Conference 7.286::home_work

There is no easy way to get paint off, unless of course you want it to
stay on.

I've found that a chemical paint stripper is the easiest and nastiest
method for removing finishes.  Mechanical methods (like the roto-stripper,
which is a drill attachment that essentially beats the paint off the
surface) work well but can chew the hell out of the wood and I don't think
I'd try it on varnish.  I'm not sure whether they still make those "sanding
blocks" which looked a lot like glass foam -- they worked pretty well on
some finishes but were expensive -- you might check that out at a hardware
or paint store.  We've had great success with the electric hot-air guns,
but only with paint -- I'm not sure how well it would do on varnish.  

Also, I think no matter what you use to take off the majority of the
finish, you'll end up using chemicals to finish up the job.  When you
do, wear a mask and gloves (wear an isolation suit if you can find one!).

There is one other possibility.  There are some companies that will take
a piece of furniture and dip it into a vat of paint remover (Chem-clean
in Hooksett NH was one, but I don't know whether they're still in business).
The only problem I've heard about is that the bath tends to remove the glue
as well as the finish, so you might end up regluing the joints in the piece.

Best of luck,

JP

    
    This past summer I did 6 kitchen chairs, a kitchen table, and a
    coffee table with a GALLON of sears heavy bodied paint stripper.
    I have just finished stripping the varnish off a small desk and
    still have about 1/3 of the gallon left.  The sears stuff was about
    10 bucks i think.  It works GREAT, the best stripper i've ever used.
    The most I had to use it was twice on a few thick stubborn places.
    
    step two is to sand the whole thing with 220 and then 400 by hand
    then fill the holes you need to, stain and apply whatever finish
    you want - i like to spray on satin polyurethane.
    
    I use my compressor and several different sanding tools (a d/a with 80
    grit and a jitterbug with 220) to do my sanding and then a light
    finishing work by hand (400).   
    
    sanding blocks are junk - just get 8.5x11 sanding paper, cut it in
    half, and then fold each half in half and with tape between them (on
    the paper side). You now have a double sided 4.25x5.5 'pad' of sand
    paper. 
    
      happy refinishing
    
    				.dave.

    re: .2  "sanding blocks are junk"
    
    When you sand without a block the only part of the paper that will
    contact the work is the part that is under where your fingers would
    contact the work.  If you look at the bottom of your fingers and 
    picture them on a flat surface you can see that that's not a whole 
    lot of area. So you can end up with an uneven surface as well as
    doing a whole lot of unnecessary work.  Maybe not a real concern with 
    a plain piece of furniture but for a fine piece it seems a shame to 
    put all that work in refinishing and not have it perfect.
    
    George
    

    
    I guess this could be considered true..  note however, that I do
    95% of my sanding with two air sanders, and that they are both quite
    flat.  
    
    The sanding blocks I was speaking of are the abraisive blocks, while
    the automotive kind - reloadable with paper - are infinitely better.
    
    						.dave.

Re: .3, .4

 Right -- I forget the brand name of the product we were talking about
 but it was a brick-shaped jasper that looked to be made of gray foam.
 They were advertised as being good for varnish removal.  We tried 'em
 on paint and they didn't work very well, they got used up very quickly,
 and they stank to high heaven.

 JP

    The only thing I found those blocks good for was for sanding coves.
    Since they do wear away quickly they easily take the shape of what
    your sanding.

    My favorite chemical stripper is DRAINO. The stuff made for clearing
    clogged drains. Its simply LYE in a crystal form. Mix about one
    half can of DRAINO to one gal of HOT (NOT BOILING!!!) water. WOrks
    best if you can arrange to dunk the pieces- I made up a simple wood
    trough, lined it with poly sheet and dunked all the spindles of
    a couple chairs. You can thicken the Lye solution with Starch (remember
    when that stuff was used on shirt collars?) to make it heavy enough
    to paint onto a vertical surface. 
    
    This solution could loosen glue, of the old fashioned hide variety,
    not by chemical action, simply because of the hot water used. 
    
    Lye is a bit nasty to handle, but nothing compared to the petrochemical
    strippers. Lye has been used for centuries, among other things its
    a principal component of soap. In concentrated solution it can cause
    caustic burns to skin. It also will totally and instantly dissolve
    a natural bristle brush. The bristles turn into a slimey lump of
    goo.
    
    Ron - always looking for the least expensive way- Ginger
    

About the easiest stripper that I have used is BIX, and it is easy because it is
water soluable.  Paint it on, let it sit, wash it off.  You have to watch it 
with veneer because a lot of old veneer is held down with hide glue, which, as 
was previously mentioned, is water soluable also.

I'd never use it on a really valuable piece because the water raises the grain, 
and it removes the 'patina' acquired by age.  But for the quick strip of an old 
dresser, it beates sanding any day.

Paul

    	I have been refinishing old and antique furniture for a couple
    of years now and I use a number of methods for removing paint and
    old finishes.If I was doing an old dresser with just varnish or
    shelac on it I would use a stripper called 5F5,it's water soluable,
    doesn't raise the grain very much (your going to lightly sand it
    any way),it costs about $12.00 a gallon (enough to probably do 4
    dressers).I recomend staying away from "Formby" only for the cost
    of the products.He has no magic formulas that aren't used in standard
    finishing products,you just have to know what they are.I would bet
    his antique refinisher solution contains just laquer thinner and
    denatured alcohol.
    	
    	My method would be to strip the dresser on section at a time.
    Including the area you previously stripped.
    laying it on its side or back so the stripper doesn't run all over
    the place.Brush the stripper on and let it sit for about 15 minutes.
    The first coat of stripper can be lightly picked up with a scraper.
    A second coat of stripper should then be applied.Get some #0 steel
    wool and unwrap a pad (you get more out of it this way)tear some
    off,fold it over and clean up the second coat of stripper in the
    direction of the grain.If it still looks like some of the old finish
    still remains repeat with another coat of stripper,this time use
    #000 steel wool for clean up.After your satisfied that the old finish
    is removed, clean all the surfaces with #000 steel wool and denatured
    alcohol.this realy cleans up any residue and leaves the surface
    ready for sanding.
    	Unless the piece has scratches or other problems you shouldn't
    have to sand very much.I would use 150 and/or 220 also.I use a
    Makita palm sander but you can do it by hand just as easy.your
    only taking off the tiny raised fibers of the wood,so you don't
    have to sand for hours.
    	The piece can now be stained and finished to your liking.
    
                                                                    

    I've used Fornby's alot for refinishing antiques (some not so
    antique!), and agree with your assessment of cost per application.
    I have found that Fornbys is much more cost effective if you wipe
    it off with a rag before it dries, but after you have softened the
    finish. If you do not do this, the softened finish re-solidifies
    when the fornbys dries, and you have to start the whole process over
    again.
    
    I do find that Fornbys is an effective means of removing
    varnish or poly materials, and is very easy on the wood.
    
    Regarding sanding the piece, this can often be quite harsch on the
    wood. Using steel wool would be my choice.                                      
    
    

    I've refinished alot of wood boats.  Since I was covering huge areas
    with stripper, the stuff would tend to dry before you could remove
    it.  Sometimes there would be so much paint that I'd have to do
    multiply coats of stripper.  The one trick that I found works like
    a charm is to get a roll of wax paper.  After brushing on the stripper
    in a section, place a piece of wax paper over the section and remove
    any air pockets.
    
    The wax paper (probably foil also, but more expensive) prevents
    the stripper from drying out and will keep the stripper "working"
    until you can come back to it with a scrapper.  Also plastic and
    rubber seem to disintegrate instantly upon contact with the stripper.

       
         Does anyone have a good formula for "tack clothes"?  Something
    for removing dust from wood before staining or after sanding between
    polyurethane coats.  I've heard that some people use a cloth dampened
    in varnish, but I don't think I'd want that to touch material that
    hasn't been stained yet.
    
         Any suggestions would be appreciated.
    
    Mike
    

    A tack cloth IS a piece of cheesecloth dampened with varnish.  Any
    paint store should have them ready-made.  Just keep it in the plastic
    bag when you're not using it.  They're cheap enough and they're safe so
    I wouldn't worry about making my own and maybe screwing up my finish. 
    
    -joet

    You don't need to use a tack cloth before or between stain coats;
    just dust away loose sawdust.
    
    The tack cloth is useful before and between varnish coats, to pick
    up all loose particles after sanding. Since the staining is finished,
    you don't have to worry about small amounts of varnish that might
    be left on the wood

    From "Home Mechanix", September 1986 "Home and Auto Q&A" column:
    
    "How can I make my own tack cloth?
    				Keith D. Marple
    				Los Angeles
    
    Harry Wicks, HM's Executive Editor, provides the answer: start with
    cheesecloth that has been washed several times, or a lint-free cloth.
    Soak the cloth in tepid water, then wring it out lightly to remove
    excess water.  Sprinkle the cloth with turpentine, shake it out
    loosly and dribble a fine stream of varnish back and forth on it
    until fully spattered.
    
    Next, fold up the edges toward the center and twist the cloth into
    a tight roll (this forces out any water).  Open up the cloth, refold
    it and wring it out again as tightly as possible to ensure that
    the turpentine and varnish penetrate all the fibers.  Finally, shake
    out the cloth and hang it up for several minutes before use.
    
    A tack rag is just right if it is soft and has a trace of stickiness.
    It can be used over and over if stored in a tightly covered container.
    If it becomes too dry, i.e., loses its tackiness, sprinkle on a
    few drops of water, recover and set it in a warm place."
    
    -joet                                       
    
    P.S.  It's a good magazine.  I'd recommend it to everyone out there.

    re .3
    
    Is this the same as Dave Barry's "How to make a board"? 8-)
    
    			Fred
    

    re: .4
    
    In name only.
    
    -joet

    	IS THAT KIND OF LIKE WEARING "TACKY CLOTHES"?....JORGE'

    
    Thanks for the reply.  I also receive "Home Mechanics" and read
    this article.  I agree, it's a very informative magazine.
    
    Thanks again,
    
    Mike
    

I am currently making a piece of children's furniture that call for a non-toxic
finish. I have never heard of such a thing. Is there a source to get such a
product...? I also need a wood filler with the same qualities, since the piece
is oak.

							Robert

I believe Watco Oil is certified safe for wooden parts used for food
preparation (e.g. cutting boards).  Check them out, they are in any good
hardware store.  There are other finishes which were created specifically
for their non-toxicity.  They would be used for salad bowls, spoons etc.
These may not be as readily available unless you were at a store which
had a good selection of wood finishing products.

-peter

    I think that Tung Oil might also be safe - check the labels to be
    sure.
    
    I am pretty sure that Linseed Oil is NOT safe.

    Food grade linseed oil works well but smells after a couple of days.
    The smell takes about 2 weeks to dispate.  I used it on some bird
    cages.  Only place I could find it was a health food store.  
    
    By the way shopsmith use to sell this stuff as salad bowel finish
    and charge more.

    WHo knows how to refinish furnture?  I'm planning on doing several
    pieces this summer.   I know how to apply stain and polyurethane,
    but what do you use to take off all the old varnish?  Where should
    I do this - outside, basement, etc?
    
    Lori

    Depends on what you really want to do.
    
    
    I use a chemical stripper called 5F5 which (I think) works very
    well, especially on varnish and old finishes.  It is somewhat toxic
    and needs to be used in a 'ventilated area'.  I usually do it in
    the basement with a fan in the window for proper ventilation.
    (that's cause when Im working, its not really all that nice outside)
    
    
    -bill

         I have refinished many pieces small and large. You may want
    to consider taking your pieces to a professional furniture stripper.
      They have the tools and equipment to get into all the nooks
      and cranies. They are also covered to take away the chemical
      and waste and dispose of it in a proper manner. It would be
      better than you washing this chemical down your sink,tollet or
      in your back yard. This stripping chemical has [methylenechloride]
    [ sp] the main chemical which is very harmful if not disposed of
    properly. I,m not trying to drum up busness for the local stripping
    co. but to see that you get a good job done and save the environment.
       If you would like more info. call me or send mail.
    
    
             Lou R     SPMFG1::RAYMONDL
             243-2784 
    

    If you use any of the chemical strippers, "good ventilation" is
    a definite requirement.  It also makes a real mess (at least I
    always make a real mess!) and you should have plenty of newspapers
    down to catch the drips and spills.  A cheap, effective stripper
    is just plain old lye.  I believe there's a note someplace in this
    file that gives the proportions of water and lye to use.  A good
    book on refinishing and furniture repair in general is "The
    Furniture Doctor", by George Grotz.

If you want to go for ease, try BIX stripper.  You just put it on, let it sit a 
while, and then wash it off with water.  It is perhaps a little harsher on the 
wood than some other strippers, and the water raises the grain a little bit, 
but for ease of use it can't be beat.  I've refinished a couple of things with 
it and they look great.

Paul

    	I use a product called Strip-Eez that works well and is easy
    to use.  It comes two ways - liquid and semi-paste.  The semi-paste
    is the consistency of almost-set pudding so it doesn't run if you're
    working on something that can't be put on its side (like woodwork).
    You spread it on and it bubbles the paint off.  Don't use it in
    direct sunlight or it will get really sticky, i.e., don't do a dresser
    in your driveway at high noon.  Again, make sure you have good
    ventilation in whatever area you're working.
    
    	Conni
    

    
    Then of course there's the sears stuff.  I bought a gallon of sears
    heavy bodied paint stripper.  With it I did a kitchen table, six
    chairs, a coffee table, and a small desk; and I still have some
    left.  
    
    I first apply it with a brush, then use a scraper to get rid of the
    first coat.  The second coat is on the areas that there is still
    a little left, and the nooks and crannies.  These are gotten with
    steal wool and a bucket of water (used to wash the steal wool so
    it will last, and so that your hands won't melt). 
    
    The last thing is some sanding with 220 or so.  Then refinish.
    
    						.dave.

    Can light scratches be lifted out without refinishing the whole
    piece?  I've heard about using some kind of rubbing compound 
    to lift the scratches and then waxing.  Does anyone know if this
    works?

    Re: .7
    We have a cat that loves to climb on everything (never seen a cat
    that doesn't) including our dining room table. He made some nasty
    looking scratches on the finish with his claws as he was landing
    and trying to stop on the highly polished surface. I used a mild
    rubbing compound and wax product (you can threaten my life and I
    still won't remember the name of it) designed for car finishes.
    It didn't do much for the car but, boy, it works wonders on 
    furniture finishes. Like with anything else, it's a matter of degree.
    If there is some amount of finish left under the scratch, a mild
    abrasive will work. Using it often will eventually remove the finish.
    I've also heard of people who use car wax instead of furniture polish.
    I have never tried that, but I suppose it isn't much different from
    using the rubbing compound and wax method. If you try it, remember
    to polish with a circular motion and do it a bit at a time. Use
    your judgement to avoid overdoing it.
    

    Re: .7
    
    In a local hardware shop where I live in the UK they sell small
    'bars' of hard wax,with different stain shades foor oak,teak,pine
    etc. etc. You rub the bar hard over the scratch filling it with
    the wax ..... it works *very* well, particularly if you have the
    right shade of wax. Can you get this where you are?


               Chris H
    

I've just recently completed building some drawers for a built-in dresser in my
son's bedroom. The drawers are made out of the standard sort of 1X8 you'd get
at a local lumber yard (pine?). I was planning to polyurethane just the front's
of the drawer (the parts facing into the room) but my wife reminded me that we
might want to polyurethane the entire drawer to prevent splitting and cracking
later on. All the other dressers (bought ready made) in the house have just the
fronts polyurethaned but then they are either made of oak or something that
appears to be denser than pine.

I don't especially want to spend the time to polyurethane the entire drawers
but will do it if I'm to be faced with drawers that fall apart in a couple of
years.  Any suggestions?


Thanks
Paul

			

    excuse the stupid question which follows, please...
    
    If you examine drawers from several pieces of furniture, I think
    you'll see that the interiors of the drawers aren't finished (or
    maybe they are).  Do you expect this particular item to be
    substantially different from them?
    
    Dick
    

    re: < Note 1099.1 by ARGUS::CURTIS "Dick 'Aristotle' Curtis" >

    I don't expect them to be different but I thought that maybe pine
    is more susceptible to splitting. The reason I was concerend was
    that we have a table made out of pine which is polyurethaned on
    only one side (the top). The table has a couple of cracks and someone
    told my wife that if we had polyurethaned the bottom we wouldn't
    have had the problem.
    
    So, although I've never seen entire drawers polyurethaned, I also
    haven't seen too many made out of pine, and I just thought I'd play
    it safe and ask the question in case anyone "knew" the answer.
    
    Paul
    

    I'd say the hell with it!  Both my son and daughters bedroom draws
    are made of pine!  I have had one set for 10 yrs.  and there is
    no sign of wear on the inside...unfinshed draws!  I don't care if
    something is urethaned or not....if its real dry heat you have wood
    will crack over a period of time!  I'd say just do the front!  If
    I'm wrong on this...seek me out and shoot me;-)!
    
    							John

I am refinishing an old home-made trestle table that has sentimental value for
the family.  The top of the table is just 3 2x12's -- which is the source of my
problem.  They currently are positioned with a 1/4" gap between them, which for
obvious reasons is not good for a dining table (especially with kids!).

I want to glue them together edge-to-edge.  But they are warped (slightly) in
several dimensions, and the edges don't butt well.  What's a good way of making
two edges match well enough to glue them?  I have only hand power tools.
I know that would be easier to get new wood for the top (or a new table), but
I'm trying to preserve some intangible values by using the old wood.

Any ideas?  I'm also open to creative solutions such as filling the gap with
something (which would have to look good under a clear finish).  Thanks!

Bob

You'd be welcome to stop by my place and run them over my jointer.

Paul

      Clamp a straight-edge onto the table such that it will guide the
    blade of a circular saw through the gap. It will cut off the high
    spots and leave the rest. You may have to move the straight-edge
    depending on the width you need to cut. Of course you do this with
    the table together. When you're done, you the remount the top so
    you can bring the pieces together.
    
    					Kenny

    I think gluing is discussed extensively in the TOOLS file.  Enter
    KP7 to add it.

re Note 222.3 by JOET::JOET:

>     It can be used over and over if stored in a tightly covered container.

Is this safe to store?  It sounds like it might be a candidate for "spontaneous
combustion".

Bob

I've just put 4 coats of polyurethane on my refinished dining room table and I
was wondering if I should do anything to "finish" the finish.

Specifically, I read somewhere a recommendation to use 0000 steel wool and
"cream polish" (what is that?) after the final coat dries.  Is that a
reasonable recommendation?  Are there any alternative suggestions?  Should I
just leave it alone?

Thanks,
Bob

    I heard of putting a thinned coat of poly as the last coat. Gives
    it a harder, smoother finish.
    John
    

Personally, I don't like a glossy finish so I always go over the last coat
with steel wool.  Dulls it down real nicely...

-mark

re Note 1147.2 by BOEHM::SEGER:

> Personally, I don't like a glossy finish so I always go over the last coat
> with steel wool.  Dulls it down real nicely...

Do you wet the steel wool, or use it dry?

Bob

I just use real fine steel wool and rub it down the same as one would between
coats.

-mark

    Hell if I know.  I would guess that the "tightly covered container"
    would be on ther order of a plastic bag.  I bet that "spontaneous
    combustion" requires a bit more air.
    
    -joet 

                Typically a "tightly covered container" in this sense
        would NOT be anything that is flammable! A metal can of some
        sort (with a metal top) is the best bet. There are cans made for
        industry which are designed specifically for holding "oil soaked
        rags" or the like. They work in two ways at the same time. One -
        contain any combustion that may take place within them, and Two
        - reduce the amount of air available (this is the really the
        most important).
                
                /s/     Bob

       I would rub it down with the 0000 steel wool or worn 400 sand
    paper. Worn sand paper is just taking two pieces of the sand paper
    and rubbing them together. By rubbing down your final coat this
    way you will be removing the tiny nicks and bumps caused by dust
    getting on the finish as it dries. Rub your hand over the finish
    as you go and you'll be able to feel how smooth your getting the
    finish. After your done rubbing it down go over the finish with
    a tack cloth or a rag dampend with mineral spirits. This will
    pick up all the dust you created by rubbing it down. Finish it
    off by applying a good paste wax such as Minwax or Briwax and 
    it down with a clean cloth. This should give you a nice hand
    rubbed looking finish.
    
    						Mike
    

    Quite often "mineral spirits" are recommended for cleaning up after
    sanding or for thinning distillate-based paints/finishes/etc.
    
    When I see "mineral spirits", I think "turpentine".
    
    What do all of you use for "mineral spirits"???
    
    Randy
    

    
    RE: .5  I disagree with using a paste wax -- I'd stay away from
    any wax, because after you wax, if you need to reapply a maintenance
    coat, you'll wind up resanding the surface, whereas if you just
    simpy leave it, or rub it with a lemon oil, you can reapply future
    coats simply by just roughing up the last coat then applying another
    coat.  If you wax, you must get the entire poly finish off before
    reapplying.

    RE: .7 I disagree with using a lemon oil furniture polish. A lot
    of furniture polishes today including lemon oil polishes contain
    Silcone. Silicone is harder to remove than wax, it leaves a  thin
    film on the surface and will prevent subsequent coats of anything
    from adhering to the surface. Wax on the other hand can be removed
    by using turpintine and fine steel wool, then wipe down with a rag
    and mineral spirits. I'm not sure why you would have to reapply
    maintenance coats of Polyurethane it is a very durable finish.
    
    							Mike
    

    i just bought an oak table at a garage sale, and i'm in the    
    process of refinishing it. it is time to sand some contoured
    edges, and spiral legs, and not looking forward to it.
    
    any tips ???
    
    i've already removed most of the old finish using FORBEYs 
    paint and varnish remover.
    
    thanks
    tony
    

    There was a good article in the "Old House Journal" a few months
    back covering all of the finish work to be done after removing the
    finish with a stripper.
    
    Sanding was just one of the topics covered.
    
    - Mark

	Tony,
	
	Have you thought about using a rotary type sander?  One of those
	deals that you put into your drill.  I've used them in the past
	with fairly good results.

	-gary

    Flap sanders are an excellent way to trash a perfectly good piece
    of furniture.  Use the hand sanding method -- it's safer.
    
    If you strip the old finish off sufficiently, your sanding chores
    should be minimal. When necessary, I use 220 carborundum.
    
    					andrew

    re.3 I agree they will ruin your best efforts.
    Better to go the long hard method and be happy with the finished product.
                                     
    -j
    

I'm far from an expert, but I probably refinished around a dozen oak pieces and
have never used nor would even contemplate using sandpaper on them.  Once I get
the majority of gunk off, I put on another coat of stripper and rub it off using
coarse steel wool (admitedly this is close to being sandpaper).  The results are
usually impressive (or maybe I'm just easily impressed).

To me, sandpaper will remove any character the piece may have.  Many old pieces
have never seen a piece of sandpaper in their life, including when they were
originally built.

-mark

    Anyone use those oddly-shaped pieces of sheet metal that you scrape
    with?  It seems like you could get into any moldings and strange
    corners without changing the shape of the protrusions around them
    like a flapper sander would.  Never tried them myself, but I hear
    if they're kept sharp, they do a nice job.
    
    -joet
    
    P.S  Yes, Spag's carries them.

    True Value Hardware Stores (like the one in Maynard Center) carry
    a sanding block that will assume the shape of the object you are
    sanding as you use it. I don't remember the name of the product
    but each block is about 3" x 3" by 8", is black in color, and smells
    like rotten eggs as you use it.
    
    They cost about $1.50 each and tend to get used up fairly quickly
    depending on the surface being sanded but work GREAT.
    

    Re: .6
    
    "Those odd shaped pieces of sheet metal" are called cabinet scrapers.
    They are what were probably used by the guy who made the table and
    never showed it a piece of sandpaper.
    
     
    
    

     i've just finished , with my table.
    
     best advice i can give now, is not to do much sanding.
    
     keep using a paint remover time and time again. until
     you have gotten all out that is coming out.
    
     then use a wood bleach to get any stains out of the grain. 
    
     keep sanding to a minimun. oak does not sand very easy. 
     and because it has such a pourous grain , you can not sand out
     stain.
    
    			thanks for all the replies
    				tony

    there is a better way to strip paint.
    
    RE: 73.1
    
    <<There is no easy way to get paint off, unless of course you want it to
      stay on.>>
    
    Not true, not true!!!
    
    I have just discovered the miracle tool for stripping paint.
    It's the HEAT GUN!  Just turn it on, and the paint just bubbles
    away from the wood, and comes off easily with a scraper.  It's
    supposed to work wonders on window puddy, too.  Then just vacuum
    up the paint chips afterward.  I imagine that a chemical stripper
    might be necessary for very intricate wood work, but this works
    great for most stuff.  Not only that, but if some of you have
    to work with lead paint (like me), it is supposed to be one of
    the least hazardous methods of removal.  If you decide to buy
    one of these miracle tools, they go on sale fairly often, you
    shouldn't have to pay more than $20-35, depending on the power
    and the attachments that come with it.
    
    BTW, a warning to those who use chemical strippers (as well as
    varnishes and stains), methylene chloride (a common ingredient
    in many of these things) is extremely hazardous stuff.  Use
    a good mask and ventilate the area.
    
        			TM

    I am thinking of refinishing a few old oak straight backed chairs.
    Instead of the traditional ez strip and scrape I was thinking of
    getting them dipped.  Does anyone know of a place that does this
    and the approximate cost?  
    
                          Thanks,
                           Tom

    If you care about the chairs and/or they'll be actually used, I
    wouldn't have them dipped.  They'll look nice but glue-joints tend
    to become non-glue-joints after dipping (unless the chair is dismantled
    and put back together again).
    
    Pete

Where do you live?  I know of 3 places in the 
Newburyport/Amesbury/Haverhill area.


...bill

    I'd Like to know... I live in the Boxborough/Harvard area.
    
    Thanks,
    
    /Brian

    I know that there is a place in Marlboro (Ma) on Maple Street that does
    "dip" style stripping. I have never used them preferring to hand
    strip. The name of the business is Robertson's Furniture Refinishing.
    You could probably find additional people that offer this service
    listed in the yellow pages under "furniture repairing/refinishing".

	I have used a place in Chelmsford named "Jolly Tar" for
	drip/strip.  Stripped a porcelain sign which had been 
	painted with floor and deck enamel and a large toy
	steam-powered boat.  Location is off route 110 on the
	right as you head toward Westford in an small lockup
	in an industrial park across 110 from a trailer park.

	Bill G.

    I am planning to build a coffee table from 1X6 Oak. Could use a few
pointers. At this point, I have two specific questions:
	
	- To join the wood strips together, my options seem to be
	a Rabbet cut the length of the strips or dowel pin joining.
	I have a doweling jig and a router. Any suggestions for 
	approach?

	- If doweling is the preferred method, does one glue only
	at the dowel joints, or along the length of wood. Wouldn't
	going the length cause gaps between the strips?

Thanks,

Mike Bouchard

    > I am planning to build a coffee table from 1x6 oak.
    
    Just out of curiosity, why aren't you using 1" oak plywood for
    the top?
    
    Other than that, all I can say is make sure the wood is very
    dry.  I tried making a tabletop out of glued together oak,
    and the joints spread.
    

If you're just edge-gluing the boards, you don't need any dowels or rabbets-
the glue joint will be plenty strong.  Make sure though that if you put any 
cross-grain cleats on the bottom of the tabletop, you allow for wood movement, 
otherwise the top will crack no matter how you join it.

Paul

Re .-1
> Make sure though that if you put any cross-grain cleats on the bottom of
> the tabletop, you allow for wood movement, otherwise the top will crack
> no matter how you join it.

     ----  ----  ----  ----
    |    ||    ||    ||    |        How does one "allow for wood movement"?
    |    ||    ||    ||    |        If "A" is the cleat, wouldn't you
    |  ------------------  |        put fasteners (screws, dowels) at
    | |x    x  A  x     x| |        locations "x"?
    |  ------------------  |        (There's at least one more cleat under
    |    ||    ||    ||    |        the tabletop.)
    |    ||    ||    ||    |

    One way of allowing for movement would be to use slots in the cleat
    rather than round holes for the screws.  The slots should be oriented
    along the length of the cleat.  Kind of like this:  
    		 _______________________________
    		|				|
    		|  ==      ==      ==      ==	|
    		|				|
    		 -------------------------------

    Glue will be strong enough by itself but remember to clamp it well.
    You should use plenty of pipe or bar clamps ALTERNATING which side
    of the table top the pipe is on. Also it helps a lot if you can
    plane the edges of the strips so that they are slightly concave
    (low in the middle). This helps keep a serious glue line from appearing
    where it's visible and makes the edges "snug up" much better.
    
    If you don't have alot of pipe clamps you can make a good clamping
    jig from 1/2" ply wood and some scrap lumber. Screw cleats to the
    plywood so that they are slightly farther apart than the width of
    the table top.  prepare several thin wedges (1 for each cleat)
    which are wider, at their widest, then the distance from the cleat
    to the table top. Glue the table top up, between the cleats, and
    tap the wedges in between the cleats and the top, alternate which
    way the wedges go.  Put some boards across the top and weight it
    down to keep the top from buckling.
    
    Alan

    I would suggest picking up a copy of the Fine Woodworking book on
    table making.  I have a copy, and it is full of ideas on how to
    put one together as well as making sure it stays together.
    
    In addition the current issue (Novemver/December) of Fine Woodworking
    has a good article on why wood will split and why joints separate.
    There were also some good tips on just what types of glue to use
    as well as how to repair damage.
    
    Another method of joining the planks for the table top would be
    to spline them.  You could use several small splines or one continuous
    spline.  This can be done with either a router or a special splining
    tool.  (As mentioned previously, edge glueing is probable sufficient,
    anything above that would most likely be overkill.)
    
    Hope this helps.
    
    - Mark

    
    
    Does anyone know of any unfinished furniture places that are not
    expensive?   Or even a furniture outlet of some kind?  I'm looking
    for 3 barstools but cant afford to spend a whole lot.  So far, the
    cheapest place I've found is in Northboro - swivel with back rest
    for approx. $55.00.
    
    Any suggestions at all would be of help.
    
    Thanks.
    
    

    
    
      There's one in Auburn on rt 12 near Grossmans. Its a pretty big
    place with fairly reasonable prices. Sorry I can't remember the
    name...

    Check the Settle Shop in Townsend, Mass.  I bought some heavy ones
    there a few years ago for $50.  Also The Mill Yard in Hashua has
    alot of stuff.  It is a huge place, and no sales tax. It is
    cheaper than alot of unfinished stores.
    
    Bonnie

Don't know if this is the same as in .2, but there is an unfinished 
place in Townsend on 111.

>    Don't know if this is the same as in .2, but there is an unfinished 
>place in Townsend on 111.

    111 doesn't go thru Townsend.  The Settle Shop is on 119 in West
    Townsend.  Their unfinished furniture is mostly made by Mastercraft
    which is what most unfinished furniture places sell.  The prices
    are pretty much the same everywhere.  You might get it a little
    cheaper at Unfinished Furniture Village on 101 in Amherst, NH.
    
    

    There's an unfinished furniture store on RT 9 eastbound in Framingham
    on top of the Ski Market.
    
    -al

    Cohasset Colonials in Cohasset, MA looks like it has some nice pieces.
    I think the prices look reasonable. Cohasset is about 20 miles south
    of Boston along 3A.  Call them at (617)383-0110 - they can mail
    you a catalog. 
      I have an old catalog ('80) - the small Salem table I wanted to
    get was discontinued about 81 or 82 !

There is also a cheap place in Billerica Center, I think it's called
Rustic House.

Brad.

    
    I "second" the vote for "The Mill Store" in the Millyard Mall in
    Nashua. I'm often surprised at how inexpensive they can be for
    the woods they use. The Mill Store is moving though, this week or
    next it's moving onto 101A (Amherst St., exit 7W from rte 3). I
    think it's moving to the mall where Zayres is... a few miles down
    the road on the left.
    
    							 * MAC *

    We just put together a TV corner cabinet kit from Yield House.  We've
stained it once (the first coat is just the shade we want - another coat would
make it too dark, I think).  We used a Minwax stain which claims to have some
sealing properties.
    Now we want to finish it.  My wife wants a wax-able finish - I guess she
wants to keep it shiny all the time, or something.
    Can we wax right over the stain?
    Can we wax over some polyurethane?  (Previous notes seemed to disagree.)
    Is poly the (easy) way to go?

                If you used Minwax stain, then (at least in my opinion)
        you have two alternatives. One is to Poly it with either a gloss
        or satin poly (Minwax's is good). The other is to do what people
        used to do and wax it with real wax (again Minwax wax is good
        stuff). The wax is a more "natural" finish, but does require
        more maintainence (waxing). In either case, you will require
        multiple coats and some elbow grease, with the waxing being more
        of a chore. If you use the poly, make sure that you lightly sand
        (or steel wool) between coats. Even a little makes a tremendous
        difference (from a disbeliever who has since learned from
        experience that it really is true).
                
                /s/     Bob

    Another option is several coats of tongue oil.  This will also give
    a more natural finish than polyurethane.
    

  The other alternative to poly is varnish.  However, since pine is so soft,
  you might be better off with wax or oil.  That way, if (when) the pine
  gets dented, the finish won't crack.

  JP

    	My current favorite finish combines the best of both worlds -
    	50% tongue oil, and 50% satin poly. This gives the finish
     	the softer, natural feel of the oil finish, but gives
    	the piece the protection of the poly.
    
    	Easy to apply with just a cloth.        
    
        I would recommend that if you use this, only mix what you will
    	need, as the shelf-life is short.
               
    		Dave

>    	50% tongue oil

"Tung"

Paul

>>    	50% tongue oil
>
>"Tung"

Are you sure?  Maybe tongue oil is like elbow grease....  :-)

					>>>==>PStJTT

    "Tung" is a bean. Like vanilla or coffee...    -Tom R.

    Some pro's and con's. Waxing may be good, but as you continue to
    wax it will build up, and some day needs to be removed.
    Poly is fine, but if dented its difficult to repair.
    I would recommend tung oil as a final finish, or varnish,
    with no wax applied ever. Varnish can be repaired, if
    dents occur later on.
    
    jim.

    Thanks for your replies.
    Mention has been made of denting and cracking.  Could someone rate these
finishes (poly, varnish, (tung) oil) in terms of:
    a. protection from stains/water/etc
    b. protection from scratches/dents/etc
    c. ease of application (how many coats, brush or rub, etc)

    And what's difficult about repairing a dent?  (A crack sounds impossible.)

    (I'll also poke around in DELNI::TOOLS.)

    "whats difficult about repairing a dent" Oh nothing, except that
    if you just look at pine it seems to dent. The difficulty
    comes whan you don't want the repaired area to show.
    You can easily repair a dent if the item is varnished,
    fill in the dent, stain it to match, and varnish it
    using 0000 steel wool to blend in the leading edge.
    With poly you will have to sand the entire side
    or the entire area all the way out to the edge.
    Poly is not something you can feather out like 
    varnish. 
    
    jim

    	Tung oil by far is one of the easiest finishes to aplly and
    maintain. You apply it with a cloth and you can build up a fairly
    good finish by applying multiple coats, leting each coat dry and
    rubbing down with 000 or 0000 steel wool between each coat. Fixing
    a scratch or ding in the finish is as simple as getting out Tung
    oil and applying another thin coat.
    	The problem with repairing other finishes is that any wax or
    furniture polish thats applied during your wifes cleaning sprees
    must first be removed before any Varnish,Urethane, or Laquer can
    be reapplied. This is more difficult than it sounds, especialy
    furniture polish because most of them contain silicon and silicon
    is extremly difficult to totaly remove. What happens is that the
    silicon prevents the finish from adhering to the old finish and
    you end up with somthing called fish eyes on the surface. They
    look like tiny little craters.
    

I have some unfinished furniture in my daughter's room that
I would like to paint.   One piece of furniture is stained.
I also would like to paint her BED which is now a dark pine
color.

My question is, do I need to use primer first or do I just
paint it.??

I would like to use a WHITE GLOSSY paint safe for a kids room.

Any suggestions on what to do?

How many coats of paint?

Do I use a paint brush?  what kind?

What brand name paint to use?


THANK YOU IN ADVANCE......                  G

	I'm not an expert painter, but ...

	I think you can just paint it, but a primer would make a smoother
	coat.  Lightly sanding the first coat makes a nicer second coat.
	You probably don't have to prime the stained furniture.  Try a
	small daub of paint on it somewhere and see what happens.

	A glossy white latex enamal sounds about right.  Oil-based
	enamel probably gives a better finish, but it's a giant pain,
	what with its fumes and cleanup.

	Expect a couple of coats, especially if you're covering something
	dark with white paint.

	I'm a trifle partial to those sponge pseuso-brushes, because
	I hate cleaning brushes, and I just discard the sponge.  If
	you use a brush, use a nice one, i.e. expensive.  If you spend
	$25 on painting stuff, you might as well buy a $6 brush instead
	of a $3 brush.  I've used cheapo paint and cheapo brushes many
	times: big mistake.  You get bristles and streaks everywhere.
	I lack the experience to understand why people say Nylon for Latex,
	bristle for oil.  I do sloppy work with any combination.

	Almost any name brand of paint is good.  Also, almost any name
	brand of paint can be bad.  You might get more attention in a
	paint store than in a discount store.

	Regards, Robert.

	PS  Look at note 1111.55 for a list of paint notes.

    I'M AN OIL BASE PAINT FAN.  LATEX IS GOOD ON WALLS/CEILINGS BUT
    THATS ABOUT IT.  AS FOR BRAND PREFERENCE I'D USE BENJAMIN MOORE.
    AS FOR BRUSH, GET A GOOD CHINESE BRISTLE $7-10. DO USE A PRIMER,
    AND AFTER THAT 2 LIGHT COATS OF A FINISH OIL BASE.
    AS FOR THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN NYLON AND BRISTLE, IF YOU USE
    A NYLON WITH AN OIL BASE PRODUCT, THE BRUSH HAS A TENDENCY TO 
    DRAG, LEAVING STREAKS. AS FOR THE STAINED PIECE, ONE COAT OF
    PRIMER, THEN 2 COATS FINISH. WHATEVER, DON'T BUY THE PAINT
    AT SPAGS, YES ITS LESS EXPENSIVE, BUT THOSE TRAILERS OUT BACK
    ARN'T HEATED, PAINTS ETC. DON'T LIKE THE COLD. ANYWAY, YOU'LL
    GET BETTER INFO AT A GOOD PAINT STORE, WHICH IIN MY MIND
    IS WELL WORTH THE EXTRA FEW BUCKS.
    
    
    HAPPY PAINTING,
    
    JIM.

    RE: .2 (paint at Spag's)
    
    I don't believe Spag's stores their paint outside in the trailers.
    I think they keep it inside, right behind the paint shelves.  That's
    where I've had to pick it up before.  I'm sure they know better
    than to freeze their paint and cause massive returns and hard feelings.
    
    Phil

    RE: .2 (PAINT AT SPAG'S)
    
    I DON'T BELIEVE SPAG'S STORES THEIR PAINT OUTSIDE IN THE TRAILERS.
    I THINK THEY KEEP IT INSIDE, RIGHT BEHIND THE PAINT SHELVES.  THAT'S
    WHERE I'VE HAD TO PICK IT UP BEFORE.  I'M SURE THEY KNOW BETTER
    THAN TO FREEZE THEIR PAINT AND CAUSE MASSIVE RETURNS AND HARD FEELINGS.
    
    PHIL  ;-)
    

    
    RE 3:   I use milk paint a lot and you get best results on bare
    wood. It is a very flat water based paint. In order to get a
    glossy or semi glossy finish it has to be sealed with 2 coats of
    cut Shellac and then a top coat of varnish. Don't use Milk Paint
    over Oil based paint or an existing finish it wil not adhere 
    properly and eventualy will flake and chip.
    

    
    
    
    Does anyone know the cheapest place to by canning for chairs.
       
    
                 Dave E.

    Don't know the prices of the top of my head, but Woodworkers Warehouse
    (a.k.a. Trendlines) offers almost all the supplies you'd need.
    
    The one I frequent is almost right across from Peasant Run (Pheasant
    Lane) Mall in southern N.H.
    
    - Mark
    

    I've used:
    
    	H.H. Perkins Co.
    	P.O. Box AC
    	Amity Station
    	Woodbridge, Conn.  06525
    
    They sell by mail, and I've found them very reliable.  I think
    if you send them $1.00 they'll send their catalog, price list, and
    a booklet on "How To Do Caning".

    I buy cane for a place in Conn.  I'm not sure if it is the cheapest
    because I've never got it from anywhere else.  I will find out the
    name of the place and how much I paid.
    
    		Dick

    Yes, thats the place H H Perkins.  Very reliable.
    
    		Dick

FINISH FOR BABY CRIB
I'M NEARING COMPLETION OF A CRIB FOR EXPECTED EASTER BIRTH.
SOMEONE ASK ME IF I WAS GOING TO BE USING A NONTOXIC FINISH,
OR PAINT.  I REALLY HADN'T GIVEN IT MUCH THOUGHT BUT AM BE-
COMING SOMEWHAT WORRIED, KNOWING THE THE BABY COULD CHEW ON
THE CRIB WHEN HE GETS OLDER.  I KNOW THAT MOST STAINS, VARNISH,
POLYS, OILS, ETC. ARE VERY TOXIC OUT OF THE CAN BUT I FEEL
THAT AFTER CURING A WEEK TO TEN DAYS THEY SHOULD BE OK.
IF THERE IS A PROBLEM I COULD GO WITH A WATER BASE VARNISH
OR AN ENAMEL NON-TOXIC PAINT, BUT I REALLY WANT A NATURAL LOOK
WITH SOME TYPE OF PROTECTIVE COATING LEANING TOWARD A POLY.
ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED...

EXPECTING FATHER S.T.

    WATCO Danish Oil Finish is nontoxic when dry.  The product is an
    oil/resin/sealer that is absorbed into the wood, and hardens it.
    In some of WATCO's literature, they said it is ok for surfaces 
    in contact with food; it should be fine for a crib. 
                                                             
    HOWEVER: WATCO does not provide the protection of a poly finish, 
    and may not stand up to repeated applications of spit and dribble.
             

     From what I understand almost all interior finishes are non-toxic
    when dry. 
    
    					Kenny

I DECIDED TO GO WITH MINWAX POLYSHADES.  ITS A COMBINATION STAIN
AND POLY IN ONE AND REALLY TURNED OUT PRETTY NICE.

STEVE< Note 1991.2 by DRUID::CHACE >
                              -< Check the label >-

     From what I understand almost all interior finishes are non-toxic
    when dry. 
    
    					Kenny

    I was concerned with a finish put on by my father-in-law.  I called
    the company and got the skinny.  In most cases, the label should
    specify.  I don't think it's worth the risk to assume anything.
    
    C

    when I lived in Atlanta, we had a number of chairs recaned by the
    local Institute for the Blind (or some organization like that).
    
    the price was very cheap - maybe 5 to 10 dollars per chair, it was
    tax deductible (a contribution).
    
    while I am all for DIY - this made sense to me for a number of reasons!
    
    	-Barry-
    

    The woodworker's Store in Cambridge also sells cane.
    

    	Be careful about your statement that the price of the recaning
    is tax deductable.  Just because the group that did it is non-profit,
    it doesn't make your cost deductable.
    
    	The rules on this kind of thing go like this (usual caveats
    apply about checking with the IRS or your tax consultant, etc.,
    etc.):
    
    	- If you paid less than the "standard accepted price" for the
    services or item, nothing is deductable.
    
    	- If you paid more than the "standard accepted price" for the
    services or item, only the excess amount paid is deductable.
    
    	For example, if you bought an item at one of those many public
    television auctions for $100 that you could buy at a store for $75,
    the IRS will let you deduct the excess $25 as a donation.  If you
    got it for $50 at the auction, however, there is nothing that is
    deductable.
    
    	If the normal price of recaning is higher than the $5-10 range
    you cited, you can't deduct anything.
    
    							-craig

    I think the "standard accepted price" for caning these days is at
    least $1.00 per hole; I know of one place that charged $1.90/hole.
    It is VERY labor-intensive, although basically easy; just tedious.

    
    Re: .9
    
    	I suspected that $5-10 per chair was pretty cheap.  I didn't
    want to make that claim, though, since I've never seen pricetags
    for it.
    
    	From the sounds of it, none of the quoted price would be tax
    deductable.
    
    							-c
    

    I WENT TO WALLS OF DECOR IN PEABODY AND THEY TOLD ME TO PRIME ALL
    OF THE FURNITURE, FINISHED OR UNFINISHED...
    I ALSO BROUGHT THE PAINT AND PRIMER THERE..
    
    PAINT/PRIMER
    
    CALIFORNIA BRAND, LARCOLOID GLOSS, ENAMEL-ALKYD-URETHANE, PROCELAIN
    WHITE PAINT
    
    OX-LINE, PROFESSIONAL OIL BASE PRIMER AND UNDER COATER- WHITE PRIMER
    
    I THINK THIS WILL DO IT... IF ANYONE HAS ANY SUGGESTIONS LET ME
    KNOW.. IAM GOING TO START PAINTING THE FURNITURE IN TWO WEEKS.
    
    I WAS TOLD TO SAND THE FURNITURE WITH A VERY FINE SANDPAPER..WHICH
    I KNEW I HAD TO DO.
    
    I WILL LET YOU ALL KNOW HOW EVERYTHING WENT.. AND THANKS AGAIN FOR
    ALL THE HELP...
                       
    						G
                                                 

If you're worried about your baby licking, dribbling or chewing on your lastest
woodworking project, there is only one finish to use...



*tongue* oil or course! :-)

    re-.1
    Minor nit that's tung oil.
    

Re: tung/toungue oil

It's-a, it's-a, I say, It's a JOKE, son.
						>>>==>PStJTT    

    
    	Yes, I still buy old furniture and refinish it...  
    I picked up a maple desk with only one coat of varnish so it should
    be no big deal.  However the sides of the desk are veneer and I've
    never refinished veneer before.
    	Can I use heat or stripeeze on the veneer, or should I just
    carefully sand?
    
    					=Ralph=
    

>    	Can I use heat or stripeeze on the veneer, or should I just
>    carefully sand?

I've used the 'stripeeze' type stuff on veneer before, with no problems. The
particular table I used it on had already been damaged some by water - boy, did
that lift the veener!

    I have a couple pieces of furniture that have some chips in the
    finish.  They are not too deep.  I would like to repair them so
    that the repair matches the original finish as much as possible.
    The wood is oak and I am not sure what the finish is.
    
    Does anyone have any suggestions?

    If the chip of scratch is not scarring the grain of the wood there
    is a very simple method of perfectly matching the color.
    
    Simply use lighter fluid (that right, charcoal lighter fluid) and
    a piece of clean 0000 grade steel wool.
    
    Use small circular motions and what will happen is that the fluid
    will loosen the surrounding finish enough to move some of it into
    the area that has been scratched or chipped.
    When done allow at least 24 hours for the finish to re-cure.  Then
    use a high grade furniture wax to give the piece a new look.
    
    Good luck.....
    This method restored a 75 year old table for me without loosing
    any of its antique value.
    
    
    Greg

    I searched and could not find an appropriate entry on various
    approaches to sealing an oak table top. I have thought about
    using everything from envirotex to standard urethane. The problem
    I have is this. I would like a durable finish that can withstand
    the ocassional abuse of a spoon or fork that is rapped on the table.
    Envirotex seems to fit this well except I'm concerned about the
    repairability of scratches that children may inflict. 
    
    What I would like to hear from is people who have experiances with
    different finishes and the plus / minuses of them.
    
    
    						Thanks, Dave
    

Check out the discussion in woodworking_and_tools on DELNI::

Specifically note 835.6 has a method of using polyurethane that "he says"
gives the look of a rubbed oil finish with the durability of poly. I'm
about to try this method on a bathroom vanity I just built.

    
      Bruce (the people who make the floors) has a special wax that
    is applied to otherwise bare oak. It gives a semi-gloss type sheen
    and is FAR more resistant to scratches that urethane. It's also
    easy to apply and a quick re-application is all that's needed to
    restore the original look. I'm impressed with it's durability over
    urethane-coated oak, and I think it looks just as good - if not
    better!  You can get it at Summerville Lumber and at Builder's Square.
    
    					Kenny

    Also check out MOMAX1::ANTIQUES_COLLECTIBLE.  It has a couple on
    notes about finishes.
    
    Hit KP7 to add the conference to your notebook

    
    	Has anyone ever heard of "knee-wall furniture". I'm looking 
        to build-in a chest of drawers, and the guy at the 
    	unfinished furniture store suggested this. It's a chest 
    	with no	sides, specifically made for built-ins.
    
    	thanks

    Check note 2857 for more information about kneewall drawers.
    
    (Found it in the keyword MISC.  Not always obvious but I knew it
    was out there somewhere.)

    Does anyone know someone who replaces what I understand to be called
    "press cane"? I have a Breuer Style chair seat that needs replacing.
    I've found that a number of stores have a "secret source" and want to
    double or triple the source's price!
    
    Need someone in Maynard/Marlboro/Worcester/Metrowest area. Please reply
    here and to LEDS::GRAY (dtn 291-7054).
    
    Thanks

    The Woodworker's store in CAmbridge sells caning supplies.  Maybe
    they can help.
    
    George

    	Mr. Moderator, doing searches over the NET from CXO is impossible.
    I have looked through the adhesive and glue, etc. notes and can't
    find anything like what I am looking for.  If there are previous
    notes on this, please direct me to them.
    
    	My problem is that the rungs between the chair legs of my dining
    room set are coming loose.  These are Maple chairs, original
    manufacture in the early 1920s, and refinished ????? times.  I have
    tried wrapping the ends of the rungs with string and then gluing
    and forcing them together, tried the wedge in the end of the rung
    trick, and tried wood glue, epoxy, Elmer's, and hyde glues.  Any
    ideas out there of a way of gluing and securing these rungs into
    the chair legs that will last longer than 6 months?  I also want
    this to NOT ruin the appearance of the chairs since they are still
    in great shape despite their age.
    
    ADVthanksANCE
    
    Wayne

	Last week, the Woodwright PBS show covered how to make hidden
	dovetails - looks like this might be something you should look 
	into...

	The way he did it was to cut a groove in the peg, and place a 
	wooden wedge in the groove.  He also widdened the base of the
	hole which in your case would be in the chair leg.  He then
	forced the peg into the hole, and as he forced it in, the wedge
	was driven into the peg, making it widen.


	Poor drawing follows...


						-sjk

	Before driving the peg in:
                 |       |
                 |       |
                 |       |
                 |       |
----------------+|   |   |+-------
                ||   |   ||
                |+---|---+|
                /    |    \
               /    / \    \
              +-------------+
                     ^----------that's supposed to be a long, thin wedge...
	After:
                 |       |
                 |       |
                 |       |
                 |       |
----------------+|       |+-------
                ||   |   ||
                ||   |   ||
                //   |   \\
               //   / \   \\
              +-------------+

    You might also post this note in MOMAX1::ANITQUES_AND_COLLECTIBLES
    They are people who repair furniture who follow that conference
    and may be able to offer some pointers.
    

    
    Have you tried "chair-lok" its a glue-like product specifically
    for reconnecting rungs, back slats, etc.  Usually it works when
    other glues fail.
    
    deb
    

    I have just gotten a small chair that was hand made out of 1" diameter
    tree branches.  The seat of the chair is caned and I want to put 
    something on the chair itself and the caning to protect it.  Any
    suggestions?
    
    Thanks

    Try looking in MOMAX1::ANTIQUE_COLLECTIBLES.  There are some
    discussions about how to cane a chair in that conference.  There are
    not any discussions about how to maintain a caned chair yet. There are
    two keywords you might want to use in that conference,
    REFINISHING-REPAIR and CANING-UPHOLSTERY. 
    
    Hit keypad 7 to add it to your notebook. 

    I am interested in having a wing back chair either reupholstered or
    having a cover made for it.  I know the cost of reupholstery depends
    on the type of fabric you choose, but I was wondering if anyone could 
    tell me approximately how much it would cost to reupholster or cover 
    my chair with a moderate costing fabric.
    
    Thanks for any help!
    
    Susan  

    
    $200 and up for a good job. Maybe cheaper, but you usually get what
    you pay for. Sometimes it's cheaper to just replace it. My mom was
    looking into having her sofa reupholstered. It was cheaper for her
    to buy a comperable sofa from the same manufacturer (Broyhill) then
    to have her's reupholstered. She couldn't buy the same model from
    Broyhill as she owns because they discontinued that model 5 years
    ago.
    
    Mike

    Also try  MOMAX1::ANTIQUE_COLLECTIBLE.  Use keyword caning-upholstery.
    I believe the note also discusses sources for upholstery.  
    
    As you indicated, the material used to cover the piece can effect
    the price considerably.  Upholstery fabric starts about $8 a yard
    and goes up to $35+ a yard last time I checked.  When you figure
    a wingback would take probably 5-6 yards, the price can escalate
    quickly.  
    
    Ask to see some other work by the upholster.  How well they do the
    work can have a large effect on the look of the finished job.
    

    Also check MOMAX1::ANTIQUE_COLLECTIBLE.  Try keyword
    REFINISHING-REPAIR.  The readership of that conference is concerned
    about maintaining the value while still providing a usable finish.
    
    There is some discussion about the difference methods of repairing
    the finish depending on whether is is shellac or varnish and how
    to tell the difference.
    
    Hit keypad 7 to add MOMAX1::ANTIQUE_COLLECTIBLE to your notebook.

    If re-upholstering is too expensive, and you don't want to buy a
    new chair, consider slipcovers.  My Mom had her couch fitted with
    a slipcover, and you would never know it wasn't the original fabric.
    They come to your home, measure, then come back when the cover is
    complete.  They don't need to take the piece of furniture with them,
    so you don't lose seating. 
    
    Sarah
      

    
    I've looked through the interior paint index and can't
    find anything about furniture painting.
    
    I am painting new oak wall unit.  I like to have light
    yellow color just like you see the nature oak color every where
    in the office.
    
    My problem is once I paint it with polyurethane or sand sealer,
    the color turned to light brown.
    
    How can I have a good looking light color oak finish.  Does
    sanding turn the color lighter?  One noter mentioned Lynch
    brand sand sealer is best,  where I can buy it?

    
    I've had not problems getting the oak furniture I've stained (which
    is about 10 pieces) to stay a nice lite oak. I've use Minwax. I've
    tried others, but I've gotten different results, so I've stayed
    with Minwax for a consistance result. First put a clear stain on
    or a light-oak stain. Then apply about 2 or 3 coats of polyurethain.
    Sand between coats with 000 steelwool. Then again when finished.
    
    Mike

I won't lock this, because I'm not sure exactly what you want, but I think the 
information you're looking for is likely to be cataloged under 1111.113 - 
WOOD_FINISHES.

Paul

    
     How about another question on pine?
    
     I have 3/4 tounge and grove knotty pine on the four outside walls.I
    am using Cabot's 911 stain wax as a finish. The color is birch white.
     
     The problem is that the stain does not seem to penatrate the knots in
    the pine well and the finished look is a bit blotchy.
    
      Should I seal the wood first? What should I be using to seal it?
    
       			Wayne

    I'd like to stain a small oak bookcase a darker color.  The written
    material from the manufacturer describes the current very light finish
    as "plasticized".  Any idea if sanding will remove this well enough so
    the wood will take a dark stain, or if not, what might remove it? 
    Thanks.
    

    Two places you might want to check are
    
    MOMAX1::ANTIQUE_COLLECTIBLE
    DELNI::WOODWORKING_AND_TOOLS

    Both of these conferences handle the subject of wood finishes. 
    The first repairing/changing existing finishes and the second with
    new finishes.
    
    Keypad 7 will only allow one conference to be associated so I choose
    the first.
   

	BACKGROUND:

    	This NOTE is the closest to my problem, so, I will stick this here. 
    I have a dining room (everyday usage but 1920s vintage) set that I
    refinished about 10 years ago with a Poly material.  It has held up
    like a charm UNTIL my youngest decided to try popping some microwave
    popcorn WITHOUT reading the directions.  Well, when it didn't work in
    30 seconds, he stuck BAG AND ALL in a pan on the stove and tried
    popping it.  Well, you can guess what a mess that was making as the pan
    heated.  So, he yanked the pan off the stove as it started smoking and
    headed for the back door.  In the process, he had to open the door.  To
    do this, he sat the pan down on the edge of the table.  This
    IMMEDIATELY bubbled the poly in a spot about 4 inches in diameter.  I
    have totally refinished furniture before and that is no problem.  I
    have also done the melting of lacquer surfaces and redo with the
    original lacquer for antiques.  But, this is my first experience with
    redo on poly.  So, :

    	NOW THE QUESTION:
    Is it possible to just remove the finish for a small area around this
    section and then fill just this area with the poly material or will I
    have to do the whole top of the table again?  If I can do just this
    small area, what is the recommended stripping method and material and
    what type of feathering of the edges is suggested?  How noticeable will
    a small repair be?  I don't want to try the small area method if it is
    going to stick out like a sore thumb.  If it can't be done in a manner
    that is going to look right and last, I will just redo the table top
    since flat surface stripping and finishing is no big thing (HATE those
    scrollwork legs, though).  So, recommendations as to small area repair
    vs. doing the whole table top are requested.?.?.?

    I am planning on refinishing my Dining Room Chairs which are made of
    Teak.  Does anyone have any recommendations as to what kits to buy or
    not to buy or any other helpful hints?  Someone had mentioned that it
    might be cheaper to send them out to be professionally refinished.  If
    that be the case, does anyone have any recommendations for the
    Merrimack, NH area?
    
    Thanks in advance.
    Sonia

    I forgot to mention if this already exists - please tell me how to 
    use keywords or find it otherwise.
    
    Thanks,
    Sonia

There's several questions here, and several existing answers in a number of 
places.  To find out how to remove the existing finish, see note 1111.71.  To 
find out how to add a new one, see note 1111.113.  And to find someone to do 
it, well, see note 2000 sometime later this week.

You could also check the file DELNI::WOODWORKING_AND_TOOLS.

Paul
<standard write-lock message follows>

This note has been temporarily write-locked pending approval of the author.

To the author:  This subject is already under discussion in this file, under the
topics listed in the title.  Please look at these notes; you may find that your
question is already answered, or you may find a note where your question would
be an appropriate continuation of the discussion.  Note that since nearly
everyone uses NEXT UNSEEN to read notes, your question will get the same
exposure whether it is a response to a two-year-old note or it is its own new
note. These topics were found using the keyword directory (note 1111), and you
may find other notes relating to this subject by examining the directory
yourself. 

We do, however, welcome new notes if they explore a specific aspect of a 
problem that may be under general discussion.  And this moderator has been 
known to make mistakes. :^)  So if after examining these notes, you wish to 
continue the discussion here, send me mail.

Paul [Moderator]

    Also check out MOMAX1::ANTIQUE_COLLECTIBLE for additional information
    about refinishing.  Use the keyword REFINISHING-REPAIR.
    
    Hit keypad 7 to add MOMAX1::ANTIQUE_COLLECTIBLE to your notebook.

    I would appreciate any info regarding where I could take a cain chair
    (Breyer chair style) that needs a new cain seat.
    Goegraphical location: somewhere around the Nashua N.H. area or as
    close to.
    
    If this request is in the wrong area, moderator, please feel free to
    move it to the proper location!
    
    Thankyou,
    Shelley

This note has been temporarily write-locked pending approval of the author.

To the author:  This subject is already under discussion in this file, under the
topics listed in the title.  Please look at these notes; you may find that your
question is already answered, or you may find a note where your question would
be an appropriate continuation of the discussion.  Note that since nearly
everyone uses NEXT UNSEEN to read notes, your question will get the same
exposure whether it is a response to a two-year-old note or it is its own new
note. These topics were found using the keyword directory (note 1111), and you
may find other notes relating to this subject by examining the directory
yourself. 

We do, however, welcome new notes if they explore a specific aspect of a 
problem that may be under general discussion.  And this moderator has been 
known to make mistakes. :^)  So if after examining these notes, you wish to 
continue the discussion here, send me mail.

Paul [Moderator]

    A company called KenCo in Norwood,Mass sells replacement cane seats
    for Breur chairs at I beleive $12 a peice.  They accept mailorders
    over the phone......we are pleased with our 3 year old replacements.
    
    I beleive they have light and dark oak finishes available.
    

    Now that I have found the *appropriate* place to put this...
    
    Anyone know where I could find someone to replace the caning of a 
    Breur chair seat in the southern New Hampshire area?
    I would rather someone else tackle this than I.
    
    You can send the information to HYSTER::WINNIMAN
    
    Thanks,
    Shelley

		Country Cane & Rush Shop - Paula McCoy
		Deerfield, NH           603 / 463-7016

		did the seat of a rocking chair for us.
		cost about $50 if i remember right.
		might pick up and deliver.  
		returned our chair to me at ZKO.

    I just completed a prewoven seat for a rocker. The materials cost me
    about  $25. I did learn quite a bit during the process. It's not
    particularily difficult, just takes time.

    Does anyone know if the "dipping" method is harmful to glass?  I have
    some windows that have several coats of paint on them, and want to take
    them out and have them dipped, rather than scraping.  I would assume
    the dipping would require re-caulking, but how about etching the glass?
    
    Sarah
    

    
    The solution is a mild acid. It could hurt the glass. 
    
    Mike

re .-1:

There aren't a lot of acids that etch glass -- think about what acids
are usually stored in.  Besides, I thought they use a strong base (lye
or something) rather than a weak acid.

Why don't you call a few stripping places and ask if glass is affected?

    I recently went looking for a strip operation to take several layers
    of paint off a circa 1910 telephone table and chair.  I found out
    that, thanks to new environmental protection legislation regarding
    the disposal of used stripping chemicals, many strippers will not
    now accept painted furniture for stripping, but will accept furniture
    with other types of finish.
    
    pbm
    

RE: .9

We had our front door stripped of paint (lead paint?) about 1 year
ago at Jolly Tar in Chelmsford, MA.  The door does have some glass
and it was not effected.  If you live any where near there, you might
want to check them out.

-Amy

    After a search for this topic......
    
    What is the best way to paint wicker furntiure?
    
    I recently acquired a set in dire need on repainting and have
    considered using a Wagner Spraypainter with an acrylic based paint. 
    Has anyone had any experience doing this?...Is the sprayer a good idea
    or should I stick to a brush?...Is a latex gloss an alternative?
    
    Thanks...KC

    For the lack of a better note....
    
    My dad just made a good looking table he'd like to use in the kitchen,
    where it would take _some_ abuse, like a normal kitchen table.  Right
    now, it's unfinished.  He'd like to stain it, then polyurethane it a
    few times.  The only problem....he made the table out of spruce 2x8's.
    Spruce is relatively soft, so what would be the best finish, or
    combination of finishes to give it the hardest surface possible, yet
    still be "safe"?  Flat poly then gloss?  Or?
    
    Thanx.
    
    Gene
    

You don't want a really hard finish - you want a FLEXIBLE finish.  Nothing you
do to the wood - short of those 1/4" thick epoxy finishes - is going to harden
it enough to keep it from denting.  You want to make sure that the finish will
flex with the wood instead of shattering.  Shellac, for example, is fairly
brittle.

I think that polyurethane is one of your best choices.  I made a table for my
parents out of pine when I was in 8th grade, and put a poly finish on it.  It
has received severe abuse, but the finish has not cracked nor separated from
the surface of the table.

Paul

    I feel like I have put this in here before, maybe I read it here.
    
    Anyway, flat poly is gloss poly with silica in it.  That is why the
    instructions say to stir the can while applying.  The silica gives it a
    semi-pebbled finish, smooth to touch, but rough to light particles. 
    The rough finish looks not glossy because of the broken up light. 
    Since there is additional material in flat finish besides poly, it is
    not as strong as gloss poly.  
    
    It has been recommended if you are going to apply several coats, make
    all but the last coat, gloss.  Then apply the flat as the last coat to
    give the finish you want.  I would recommend using the same brand of
    poly for all coats to avoid any possible problems with bonding
    incompatiblities.   It goes without saying, except in this case ;^),
    that you would sand or steel wool between coats to provide a rough
    surface to adhere to.
    
    I used poly on an aromatic cedar chest and I feel that the poly has
    helped protect the soft cedar from dings and dents.  
    

    Does that mean that colored poly is not as strong as clear?  I've got
    some white colored poly paint that I was going to be using on some
    maple, but if clear is stronger, I'll use that...
    
    Willie

>                        It goes without saying, except in this case ;^),
>    that you would sand or steel wool between coats to provide a rough
>    surface to adhere to.

      Read the directions that come with your poly or are on the can. It
      may not be necessary to sand if you re-coat  within  a  relatively
      short  time, like ~24-36 hrs.  The reason is that in this time the
      poly has not compleletly "cured". It is still soft enough that the
      next coat can stick to it.  
      
      Also, you may find that if you try to sand without waiting several
      days that sanding makes a mess of the incompletely cured  surface.
      
      Of  course  if  you re-finish after the original coat is fully dry
      you will need to sand.

    
    Between coats of polyurehtane I usually sand with 000 or 0000
    steelwool. Works great. Just make sure that you wipe it down, or vacuum
    it real good before you apply the next coat.
    
    Mike

    
    I just used regular spray paint from a can, and it worked great. I
    wouldn't use a brush.

	
	I am planing on buying a unfinished Dresser for my bedroom. This 
dresser is of some light colored wood. (rather yellowish color more like Oak). 
My current bed and head board's are of Teak finish (slightly darker). I was 
wondering whether I can stain the dresser to match the bed color. I have 
absolutely no experience in applying stains or Varnish etc. I would very much 
appreciate any suggestions about whether this is possible, does it involve lot 
of work and any perticular type of stain or varnish I should use to get this 
desired finish.

-- srini

Not that this question is inappropriate here, but you may get more expertise in
DELNI::WOODWORKING_AND_TOOLS.

Paul

    
    .0
    
        The dresser is prob. pine. Oak in it's natural state is not really 
    yellow but has more of a clear to red hue. Pine unfinished with age
    will have a yellow appearence. Teak unlike pine is dark and has a high 
    oil content. Finishing is not a big deal. If you take your time you
    should be able to get prof. results.
    
     First things first, Stay away from that crap they sell as a
    refinishing kit. You wont get good results from it and it's finish is
    not durable enough for pine, (Pine being a soft wood). Experament with
    some stains on the back of the dresser or a hidden side to obtain the 
    matching color. Apply evenly with a soft cloth being sure to overlap
    swipes. Wipe with the grain to prevent lap marks and smudging. 
    
    Let dry 24 hours and apply one THIN coat of polyurithayn. Make sure the
    first coat is cut 1/2 miniral spirits and 1/2 urithayn. This will give
    a good base coat for the other un-cut 2 top coats. Sand with 220 grit
    sand paper lightly and with the grain beetween coats. 3 coats is all
    that should be needed. A semie gloss is exceptable. Remember when
    appling urithayn to apply very thin and with the grain of the wood. 
    Do not get swirl the brush on the bresser or in the can, this will
    create air bub. that will effect the final results. 
    
    Good luck.....
    
    
    Matthew.......
    

 0.2 -
	Thanks for the reply. I have never bought any kind of stains. Can you 
give me some suggestions about what to look for. May be a brand name and the 
stain type etc. Do they have some thing that specifically says "teak finish"?

thanks again

-- srini

    .3
    
    
         No, you cant buy a stain called Teak finish. The best thing to do
    is take a draw from existing teak furniture and bring it to the h/w
    store and they will set you up with a # of stains that you can mix
    together in order to obtain a matching color. 
    
     The bast stain available to the consumer today that is available in a
    h/w store is Minwax. I'm sure you have heard of it. It's oil based wich
    has better penetraiting ability and wont raise the grain like water
    based stains. 
    
      If you do not succeed with this a proffesional will be glad to mix
    dispersions in a base stain and it will match your teak perfect. This
    can be done by most local refinishers. If you live in Mass. A good and
    reasonable refinisher is Acton refinishing, located in Acton Mass. Ask
    for Tom. I used to work for him years ago before moving to Colorado. 
    
    
    Let me know how you made out.....
    
    
    Matthew......

>>         No, you cant buy a stain called Teak finish. The best thing to do
    
    Wanna Bet!!!!!
    
    Several companies make a Teak Finish stain. Now wether it matches is a
    different story.
    
    Mike

    
    RE. .5
    
              Mike, your 100% correct. Chances of it matching are next to
    nul. #1 just because it's teak wood wont mean it's finished in a teak 
    stain, in fact it seldom is, 2nd, If the teak is finished in a "teak
    stain" it wont take the same appearence to pine as to teak. Different
    woods look different when stained with the same color stain due to the
    make up of the wood (Hardwood, softwood, pourse, non-pourse)......
    
    I have never seen a stain called Teak. If there is, it's new to me.....
    
    
    
    Matthew......
    

    Of course, there is also Teak Oil, which is almost red.  It's usually
    used on Teak (funny thing, eh?), and it basically absorbed by the wood
    without leaving a sticky finish.
    
    Behlen's sells it by the quart.
    
    Rich
    

    Where can Behlen's products be purchased in the central Mass. area? I
    know they are available mail order (through Garrett-Wade), but would
    like to save the shipping. (I know there are other tung oils available,
    but I am also looking to purchase some other Behlen's products.)
    
    thanks
    
    Joseph
    

    Sorry for the late response - too busy to read notes these days..
    
    All the Behlens products I have bought were by mail.  I think the
    woodworking place in Cambridge might have some - I forget the name -
    check around this file.
    
    Rich
    

    Not Central Ma. but Woodcraft in Stoneham carries Behlens prducts.
    
    George

    I painted a rather dirty and moldy wicker basinet with cheap "Krylon"
    spray paint.  I think I ended up using three cans and putting on around
    five coats.  Many coats are needed to hit it from the various angles so
    that all the crevices are covered, while preventing soaking and running.

    The result was excellent.  I think it was a gloss (I hate gloss because
    of the difficulty getting a smooth finish), but it looked very pleasing,
    and is solid and easy to clean.

    I can't imagine trying to use a brush.  You're liable to have problems with
    globs and drips of paint, and the bristles could get stuck in wedge-shaped
    cracks and get pulled out (at least if you use a cheap brush like I would
    buy :-).

    I paint wicker baskets all the time (home business) and I find that
    the Krylon spray paint is very watery and you need to use much more
    than normal.  I find the best spray paint is called EverLast made by
    Touraine, it's a water-based enamel and goes on much better than
    Krylon.  It's slightly more expensive than Krylon but worth it.  They
    have many colors and comes both matte and glossy.
    
    My  $.02
    
    Susan

We have been looking and looking for replacement hardware for a pair 
of trundle beds that we purchased used.  There is NO manufacturer
information anywhere on the beds.

We need one dozen, 5/16" X 2.5" Cross Dowel Joint Sets.
Cross Dowel Joint Sets are more commonly refered to as Barrel Nuts
and Bolts!  The 5/16" X 2.5" bolt (with slotted head) is very common,
but the 5/16" Barrel Nut has been IMPOSSIBLE to find.

Trendlines, the catalog outlet place, actually carries a 1/4" barrel nut, 
and I found a specialty wood shop that also carrired the 1/4" barrel nuts,
but neither was able to obtain the 5/16" size.  We understand this is a 
popular European fastner. 

If anyone out there can help, we would be very happy.

Thanks!   Paul Gallo

    You might also post this in the European notesfile DIY.  It used to be
    on BURYST:: but you can check VTX EASYNOTES for exact node name.

Another approach would be to make your own; or have them made for you.  I would
imagine the stock for the nuts themselves would be pretty easy to obtain.  All
you would need to do is cross drill it, tap it, and cut it to length.  (The
hardest part would be drilling the stock, a drill press is the right tool to
use.)

You might also have some luck with industrial supply houses.  Many carry a wide
variety of fasteners.

- Mark

    
    If the diameter of the 1\4 inch nuts is the same just re-drill, and tap
    those for the 5/16 thread.
    
    You may also want to try Woodworkers Supply in Cambridge, MA.  They
    carry a pretty good asortment of European hardware. I have seen crib
    harware kits there along with some other oddball stuff.

    
    woodworker's supply is actually known as The woodworker's store.
    They are on Mass. Ave. in Cambridge, Ma.
    
    Why did I put Woodworker's supply? Maybe in a former life.
    
    They can be found in the Boston yellow pages.
    
    Sorry for any confusion.
    
    
    TPV

There are two kinds of cane-bottom chairs.

The hard-to-fix, which are chairs with a series of holes drilled around the 
outer perimeter of the seat.  In that case, individual strips of cane are 
literally woven into the chair.

The easy-to-fix, whch are chairs with a groove around the outer perimeter of 
the seat.  In that case repair is very similar to replacing a screen.  It 
sounds like that's what you have. The caning is really just a sheet of woven 
material held in place by a strip of wood pounded into the groove.

To fix it, get a chisel the width of the groove and get everything out of the
groove, including the glue in the bottom.  Then trim the caning "cloth" to 
approximately the right size (wet it?  I don't recall) and tap it down into 
the groove using hardwood wedges to hold it in place.  Then glue up a strip of 
wood and pound it in on top of the cane.  The first time I did this it took
me two hours to do a chair.  The next time it will take only about 45 minutes.
$40 is way too much to pay for a do-it-yourself job like this.  It isn't even
really "recaning".

Supplies and instructions for doing all this are available (at very reasonable
prices) from The Caning Shop, Mass. Ave (just north of Porter Square), Cambridge
telephone 617-547-3054. 

If you have the hard-to-fix kind of chair, your best bet is to sign up for
classes at the caning shop..  My wife just caned a very large chair seat that 
had been estimated as a $400 job for $90 class fee plus $50 in materials and 
she was supervised every step of the way by world-class caners.  These guys do 
work for museums and fancy decorators and dealers and they're real good 
teachers.

You can also find caning supplies and books in the Constantine's and other 
woodworking catalogs.  And you may find adult-education classes in caning.
It may seem like a long way to go to get caning, but the next closes place
that does provides these services is in California (and the Cambridge folks
say they're better than the Californians).  Moat of them are blind, by the way.

Actually, I used a gouge, not a chisel, to clean out the groove.

    Don't know if this has been covered in other replies, but the Perkins
    School for the Blind in Watertown MA teaches caning to blind persons as
    a vocation. They used to look for chairs to practice on. Cost was
    minimal, waiting period was long. The benefit was a good job and it was
    teaching someone to be more self sufficient. Maybe contact them...

I have finally located the cross dowel sets!

The Woodworkers Store in Cambridge, Mass. referred me to their store in 
Arlington Heights, Illinois, who in turn referred me to...

Craftsman Wood Service Company
1735 W. Cortland Court
Addison, Illinois
708-629-3100

They have cross dowel joint sets in dozens of sizes/styles etc.

Many thanks to all who have replied to my Note.
Paul

    This seemed like the most appropriate place for this query:
    
    I just had a lead paint inspection done due to relocation. The guy that
    did the inspection asked if we had ever done anything to the wood 
    (window trim, banister on basement stairs, etc. - not painted). My wife
    said that the only thing we had done was to clean it, as in Murphy's
    Oil. He said that they used to use lead in polyurethane/shellac/varnish
    'in the old days' (our house is 29 years old). I'd never heard of this.
    Does this guy know what he's talking about? We haven't gotten the
    results of his testing yet, but I was wondering.
    
    Thanks.

    re: .4
    Lead in VARNISH?!?  I seriously doubt it.  They used white lead
    for pigment in white paint - perhaps red lead for pigment in
    red paint, I'm not sure - and no doubt added tinting colors to
    get other shades.  But the point is, as far as I know lead was
    an opaque pigment material, nothing that could conceivably go
    into a varnish.  I'm open to correction, but that's my understanding.

I've seen the possibility mentioned somewhere in this notesfile -- probably
a lead paint note.  I hope it's not true -- our whole downstairs has natural
woodwork, and I'd hate it to be ruined by deleading, should we ever need to
do it.

    I just recently purchased a used upright piano for $200.  The original
    wood had been stained and then painted over at least once.  I called 
    around to get it stripped and stained professionally, yet the best price
    was $600 with comments that it is an extremely difficult task.
    
    I need suggestions on tackling this beast.  
    Best way to strip?
    Should I take keys off and how to do that?
    Do I take anything else off?
    Recommendations on straining and using urathane or lacquer?
    
    Thanks
    
    John
     

$600 is a real good price.  Take it.

I have a 1905 Kroger upright that I bought for $150.  When we called in a
piano tuner this summer, she remarked that it had been such a beautiful
piano and ought to be refinished.  Under five(!) coats of paint is some
wonderful stained red mahogany.  The estimate for refinishing: $1500.  She
said that after spending the $1500 it would be worth $2000 or so.

We borrowed some piano repair books from the library, and I took the piano
apart, carefully measuring every screw with a screw guage and marking where
every part came from.  My wife took the smaller parts down to Goodwill, and
they did a nice refinishing job.

The reason that I suggest that you pay to have it done: the bulk of the
piano is still sitting on my enclosed back porch, waiting to be stripped.
It's a monumental task.  Send me mail in six months or so and I'll let you
know if we've made any progress.

     
    A friend of mine refinished his Grand piano. It came out beautiful.
    Took him about 3 weeks working a couple of hours after work. $600
    dosn't sound too bad for that kind of a job. How good is the quality of
    work these people do. If you want to do it yourself, take apart as much
    of the piano as you can. You shouldn't have to remove the keys. You
    will probably have to remove the pedals. I've found a product called
    5f5 to be the best for stripping. 
    
    Mike

    
    It isn't hard to remove the keys on most pianos. Look for and remove
    the screws holdingthe key lid in place. If you take enough out you will
    find that the keys simply lift out. You will find that each key is
    resting over some metal pegs that help guide them. Remember to keep all
    of them in the proper order. Even if they look the same they are all
    adjusted to the exact position of the pegs that they ride on.
    
    	Every piano that I have ever seem will come apart, if not easily,
    with the removal of enough screws. Get a good paint stripper and
    slather it on. Don't remove it until all of the paint and varnish
    beneath is gone. If necessary re-apply more stripper *over* the old
    until this occurs.
    
    	A light sanding with fine sandpaper might be desirable before
    staining. Make sure that you buy enough stain to do the entire piano.
    Rather return the extra to the store than risk having to buy more from
    a different batch. The color may not quite match. Also test stain an
    out of sight area to make certain that you like the new stain.
    
    	When you choose your finish make sure that you apply it in a dust
    free area. We made this mistake on a piano that we refinished. We did
    it in the basement. Every time someone walked on the floor over the
    freshly varnished wood some dust fell on it. 
    
    	If you are really nuts try tung oil. You need to hand rub in about
    10 coats, but the results are fabulous. The first few coats won't look
    like much, but after the 7th coat or so you can start to see "depth" in
    the grain. BTW this isn't really that hard to do, it requires patience
    more than any "elbow grease".
    
    	Remember that some areas of the piano are more important than
    others. This is because you won't see all of the piano most of the
    time. If you have it crammed into a corner, the side facing the corner
    won't show as much. You may want to take advantage of the when testing
    stain, or when you start a part of the project that you are not sure
    of. The most important parts are those that are at eye level. This is
    where you will most readily notice mistakes.
    
    		good luck!
    		Mark

I have four Atrium doors on my house.  One double was installed about 6 years
ago and a double and two singles were installed about 3 years ago.

The bottom board on the newer double is actually rotting, and there appears to
be some sort of brown mold/fungus growing out of it, not unlike what one can
find on rotting birch trees.

I have always maintained these doors - hence, only one out of the four is
exhibiting this.  Do you have any ideas as to treatment and/or recourse?

Thanks,
Pete

    Thanks for the input.  I'll be picking up the piano this weekend and
    have already read the note on moving a piano so I'll heed that advice.
    
    Sounds like it will take some time for this refinishing project,
    however, my wife wants it ready by  next weekend for a party.  Luckily
    we just had a baby so I'm up all night anyway.  
    
    John

    Congraulations on the baby! (me too!)
    
    I hope that you can do the refinishing in a way that will avoid having
    the baby get any of the fumes!
    
    
    The following probably go without saying, but...
    
    	- Use strippers stains etc... in *WELL VENTILATED* room. 
    		The fumes from any room in the house could eventually 
    		spread through the house unless you do this.
    
    	- Change your work clothes before going near the baby.
    
    	- wash hands thouroughly as well.
    
    		regards,
    		Mark
    
    

    One other thing...
    
    	If your wife is breast feeding use the same precautions with her
    too!
    
    

    You mean that you should:
    
    Change your clothes before going to see your wife?
    
    Have good ventilation around your wife?
    
    Wear heavy gloves and work clothes when you see your wife?
    
    
    Your Wife sounds like one tough "cookie"!!!!
    
    Hey...just kidding.
    
    Marc H.

Make sure you keep the stripper (and all liquids) well away from the
strings.  According to our piano tuner/rebuilder, wet strings are ruined
strings.  Also, *DO NOT* attempt to remove the strings, or to remove the
sounding board from the piano.  (To understand the strength of piano
strings, you need only know that they used to wrap battleship guns with
piano wire for strength).

    
    I'm not sure if this the right file for this topic so feel free to move
    it Mr moderator.
    
    We have a dining room table thats not formica, this past Thanksgiving
    my wife placed some warm pans on the table.  When we removed the
    tablecloth to our horror there were were white milky spots all over the
    table.  I think maybe the laquer/varnish finish has burned is there any
    easy fix for this problem.
    
    	Thanx in advance Al.
    

If its not formica, I presume its some hardwood.

You could take some wood ashes from a fireplace, and mix with a bit 'o
water to make a paste. Rub some of this around those areas. As a
precaution, after rubbing for a second or two and periodically, stop
and wipe the area to make sure its doing what you want to do. This is
an old technique that I've heard of and used in the past, but I'm not
sure if it works on all finishes or all woods...

Good luck!

    
    You can also try NOTED::WOODWORKING_AND_TOOLS for some tips. I am
    sure something of this nature must have been talked about before.
    
     I never let my wife serve meals w/o the table pad on the table.
    I don't think she would anyways. Not worth taking the chance. Sorry
    to hear about your misfortune. :>(

    I know this is going to sound strange but it works, try taking some 
    hand creme, a small amount and rub it over the stained area, you may
    need to do this a few times, but it will remove the discoloration of
    the finish.
    
    Try it, it really works.
    
    Kathie

    
       My vote is for the ashes.  Almast everything in my house is maple
    and sevral people that visit my house smoke (including me).  My mom
    taught me this trick and it works wonderfuly for almost everything.  I
    use cigerette ash with water and I've taken out those nasty white marks
    with no problem, it also works well on small (light) burns it your wood
    (like from a cigerette or incense).
    
    
    					David

    Well I made my commitment and finished the piano on X-mas eve.  It was
    a pain in the butt, however, after I scraped off the 5 COATS of paint
    and saw a beautiful mahogany base it gave me incentive to continue on.
    Its a 1923 Chickering Brothers of Chicago piano.  Anyone ever hear of
    this type piano?
    
    Lessons I learned:
    1) Take as much of piano apart as possible.
    2) Get a good stripper and let the stripper do the work, not your arm.
    3) Take your time and don't rush it.
    
    Thanks for words of wisdom, now I'm the expert.
    
    John

    I have a 1931 Chickering 6 foot babygrand that I stripped three years
    ago.  I used Homer Formbees stripper and steel wool.  took me about
    three weeks part time.  I finsished it with tong oil (which I am not
    sure was a mistake or not).  I gave it three coates and gave up.  It
    does look real nice (compared to what it did look like) but I never
    got that deep high gloss finish I would have liked to.  Maybe its time
    to put a few more coates on.  It was a LOT OF WORK!!!
    
    BRUCE MAY                                  

    
    With Tung oil 3 coats isn't enough. You need about 10 coats to get a
    real nice highgloas shine. Howeve if you're using Formbees tung oil,
    then 3 coats may be enough. Formbees Tungoil has polyurethaine in it.
    
    Mike

    I second reply .11
    
    Three coats is not enough. When I did a table I didn't start noticing
    any real gloss untill about the 6th coat. After that it got better and
    better. Ther results were definately worth it!
    
    	I am not sure why you feel it is so much work. When I did it I had
    the table set up in a room where it did not need to be disturbed. Ever
    night after work I gave it a quick rubdown with tung oil, just enough
    to wet all surfaces, then left it alone. There was no heavy rubbing or
    anything like that. 
    
    	On thing I did learn is that it is important to use "fresh" tung
    oil. I used some old left over tung oil to improve the finish afer a
    few years of use. The oil had thickened slightly and did not go on
    evenly.
    
    					Mark

Tung oil is the kind of finish that needs to be "maintained."

You need at least 6 - 10 coats to get a real good base, and then you need to
"refresh" the finish every year or so.

I agree with .12 and .11 ...  3 coats won't do it.

Tung oil is ok as far as easy finishes go, but for good furniture (like a grand
piano) I would recommend laquer.

Bob

    
    
       Pete,
    
            I had a simular problem with one of my doors, I beleive
        that it was due to the rain splashing up from my deck because
        it was only the bottom ten inches that had the fungis. I used
        bleach to kill the fungis, and then scrubbed the door down
        before putting another sealer on the exterior.  The bleach
        worked great, you can actualy see it killing the bacteria.
    
             Scott

Scott,

Thanks!  I'll give it a shot.  The Atrium guy is coming, hopefully to tell me
how his company can help me with a new door - the bottom rail is really gone. 
I may wind up SOL because the painter didn't paint the bottom surface of the
door, which is covered with weatherstripping that we didn't think you were
supposed to paint!

Pete

    I have seen epoxy covered tables with shells or other things
    in the expoxy. Has anyone had experience epoxying a large piece
    that that. Do you have any recommendations on how to do it?
    
    thanks  
    
    Bob Desmarais

    
    	This is quite possibly in the wrong place.  After looking through
    the topic listing and using countless keywords I have given in to just
    adding another one.  Moderator, feel free to move this to the right
    place.
    
    I have a solid pine pole bed. The wood is unfinished except for some
    white-wash.  The problem is, it has been in storage in the desert for 2
    months and the wood has started to crack.  I want to somehow fix this
    and remove the white wash so I can finish it in a natural stain.
    
    How can I accomplish this within a reasonable budget?
    
    virginia

    Well Virginia, this probably isn't any worse than any other place to 
post this request....thanks for looking though! (Vic, as moderator...) 8^)
    
>    I have a solid pine pole bed. The wood is unfinished except for some
>    white-wash.  The problem is, it has been in storage in the desert for 2
>    months and the wood has started to crack.  I want to somehow fix this
>    and remove the white wash so I can finish it in a natural stain.
    
    Not sure whata pine pole bed is, but I am guessing it is small round 
logs used in the construction? Whole pine trees that were stripped of bark 
and used for rails, headboard, etc? 3-5" thick maybe? 

    Storing furniture in the desert will never do it any good.....the lack
of humidity will dry wood beyond belief, down to less that 2-3% whereas
good ole New England averages 8% or higher.....Dryness = cracks in wood
every time...... Your wood is not(probably!) weakened by the cracks, it
just adds character to the wood. At least that is what my wife tells me
about the lines in my face.... (add more smiley faces here!) the cracks
will close slightly if introduced back into a moister cliimate, probably
Seattle WA would close them completely! 

    Not sure how to remove the whitewash, but I would think any pain 
stripper would cut through it quickly for you. Use gloves, eye protection, 
and one of the 3M pads that look like a kitchen scrubbee to remove the 
paint and smooth the wood as you work it. There are water based strippers 
that work slowly and are safer to use. use toothpicks to clean the cracks 
of any whitewash that gets in there while stripping the bed.

    You can then use any stain and finish you like on the wood once dry and 
clean. To talk to more experts on this subject, go over to 
NOTED::WOODWORKING_AND_TOOLS for more information on woodworking and 
finishing furniture. 

    	Vic

    
    	Thank You Vic,
    
    	I went into the WOODWORKING conference but the first few notes
    express that it was for tools and the uses of.  I will look again.
    
    	I like the thought of going to Seattle to repair the wood the
    natural way, but I work in Tustin, CA.  It has been humid enough lately
    to return petrified wood to its natural state.  Anyhoo, a pine pole bed
    is made from pine logs, quite large ones at that.  I'm not sure if the
    white color is actually paint or just a primer.  It will come off with
    water.
    	I guess what I was trying to find out is, do I need to treat the
    wood before I try to stain it?  I would hate to stain it and find out
    later it should have treated it first. 
    	I'm going to the WOODWORKING conference now to see if there is any
    more information on this.
    
    
    vr
    
    

    
    	I went into the WOODWORKING conference but the first few notes
    express that it was for tools and the uses of.  I will look again.

>>>Yeh, well, we cover a *LOT* of territory over there, including wood 
finishing once we build a project.... 8^)
    
    	I like the thought of going to Seattle to repair the wood the
    natural way, but I work in Tustin, CA.  It has been humid enough lately
    to return petrified wood to its natural state.  Anyhoo, a pine pole bed
    is made from pine logs, quite large ones at that.  I'm not sure if the
    white color is actually paint or just a primer.  It will come off with
    water.
>>>Sounds like one of the 3M� scrubbee type pads with water might just take 
the white off for you without really stripping it with chemicals. Would be 
a lot easier...

>>>Once a piece of wood is going to crack, there is little you can do with 
it to glue it back together. The natural shrinkage of the wood 
circumfentially (did I spell that right?) will tend to create obvious 
cracks without hurting the strength of the wood too badly. They will open 
and close to some degree with the humidity from now on and there is little 
you can do to stop it.

    	I guess what I was trying to find out is, do I need to treat the
    wood before I try to stain it?  I would hate to stain it and find out
    later it should have treated it first. 

>>> a good scrub down with the scrubbee pads or meduim sandpaper should 
prepare it for a stain. If the wood is "case hardened", or surface 
hardened, it may not take stain well, that is, it may not soak into the 
wood as expected. you can check this with a bit of stain in a hidden area 
to see if it looks right to you. If not, you may need to sand a lot more to 
prepare the surface for the stain. or use a stain that is just a surface 
coat that doesn't really sink into the wood but dries on the surface and 
then has a finish applied on top of that. 

    Vic
    

    
    
     The stuff isn't epoxy - it is a thick material very similar to super
    glue called "table top resin"  comes in qt/gals/5 gals
    
    
     Try Defender Industries in New Rochelle, NY (soory don't have the
    phone # handy- they are a marine and plastics supply house)or call some local
    plastics/resins distributors- look in the yellow pages under plastics,
    resins, or fibreglass.
    
     This stuff dries quickwer, faster and cleare than epoxy and it's a lot
    cheaper. You nay want to check at some Hobby/craft places also.

    I would also think that a pre-staining Wood Conditioner might be a
    reasonable application, especially if your stain would be on the dark
    side.  Also one stain that is very trendy today is the white "pickled"
    look. Try the new Minwax "Pastel" line of stains eg. Winter White.
                                                          
    
    Have you thought about not staining it, but just applying  a good
    quality wood oil? I've used Teak Oil on unfinshed Cherry with great
    success.
    
    Lastly, you might want to apply a low sheen thinned down
    polyeurethane(sp?).

    
    
    	I recently bought two stool for the snack bar at my house.
    
    	They are made of ash, but they have wicker seats, I would
    	like satin them .. CAN YOU STAIN WICKER?
    
    	Thanks
    

Depends upon the nature of the wicker and the type of stain. Certainly
a pigmented stain should work. If the wicker isn't already sealed, a
normal wiping stain should work as well.

-Jack

    
    Does anybody know of any lterature, or publication which deals
    with recessed hutches ? We are remodeling the dining room, and 
    the closet is going to become a hutch. Specifically I want to
    place a 36" wide x 24" deep cabinet for the base, add a surface
    (corian or formica) but the rest isnt clear. I am thinking about
    a mirrored back wall, and white side walls. The side walls would come
    out and meet the walls (of the room), clean w/ no mouldings. Glass
    shelves, and perhaps a lighted top. Lastly I would like to add
    glass doors. So my questions are around design ideas  (looking
    for suggestions). And how to attach the glass doors to the top half.
    I have seen all glass doors in hutches, and plan on contacting the
    manufacturer for pricing..
    
    Any help out there ?
    
    Thanks - Bob

    
    
    They make hinges that clamp to glass.  Myself, i'm make
    a small arch frame.  Just enought to give it idenity.
    Recessed light on top with glass shelving and the mirror
    on the back wall sounds good.....
    	-----------------
    	|   /-------\	|
    	|  /    |    \  |
        |  |    |    |  |
       	|  |    |    |  |
    	|  |    |    |  |
       	=================
        |               |
        |   ect.ect..   |     Send $9.99 for plans...:)
    
    JD

    One question that seems to not be answered anywhere.

    I am using gloss poly on my woodwork. (Too late to turn back. See 5173.*) 
    
    The banisters have me worried. Since I know that this wood will be 
    touched a lot, we will probably want to clean & shine it periodically.

    What do you use on poly-finished wood to clean off the oils and dirt
    that can accumulate over time, not to mentioned keeping it shiny? Can 
    you just wash it with soap and water? Can you use furniture polish of 
    some kind? Murphy's oil soap?

    Should I prepare the wood somehow, after the poly, before calling it
    finished?

    Cluelessly,
    Kevin

    What is listed on the can of poly is "glass cleaner".....  it removes
    the dirt/oils rather than covering it with a oily/cleaner 

    I have plans for a childs bed. The plans come in two sections. I should
    tell you it's a race car. The question I have is what is the best way
    to transfer the pattern to the wood? I have ideas but looking for the
    best way. I can't cut the pattern due to other pieces that overlap
    the largest section. 

Why not do it as one would with fabric?  Carbon paper underneath the pattern
and a pattern-transfer roller (toothed wheel that is run along the pattern
line)?

				Steve

    
    Get a wide, soft lead carpenters pencil and mark the line of the pattern
    on the back.  Scribble along the line so you get a lot of carbon on it.
    
    Tape the pattern on to the wood and trace around with a hard pencil
    or wooden stylus, transferring a carbon line to the wood.
    
    Art shops sell a brass rubbing transfer wax which will do the same
    thing, and is less messy.
    
    c
    

       My SIL paints scenery on plywood for her dance shows and uses
       an overhead projector to put the image on the wood.  Of course,
       she needs to make a transparency first.

	Karen

    	I have a pine kitchen set that is drying up and is in need
    of some kind of treatment. It is a light honey color. Also have
    "This End Up" furniture that is in need of same. Ex girl friend
    treated it with something but don't know what. Could it have
    been Tung oil? Any suggestions? 
    
    	Thanks Jay

  1872  GLIVET::RECKARD      13-JAN-1988    12  Pine finishes
  3912  TIPTOE::STOLICNY     30-JUL-1990    14  White-washing/Bleaching Pine

    
    Jay,
    
    "This End Up" sells 'Boiled Linseed Oil' for this purpose.  It costs
    $9.00 a pint.  It should be done several times a year.  I don't know
    what effect the 'boiling' would have.  Does anyone know?
    
    /andy

    We have some "This end up" furniture and we put  Min-Wax Tung oil on it
    every winter right around this time. Not much to do in the winter, we're
    summer people :-)  This End Up used to use Min-Wax tung oil and Min-Wax
    stain on their furniture but now that they're a pretty big company they
    use a their own special Tung oil and stain purchased from Min-Wax and
    repackaged with thier own label.  The cost is significantly more than the 
    than the generic Min-wax products.
    
    	For your Kitchen set, which probably has a some kind of oil finish
    already on it,  I would recommend "Guardsman" furniture polish.  Guardsman
    goes on much much easier allowing you to do the kitcnhed set in about 30
    minutes several time a year.  It doesn't last as long as tung oil but it
    real quick and looks great.  You'll have to search for Guardsman
    furniture polish.  I found it the hardware store at exit 7 on Rte 3 in 
    Nashua NH. (sorry, can't remember the name of the place).   The Tung oil 
    must be put on, rubbed in, allowed to dry, them buffed.  About 4 hrs to do 
    the T.E.U. couch, chair, tv stand, and end table.  It's definitely more
    durable than Guardsman though.

    re: .2
    
    $9.00/pint for boiled lineseed oil is pretty steep.  I expect you
    can get it for a lot less in a hardware store.
    
    As for what the boiling does...as I understand it,which may be wrong...
    
    It's really done in a double boiler, or similar.  That is, the raw
    oil is heated, not boiled.  Heating causes fats and other stuff in
    the oil to rise to the top, where they can be skimmed off.  The result
    is an oil that dries more readily.  Raw linseed oil, because of the
    fats in it, stays kind of gummy virtually forever.
    
    There is nothing particularly awesome about "boiled linseed oil."
    It's certainly not the ultimate finish for wood, by a long shot.
    Other oils, such as tung oil, do just as well if not better.

    One of the regular, grocery store shelf items for furniture polish
    can be used.  One is red oil for dark woods like teak; the other is
    yellow oil for light woods like oak.  This stuff is a top brand name
    that is now escaping me.  Spag's carries it tooo!  It soaks into the
    nice, dry wood and sits there going MORE, MORE, MORE!!!   ;*)

    justme....jacqui

Old English?

    BINGO!!!!

    		Old ENGLISH IS CORRECT

Old English looks like it does a nice job at first, but it's got solvents and
will end up destroying the wood.  Don't use it.

				Steve

    Thanks for the replys. I knew This end up sold there own stuff at
    a high price and asummed it was something available cheaper. I think
    i will try the Tung oil as i have some in the house.
    Steve W. thanks for the explanation of Linsead oil. Often wondered.
    I need to do the outside of my windows this spring. Sounds like the
    raw might be better for outside work.
    
    Thanks Again / J

    RE linseed oil
    
    Somewhere in my hazy memory, I recall that it's either the raw or
    boiled, or maybe both that you have to be careful with.  Specifically,
    make sure you dispose of the rags according to directions.  There have
    been many cases of spontaneous combustion from leaving the rags in a
    pile.  
    
    Ken

    re: .10
    
    Yes...!  I expect it's both.  It really happens.  A friend of mine,
    some years ago, left a linseed-oil-soaked rag in a desk drawer.
    When he opened the drawer a few days later, the bottom of the drawer
    was charred.  The oxidation of the oil (which causes it to harden)
    also generates heat.

    
    I make a habit of immediately disposing, in an outside trash container,
    *any* rag that has absorbed oil of any kind, thinners, oil-based stains
    and paints, etc -- even significant amounts of cooking oil.
    
    Reasons:
    
     o  possibility for spontaneous combustion (eg linseed oil)
    
     o  warnings that such rags can cause fires in clothes dryer (don't
        want a bonb inadvertently added to the laundry cycle)
    

��     <<< Note 5491.12 by WLDBIL::KILGORE "Missed Woodstock -- *twice*!" >>>

��    
��    I make a habit of immediately disposing, in an outside trash container,
��    *any* rag that has absorbed oil of any kind, thinners, oil-based stains
��    and paints, etc -- even significant amounts of cooking oil.

    If you had a yuppie JennAir grill, you wouldn't even have to
    go outside!

    I am thinking of having a rocking chair and wardrobe (two doors, three
    drawers, don't know the exact dimension) stripped.  Any ideas on
    cost?  
    
    Any suggestions on places in the Worcester County Area to take them?
    
    Thanks

    About three years ago I had a solid rock maple drop leaf coffee
    table stripped and refinished by a place in Fitchburg named
    Renaissance Restoration (343-8272).  Not only did they do a
    great job, but they picked up and delivered my table for no
    extra charge.
    
    I recommend them and would call them again in the future.
    
    Good luck!
    
    Judie

	I had an antique pool table refinished by The Village Craftsmen 
	in Grafton. They did a great job. Their number is (508) 839-7777.

	-kg

    There's a guy in Worcester, Ed Fitzgerald I think, who does furniture
    stripping.  He's cheap.  I got some doors done, $28 each.  I had to
    rinse the doors pretty thoroughly afterwards (actually, scrub them)
    to get the residual slime off, but that was pretty easy to do.  If
    you want a finished, cleaned-up job he might not be what you want, but
    if you just want to get the paint off and are willing to do some
    cleanup he's a good possibility.
    I think he's in the Worcester yellow pages under "American Restoration"
    or some such...I may be totally wrong on that name though.  He
    operates (or did) out of an old factory building vaguely near the
    old train station.

I have created a marblized/faux finish to a table top.  To seal the finish and
create the effect of real marble, I purchased a product called Ultra Glo.  This
product simply creates a thick, glossy, glass-like finish when poured onto a
surface.  It is like putting 50 coates or more of polyurethane to seal a surface
(about 1/8 inch thick per pouring).

The result of the pours was excellent once I found a way to get rid of the small
bubbles that plagued the first pours.  However, no matter how well protected,
the surface attracts dust like crazy.  The perfect finish is marred by about 20
to 30 flakes of dust that have settled on the surface and stuck to the finish. 
Due to the depth of the coats, the dust is not loosely attached to the finish. 
They are embedded slightly.

How do I remove these particles and restore the glass-like finish of the
surface?  I do not want to re-pour the surface again.  Is sanding an option? 
If so, would the finish retain any of the sanding scratch marks?

Opinions would be appreciated.

Thank you!

Rick

If the dust flecks are easily visible to you, try rubbing (one, for starters)
lightly with toothpaste. If that doesn't scratch, and also doesn't remove the
imperfection, try a bit of rubbing compound.