENTICAL problem on my injection Belmont.
    
    Cured by Breakdown mechanic :  Loose wire to spade connector on
    alternator. No, I didnt believe it at first either, & I was very
    sceptical about the fix. It never broke down again & the light never
    glowed when the engine was hot.
    
    
    	Tony.

    But my problem seems to be temperature related, and as the altenator
    has been replaced once, any loose connections would have been found
    and fixed.
    
    	Still baffled...
    
    		Dave.
    

    
    It couldn't be that you've got a chafed wire somewhere which parts as
    the temperature increases could it?
    
    Happened to me once, as the saying goes.
    
    Mark

Regulators, once contaminated with oil, produce these symptoms.  Work fine
when cold/warm  duff when hot.

Regulators are pretty cheap to replace - compared with new batteries/
altenators/days worth of labour charges...

    Regarding the ignition/charging light always glowing.  Had this problem
    a couple of months ago with a MK3 Escort.  The problem was the main
    output lead from the alternator had snapped inside the insulation where
    it attached to the starter motor.
    
    The alternator had been checked by Lucas, and the regulator had just
    been replaced.  When checked by Thames Valley Electro-Diesel it was
    found that the stator windings had burnt out.
    
    Replaced the dodgy wire and the stator windings (�15) and all has been
    lovely ever since.
    
    Regarding the indicators, I would suggest checking the earth's. are the
    indicators themselves working OK?
    
    Have you considered the possibility of a leak on the inlet manifold? a
    weak mixture can cause the flames etc out of the exhaust.
    
    Another possibility is that your valve clearances can be very marginal
    and the change in temperature is causing a problem there.  I had this
    once on a 305 diesel.  When the engine got very cold after being
    swithed off overnight in the winter, it didn't like to start at all.
    The problem was found to be 2 inlet valves with nearly no clearance, in
    fact when the engine was cold enough they would leak.  Being diesel, no
    compression no Bang!!.
     
    Cheers Ian...

    I have a Golf with an identical fuel-injection system to your Mk1
    Scirocco.  If my alternator belt slips (such as after going over a lot
    of the wet slippery stuff) I notice a momentary change of performance, 
    but as if the accelerator was let off half an inch.
    
    Don't know exactly why this happens, as our fuel line is pressurised,
    with a return line.  If the fuel pump slows down it should take a few
    seconds to affect the mixture.  It's a possiblity though.
    
    

    I presume that the injection system is a K jetronic. I would suggest
    that you look at/have tested the fuel control/compensating pressure part
    of the system. This is a rectangular block approx 3.5  x  2 x  2 inches
    (aluminium) bolted to part of the engine so as to acquire the block
    temperature (eventually). It has two fuel lines going to it, a vacuum
    line and an electrical feed when the ignition is switched on. The
    electrical feed is to an internal bimetal strip with a similar
    characteristic to the cold start air bypass valve which also has a
    bimetal electrically heated feature.
    
    The purpose of the device is to provide a compensating fuel pressure in
    opposition to the force from the air flow sensing plate. This is used
    in a quite cunning way to provide acceleration enrichment and cold
    start enrichment. 
    
    I would firstly check that this unit is seeing volts with the ignition
    on and that the wiring to the bimetal heating provides continuity
    inside the unit. Failure of the warm up part of this device would lead
    to normal starting but overich fuel after warm up which seems to fit.
                                                        

    RE -1  ......otherwise known as the 'Warm-up regulator'. 
    
    Roy

    Thanks for the replies...
    
    	The problem seems to have gone away as quick as it came. There we
    were standing in the cold around an open bonnet waiting for the car to
    warm up so that we could have another play, and when it did, no
    problem. The only thing we did was to check all the connecting blocks
    on the back of the fuse box were tight.
    
    	So after, attempting to get the problem back, (by switching all the
    electrics when the cooling fan was on) and failing we gave up. I'm not
    confident that the problem has gone for good though, we'll just have to
    wait and see.
    
    	Dave.
    

    I had an '81 Golf GTI, and experienced the same symptom of dimly
    glowing battery light. The problem has been solved by reseating the
    cable (I think it was blue) coming from alternator on the back of
    the fuse box. Later, the same happened, and I had to replace the fuse
    box. I experienced 3 different problems on this car, all related to the
    fuse box. I would suggest to wait, and if problem appears again, try to
    replace fuse Box.